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2010 LSV-Wedge Resetable blade fuse


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Happy Memorial everyone. 

Was out the other day and my wedge wouldn't deploy. I popped the panel cover and didn't see a fuse for the wedge. 
As I didn't need it, I ignored it for the time being. 

Did a little digging and, obvioulsy, there is a fuse, but it's a resetable type. Which I wasn't even looking for. 

It had popped, and took the reset. 

I haven't tried it yet, and this was the first time this year I tried to move the wedge.

Could it have popped when installing the batteries this year? 
Is there something else I should look at? 

Secondarily, it's only a 15 amp?! A quick vid I saw on the ol Utube showed an 06? with 30amp. 

Ryan

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Boats that do not have a Lenco control box for the power wedge, instead use the power module to control the power wedge.  Do not replace any of the power module fuses with anything larger than what is listed for that circuit on the decal.

A faulty actuator or a wedge bracket misalignment are the most common causes of a tripped breaker or fuse for the power wedge circuit. 

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Posted (edited)
22 hours ago, csleaver said:

Boats that do not have a Lenco control box for the power wedge, instead use the power module to control the power wedge.  Do not replace any of the power module fuses with anything larger than what is listed for that circuit on the decal.

A faulty actuator or a wedge bracket misalignment are the most common causes of a tripped breaker or fuse for the power wedge circuit. 

OH for sure I wouldn’t change the amp size. That’s obvious. 

Well, resetting the “breaker” didn’t fix it. So something is definitely wrong. 

Time to pull it out and start investigating. 

Any tips. On how to go about testing the actuators by themselves? 

 

EDIT-I see Bakes has a nice PDF on trouble shooting. 
Also, has anyone had any real world issue on using 5 lobe on a 3 lobe system? I do want the gauge to work properly if that matters. I don’t see the 5 lobe wedge control box on Bakes store. 

OK I have the module on the starboard wedge arm. 

 

 

So I’m good there. 

Also, one thing I’ve never understood, what is the “DEPLOY” button for on the MUX button? It’s never done anything. Even before this issue. 

Edited by Ryan1776
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Posted (edited)

If you disconnect the wedge from the rams you can check for binding issues with the wedge housing and wedge bolts. Unlikely if things were working fine the last time you used it. “On my 2010 LSV”, the wedge “arm holes” were threaded and the “wedge housing holes” that the pivot bolts ran through were threaded. I thought that was a bad design and reinforced that thought after reassembly. If the pivot bolts are not centered in both arms and the housing the assembly will bind at some point in stowing or deploying the wedge. Point being, have equal amounts of threads showing on both bolts so the bolts or the wedge arms will not make contact with any surface in the wedges arc of movement. The rams are screw type and can be hand adjusted if needed. One of mine was adjusted far enough out/in to have a slight bind, so I adjusted accordingly. As I recall the difference between the 2 rams was only 1/2 turn, but that was a big difference in length. You can pull the top caps to the rams to check for water intrusion for rust or a short. Mine literally still had dust in them when I checked. I used silicone when I reassembled them for just in case. You can fine tune the wedge stowed position in the housing by loosening the bolts on top, pushing up on the wedge and then tightening those bolts. Before I did that my wedge would flop up and down when I trailered, it drove me nuts. Good luck.

Edited by wdr
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