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FYI: UFP Trailer Buddy GOLD system can easily be converted to the Vault system.

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Posted (edited)

FYI, because everywhere seems to be out of stock on the Trailer Buddy GOLD bearing protectors (one of mine crumbled while replacing the sight glass seals), it's very easy to convert the 1.980 oil bath hubs over to the Dexter Vault system. You just need to buy the Vault bearing protectors (UFP 021-091-00), the Vault grease (UFP 088-013-00), and one 1/4-28 zerk fitting (I borrowed one from my dad's Kubota). I went ahead and pulled the hubs off to replace the rear seal and clean the 50w oil off the bearings and surfaces to start fresh, but I'm not positive that's necessary. If you have the GOLD system, then your axles likely don't have the zerk port at the end of the axle, however you can just thread the zerk fitting into the fill port on the hub and pump the bearings full of grease:


Procedure for filling is otherwise the same as normal for the Vault system (see https://www.loadrite.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/The-VAULT-Filling-Inst-07-02-15.psd.pdf)

Some notes that became obvious after the first wheel:

  • Once you've filled the bearing side of the hub with grease, remove the zerk fitting and re-install the fill plug before pounding the new bearing protector cap on. Otherwise the grease cavity will depressurize once you remove the zerk. You will then have to remove the bearing protector and re-fill the hub cavity. Add a dab of RTV to the fill plug before installing just to seal everything up.
  • I used Loctite 609 retaining compound around the edges of the bearing protectors before popping them into the hubs.
  • Make sure that the centers of the bearing caps pop out a little bit after you install, otherwise this may be a sign that you didn't add enough grease to the system. If so knock the bearing protector off again and start over again.

Final thoughts:

Metal seals on the backs of the hubs are pretty annoying to get off, but what seemed to work best was to use a punch to tap on the shoulder of the seal close to the outer edge. The way mine were installed, I basically needed to crush the outer lip down before I could pry it out with a screw driver. I would also go ahead and replace the rubber o-ring that sits at the front of the hub (UFP 32742)


 Finished (kinda, fenders got pulled to be repainted):


Edited by DRAGON88
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