Jump to content

Welcome to TheMalibuCrew!

As a guest, you are welcome to poke around and view the majority of the content that we have to offer, but in order to post, search, contact members, and get full use out of the website you will need to Register for an Account. It's free and it's easy, so don't hesitate to join the TheMalibuCrew Family today!

2009 23 LSV Not Shifting Gears


Recommended Posts

I have a 2009 23 LSV with the 350 Monsoon with about 830hrs..  The boat starts and idles fine.  However, when I move the throttle into gear, the boat will not shift into forward or reverse.  I was running it all morning and it was great.  Stopped for lunch, got back in the boat, and it won't shift.  The handle moves fine...transmission won't shift.  This issue appeared out of nowhere.  I've read somewhere it could be a throttle sensor or solenoid issue.  Any suggestions on where to start?  How to fix?  I really want it fixed before next weekend...Memorial weekend.  Thanks.

Link to comment

I seem to recall someone saying that model has a cable to actuate fwd and reverse.  So I would check at the trans to see if it has slipped out of a bracket or broke.

Link to comment

It's definitely fly by wire.  I have the ZF throttle.

 

Link to comment

Reading some more on this...  Looks like I can possibly replace the throttle control sensor PN 503-06656.  Has anyone had this same problem and replacing the sensor worked? 

 

Link to comment
1 hour ago, rex420 said:

Reading some more on this...  Looks like I can possibly replace the throttle control sensor PN 503-06656.  Has anyone had this same problem and replacing the sensor worked? 

 

That shouldn't be the issue.  That is for throttle position - how much gas to give it.  The fwd/rev signals to the solinoids are from a pair of microswitches inside the zf throttle.

Link to comment

We opened up the throttle control assembly and checked the switches inside the ZF throttle.  Those are working.  Again, I can rev the engine in forward and reverse.  It just won't switch gears...forward or reverse.  Can the solenoids seize up?

 

Link to comment

Just double checked the switches and they work. 

Link to comment

Check the voltage at the transmission solenoid plugs when shifting and verify that the solenoid shaft can be moved by hand.

Link to comment

It’s getting power.  Looks like it’s a bad solenoid. 

Link to comment

Anybody know the solenoid part number I need?  2009 23 LSV w/350 Monsoon

Link to comment

If you have the ZF Hurth Ski-Vee transmission, the Indmar part is:

902034 SOLENOID ELECTRIC SHIFT ZF

There is a manual override for emergencies, or testing.  The shift valve red cover and pin are removed, the stem pin and spacer are removed, then turn the stem to engage the transmission clutches.

The ZF solenoids have the electrical connections that go straight up from the top.  If your solenoids have connections that go towards the side, then you may have an Indmar V transmission.

Link to comment

Yes, there are 2 electrical connections that go up from the top.

 

Link to comment
14 minutes ago, csleaver said:

If you have the ZF Hurth Ski-Vee transmission, the Indmar part is:

902034 SOLENOID ELECTRIC SHIFT ZF

There is a manual override for emergencies, or testing.  The shift valve red cover and pin are removed, the stem pin and spacer are removed, then turn the stem to engage the transmission clutches.

The ZF solenoids have the electrical connections that go straight up from the top.  If your solenoids have connections that go towards the side, then you may have an Indmar V transmission.

It looks like I need 2 of those solenoids...1 for forward and 1 for reverse?  Neither are working and they both get power.  Do the 2 solenoids just screw together?

Link to comment

The solenoids are held onto the shift valve assembly by a threaded retaining spacer.  Once the retainer is removed the solenoids just slide off of the shift valve.  Unfortunately, there is a specialized fork spanner tool used to remove the retainer and it is supposed to be torqued to about 4-5 lbs/ft when installed.  Don't misplace any of the washers or orings during disassembly and make sure to reassemble them all back in the right order and the bypass stem is threaded to the neutral position before installing the end spacer and pin.

Link to comment
4 hours ago, csleaver said:

The solenoids are held onto the shift valve assembly by a threaded retaining spacer.  Once the retainer is removed the solenoids just slide off of the shift valve.  Unfortunately, there is a specialized fork spanner tool used to remove the retainer and it is supposed to be torqued to about 4-5 lbs/ft when installed.  Don't misplace any of the washers or orings during disassembly and make sure to reassemble them all back in the right order and the bypass stem is threaded to the neutral position before installing the end spacer and pin.

So…even when I turn the stem manually, it doesn’t change gears.  Any other thoughts?

Link to comment

We even pulled the stem all the way out…started the motor…and no transmission fluid flowing.   Is there a transmission pump that could have failed?   

Link to comment

It’s not the solenoids.  The solenoids are moving the stem.  We can manually move the stem.  It’s just not shifting gears.  It’s like the transmission fluid is not flowing.  

Link to comment

The transmission pump is bolted to the front of the transmission housing and uses the input shaft of the transmission to turn it.  A stuck internal pressure regulator, clogged trans cooler, or damaged stem seals can cause low pressure.  The mainline oil pressure should be above 120 PSI cold.  If you were having any of those issues you would likely get a transmission temperature alarm.

It is far more likely that your dampner drive plate on the flywheel has failed and is no longer turning the transmission input shaft.  I would recommend removing the starter for access and see if there are any signs of damage to the drive plate.

Link to comment
18 hours ago, csleaver said:

The transmission pump is bolted to the front of the transmission housing and uses the input shaft of the transmission to turn it.  A stuck internal pressure regulator, clogged trans cooler, or damaged stem seals can cause low pressure.  The mainline oil pressure should be above 120 PSI cold.  If you were having any of those issues you would likely get a transmission temperature alarm.

It is far more likely that your dampner drive plate on the flywheel has failed and is no longer turning the transmission input shaft.  I would recommend removing the starter for access and see if there are any signs of damage to the drive plate.

I did not get any temperature alarms…nothing.  I guess I’ll take a look at the drive plate tonight after work.  Thanks for helping with this.  I really appreciate it.  

Link to comment

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...