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2011 VLX receiver question


southernfried

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Posted (edited)

Finally going to tackle the wire jungle behind my amp wall/panel in my 2011 VLX. It has the rockford unit but I can't find a model # on it. Was going to look it up and figure out how many subouts it has, etc. I may even replace it.

Curious if someone knew offhand the stock receiver? Whatever it is, it's tied to this black box(which I believe has the sub outs, etc).

picture of box i'm talking about, it's to the left of the amps.

https://imgur.com/a/LK3zlWL

 

EDIT - DISREGARD, after searching for 15 minutes i found the model #

Edited by southernfried
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The dreaded “Black box” (upper left corner) will either be a RFX-3000 or possibly a RFX-5000. My 2010 had the 3000 in it and as I recall 2011 had some upgrades. The receiver might be a RF MR 5 BB, was on my 2010. Once again things changed in 2011, but the in dash, (if so equipped) radio touch screen should have the model number stenciled on top center mass of the screen.

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Posted (edited)

thanks for your reply! so the driver side radio is model RFXMR5BB. 

so i see you have the wet sounds rig too. can you describe your install/layout? you use the wetsounds to control the volume/zone, does that go to the RF receiver above at all or do you also have one of these black boxes on the other side of boat? i suppose what i'm asking do you have to connect the wetsounds to the black box? and did you have to buy a new volume controller for back of the boat also?

Edited by southernfried
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Posted (edited)

wdr, i saw this post about your install:

I did make some “L” brackets out of aluminum for 3 of the 4 corners. I attached the 420 to an HDPE base. I secured the 2 front brackets to the sides of the HDPE base and to the bottom raw edge of the fiberglass helm. This was the bottom exposed edge of the helm when looking up into the dash. I predrilled those holes for the screws so as not to split the helm. The 3rd inboard screw was secured to the side of the carpeted helm panel. No exposed screw issue because the screw was behind the upholstered pass through panel. The 4th corner I did not worry about because the other 3 were “OCD secure”. I ran my 420 straight to my RF black box. Those inputs were marked and easy to plug up. About the only issue I had was trying to get the AUX to work for when I ran my IPhone off of the 3.5mm jack. I had to consult with the resident expert on here to get that figured out. Thanks again to @ MLA for the advice. Keep the new RCAs away from any power source and well shielded. And for gods sake, strain relief the RCA connections or you will be chasing radio gremlins forever! Good luck

can you elaborate what strain relief RCA cables? radio gremlins? assuming static?

Edited by southernfried
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The electrical connections on the black box were my biggest challenge on my 2010. ALL of the wires, electrical or RCA that were connected to it were rolled up into big heavy coils and flopping around at the connection points. With the weight of the wires and the constant bouncing and rolling the connectors would come apart enough to intermittently work or completely stop working. When I installed the 420 I went OCD on the connectors. I used electrical tape on the junctures and then used “P” wire loom holders on both sides of the connections and screwed them to the amp board to isolate the connectors and remove any weight from that point. I did the same thing for the rest of the wires to separate the hot wires from the RCAs. I also had issues with the lame glass fuse holders for the main power (red wire) and the memory and clock power wire (yellow). I replaced those with 20th century blade fuse holders and never had a problem again.

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