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Winterizing 2015 22VLX - Monsoon


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Any tips on this model? I have drained several before just making sure I’m not missing something on this model as it’s my first time with it. 
 

Thanks! 

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Should have 2 knock sensors center mass port and starboard sides. Manifold cross over garden hose with the brass coupler heads over the trans / VD juncture. Square head VD drain plugs on the back side of the  VD. If you partly remove the anodes on the face of the VD you can probably accomplish the same thing as pulling the rear plugs. YRMV Good luck.

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I would be lying if I told you exactly the same, but I haven’t seen much difference between my 2010 and my friends 2015 LSV. Unless it is running a partial closed cooling system it should be the same.

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Knock sensors, water pump hoses, exhaust manifolds and heater should be the same. I’m not sure what the vdrive plumbing is like on that generation though. I’d go though the manual in the resource section if it were me. 

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You should pull the brass drain plug on the impeller housing also. I normally just pulled the hose on the outlet side of the pump and shop vac’d that hose section out. Mine are climate controlled stored so not quite as big a concern for me as someone storing outside. Plus you guys get quite a bit colder than us westerners. 😁

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Lol yes… I always wait til the last minute… hoping for a few extra days. It’s in our insulated garage - so that helps. 
 

all of my monsoon axis were pretty easy and the LCR on my 2010 Malibu but the 2015 PCM T22 I had was sort of a pain 

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I hear you on the PCM. I went to winterize my friends H6 in his FI 25 which coincidentally is Ashley Kidds old boat and was I in for a shock. You would think a big boat with “more room” would be easier to service. Not in the least! The ram fill tanks take up a lot of vertical room so you have to blindly reach down to try and find all “8” of the blue Easter eggs to drain it. The oil filter was visible but shoved down there as well. I  hope we have a short winter. Good luck. 

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Well that’s the first time I have seen the brass block drain thru the brass plug… should I still remove the brass plug? 
 

the hose I undid in the last pic… they have went to that instead of garden hose? Is that correct… nothing really came out but I did drain the blocks first. Any reason to remove other side?
 

I went like this 

Drain V drive plug

Drain block (1 on each side) 

Remove J hose… (this is now a metal hose instead of rubber) 

Just remove raw water intake hoses 

 

as far as draining… have I missed anything? Always like to double check myself. 

 

FC874484-3-CC3-42-A1-BE10-6-C98578-D16-DDA27123-D-B4-A4-40-BF-8-C8-A-D1-F632-EF3
123-A5-D12-DE16-4-D81-B973-34033-D890-C7

Edited by DylanR
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The brass plug might get a little more water, but doubtful. Yes to the other side to drain that side of the block. Should be equal amounts water in both sides of the block. IME the cross over always had a lot of water on my 2010. Different engine or MY, different results. Might want to pull the drain plug or the cover plate on the impeller pump housing to drain it. The “J” hose always had a lot of water but you got that. Sounds like you got everything.

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My OCD takes over when I winterize. I use a shop vac when I drain it to catch any water and to suck out any residual from the block. I am more worried about rust and stinky water in the bilge than it freezing. 

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Replacement for the original factory ballast hose it looks like. It is running to the wrong side it appears. But at the length shown I wouldn’t be surprised if it isn’t rubbing on the prop shaft or the VD shaft coupler. 

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14 minutes ago, ahopkinsVTX said:

Do you have a hotwater shower? Looks too small for a ballast hose.

No shower on this one 

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6 minutes ago, wdr said:

The shower should be run off of the block, but who knows what the OM did. Looks like it is hose clamped on to and running from that ballast pump. 

It’s going to the “garden hose” 

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40 minutes ago, csleaver said:

That blue/red tracer hose supplies water from the exhaust crossover hose to the dripless prop shaft seal.

After looking at it again closer… that’s what I was thinking… 

E4-B51358-4404-4-C41-8129-11000-A394471.

  • Like 1
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4 hours ago, wdr said:

The brass plug might get a little more water, but doubtful. Yes to the other side to drain that side of the block. Should be equal amounts water in both sides of the block. IME the cross over always had a lot of water on my 2010. Different engine or MY, different results. Might want to pull the drain plug or the cover plate on the impeller pump housing to drain it. The “J” hose always had a lot of water but you got that. Sounds like you got everything.

Pulled the other side… no water came out… most likely because I had already drained the block. Those are awful to pull off but I suppose they went away from garden hose because of the drip less fitting… 

Went ahead and removed the brass drain plugs… no water came out either. 


Where’s the drain plug on impeller housing? I don’t think this one has that… I removed the hoses to it already… 

I can’t figure out what this is?? 

Intake hose? But I didn’t see quick connect… 
 

C7-FD9-B30-806-F-4-B6-A-A643-9160145225-

Edited by DylanR
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The original photo made that hose look like it was coming off of the ballast pump. That hose is consistent with every dripless set up that I have seen. Earlier models had the dripless shaft seal water supply coming out of the trans cooler  housing which was located on the aft starboard side of the engine. Depending on how cold it is, when you fire up the boat on a “fake a lake” you will see steam coming out from where the prop shaft enters/exits the hull. I remember now seeing on newer MY boats where the trans coolers are located on the fore end of the engine. There might not be an impeller plug. It was visibly sticking out of the housing on my Johnson on my 2010. Never used it as I pulled the impeller every season during its nap. The intake hose should be running from the raw water scoop up into the ball kock valve in the hull to the raw water pump. The quick disconnect was most likely an option that would allow for running it off of a hose instead of a fake a lake, bicbw. I think you have all of your bases covered.

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