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2011 Wakesetter - No power electronics, engine, everything


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Gerberpollack

HELP

I was driving the boat at 5mph, started lowering the power wedge and everything died. I’ve been unable to restart the electronics or engine. A few things about the boat:

1. 2011 LSV

2. Medallion Viper 1539 - 10267

3. 350 hours

4. Boat had keypad and no key 

5. No issues since purchasing last year

I’ve taken the following actions.

1. Confirmed voltage at battery, starter, throttle breaker and fuse panel = 12.5

I cannot easily check the engine fuse panel because the rear bench support sits on top of it (crappy design).

A few hypothesis:

1. Medallion module died

2. Fuse panel died

3. Wire came loose

How do I test to see if the Medallion is receiving power and working correctly?

Any advice on next steps for diagnosing and fixing the issue?

thank you!!!!

 

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See if there is a tripped breaker mounted near the batteries in the observer storage compartment or a blown fuse in a red rubber fuse holder in the wiring under the dash.

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Gerberpollack
Posted (edited)

cleaver - 

1. The breaker near the battery has not tripped

2. There's a black fuse holder near the keypad with a good fuse

I read about a breaker button near the engine but never found it. Is there one?

Edited by Gerberpollack
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From what I have seen on most modern Indmar engines is if you have a large plastic fuse box near the ECM with the Maxi fuses in them, then there isn't another breaker on the engine because the fuses take the place of the breaker that was used in earlier models.

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Also, the newer medallion power modules, where the helm fuses are located, have a red light near the top of the circuit board that blinks when the modules are powered up and functioning.

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Gerberpollack
Posted (edited)

csleaver


Do you think a blown fuse in the engine box could cause the Medallion to lose power?

Do you know if the power to the Medalliom comes through the helm fuse panel or direct?

 

thanks,

 

andy
 

 

 

 

Edited by Gerberpollack
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The way I understand it the helm power comes from the batteries to the battery switch, then from the switch to the breaker in the observer storage, then to the starboard breaker panel.

  • Thanks 1
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Gerberpollack

Gotcha. This helps me understand the problem. The power is getting to the right places but the computer or fuse panel are FUBAR. I’m going to call a great mechanic shop tomorrow to confirm. The upside is my display appears to be fine so the cost will be replacing the computer.

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 Check the power button on the dash if your model has it. It’s a cheaply made push button switch. Mine went bad and killed power to everything. I replaced it and now carry a spare. 

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Gerberpollack
Posted (edited)

Saltydog

My boat has a keypad start with no backup key. The only components with some power are the stereo (some light), bilge pump and seat heater. I assume the bilge works because it’s hardwired to the battery but I’m unsure why there’s some voltage to the stereo (doesn’t turn fully on).
 

 

 

Edited by Gerberpollack
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Gerberpollack

Saltydog 

do you know if the MUX connects through the Medallion or directly to the fuse panel?

 

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Im not sure about the MUX. On my boat there are only a few big amp items connected to the Fuse panel. One is the ignition/dash panel and I’m forgetting what the other is. My bilge pump and ecm are the only two items tied directly to battery. They even bypass the perko switch. 
If you’re getting partial power at the radio that could be an indicator of a bad ground connection. My 247 has a ground bus bar under the dash and it was corroded. I pulled every terminal off including the main ground back to battery, sanded, cleaned, and coated with corrosion x. I did the same to the battery terminals and the negative grounds on the engine block. It’s kind of a pain but really helps and is a common pain point. 

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Gerberpollack

Thanks. I spoke to a mechanic who thinks the issue is likely due to the breaker on the motor. I need to remove the back bench because it sits on top of the fuse box. Fingers crossed I find a blown breaker. I’m going to relocate the fuse box so I can access without removing the bench. What a pain in the butt.

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Gerberpollack

I struck out on the root cause. I spent 4 hours pulling off the back bench to access the fuse box. The main engine breaker was not tripped and the other fuses were fine. Back to the drawing board..

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Take a multi meter and probe the positive leads at the dash. Use a jumper cable clamped direct to battery ground as your negative for the meter. This will quickly confirm where you are getting power eliminating a bad ground as a variable. 

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The pictures are helpful. I see lots of rust and corrosion on the starter solenoid and various other components in the background. It looks like the boat has seen salt water.  That’ll mean sanding and cleaning all the electrical connections. Buy some corrosion x. It won’t clean the terminals but will help prevent corrosion from coming back once you get them clean. 

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Gerberpollack

Update:

I brought the boat to a friend’s mechanic. He bypassed the solenoid since I damaged the post. The electronics turned on but died when he hit start again. He also evaluated the power wedge which was frozen with one motor heating up and the other one cold. He’s going to replace the starter/solenoid and give it another try. 
 

Does the issue sound like anything you’ve encountered before?

1. Power Wedge overloading system and causing it to overload?

2. CAN issues causing the system to short?

3. Anything else you can think of?

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Did you check and clean all the grounds? Same for positive terminals? When electrical circuits have bad connections they get hot. Can’t pull the required current. 

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