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New M220 ballasts won’t drain


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Have a new M220 and starting yesterday the center and rear ballasts will fill but won’t drain. I’m getting an overcurrent fault in the power modules. If I go into diagnostics I can reset the breaker on the power module but it will dump water for about two seconds and then trip the breaker again. I can push reset 500 times and get all the water out but that’s probably not a great solution. Or good for the boat. The rear lines are not kinked or anything and like I said it fills fine. And it seems to drain fine until the fault happens.  Bow drains and fills fine.

Edited by BZM220
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PS the bow drain works and it’s the smaller pump. I’ve only found the center drain and it’s a pentair 2000 (bigger style)

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Had mine do this a few weeks back. Remembered my dealer telling me a story about how many issues they were having with pumps due to people changing the boat model in the configuration menu as that controls some of the values in the power modules... Checked it out and during the course of me having the batteries disconnected it had reset to a 22LSV... Changed it back to a M220 and everything worked. I had done a screen reset as well so not sure which one fixed it, but I have not had any issues post changing the model to the correct boat.

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Wow thank you so much. I had reset to to factory values to fix Bluetooth issues. When I did that it changed the model of the boat just as you said. Changed it to m220 and for whatever reason I also had to turn the battery disconnect off and on again before it all worked properly. But it all works now!!! Thank you!!!!

  • Like 2
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  • 1 year later...

It seems the first step is to confirm the boat model is configured correctly.  In the setting menu, select Configuration, select Boat Model Hull ID, confirm that your boat and tower model are displayed.  The + and - icons can be used to change the boat and tower model setting.

An overcurrent fault is basically the same as blowing a fuse or tripping a breaker.  Which power module circuits are tripped when you get the overcurrent fault alarm?

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On 7/6/2021 at 7:47 AM, 23LSVOwner said:

It is possible there is a software update for it. I recommend checking.

Hearing that the new software update is causing other issues.  Would not update to the newest which I believe just came out.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Just downloaded the new Software as I had the usb version of the last June update.   
 

The boat now shows 14.4v on the battery compared to 13 before the update.  Also the Bluetooth audio now working perfectly instead of super glitchy and nearly unusable.  

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  • 2 weeks later...

Had the same issue recently.  Ended up dumping the plug and play directly into the hull and letting auto-bilge take over to get back to dock.  The drain pumps for rear pnp are directly under the rear lockers.  Pain in the a** to get to.  You have to pull out the engine side covers and remove the floorboards.  Once exposed I checked voltage at the plug with an ohmmeter which read correctly.  Confused by the reading I gave the pump a good slap and now she works like a champ.

  I have had to go through my boat top to bottom chasing faults.  My best advice is to tighten the ground cable on lower port side of the engine block.  I have had a lot of wacky electronics issues that were resolved by tightening this nut.  Torque specs in Tennessee are much different than over here on the west coast.  

The embarrassment suffered from being on the water when these faults happen is the absolute worst part of the whole endeavor.

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