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How to replace the seal in a leaking raw water pump


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Posted (edited)

For boats with the Johnson Raw Water pump mounted on the crankshaft pulley

at some point your raw water pump will begin to leak water out of the back of the pump on to the crankshaft pully

Choices: replace the pump with a new one like I did ten years ago or replace the seal like I did a few minutes ago.

Thanks to @justgary for pushing me to do this repair myself.

For this write up, I will start with the raw water pump out of the boat sitting on the workbench.

Time needed:  ten minutes, plus interruptions 

Tools: While I would encourage you to run to the store and buy a router or a new set of combination wrenches, but you should have those and you don't need them for this project.  You will need a hammer, a socket, some spray silicon/lube and a small screwdriver of the regular type and some steel wool to clean the pump

Parts: One seal

place a socket over the spline

brace the pump in a vice 

hammer the socket a few times

separate the pump housing from the spline and bearings

turn the pump housing over and punch out the old seal with a flat screwdriver

clean the pump

put a new seal in position and press it in with your thumbs

make sure the o ring stays put on the spline shaft

put the spline back into the housing

place a board over the front of the pump housing and tap the housing back down over the bearings

use some steel wool to clean up the project so that it will take longer and look better

done.

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Edited by Bozboat
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Great job!

By the way, the seals are www.oringsandmore.com part number 16x28x7 Buna-n oil seal.  I bought a sack of ten of the seals and have fixed three pumps and given two away so far.

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3 minutes ago, justgary said:

Great job!

By the way, the seals are www.oringsandmore.com part number 16x28x7 Buna-n oil seal.  I bought a sack of ten of the seals and have fixed three pumps and given two away so far.

The photos are out of order but it really is less complicated than changing a tire.

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Thanks for the tutorial. I too replaced the entire pump a few years back, but I kept the old one so I can practice on that! 

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30 minutes ago, Bozboat said:

The photos are out of order but it really is less complicated than changing a tire.

But maybe not quite as fast.  The last time I changed a tire on my tandem utility trailer, it was right at five minutes from pulling over to getting back in the truck.

- Get the wrench out of the tool box and break the lugs

- Throw the stacks of lumber out of the truck and under the good tire on that side

- Pull the trailer up on the stack to lift the bad tire

- Spin the nuts off, get the spare tire from the front of the trailer (it is finger tight), change the tire, spin the nuts on

- Pull the trailer off of the stack

- Throw the lumber and the old tire back in the truck

- Tighten the lug nuts

- Throw the wrench in the truck as you get back in.

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46 minutes ago, justgary said:

By the way, the seals are www.oringsandmore.com part number 16x28x7 Buna-n oil seal.  I bought a sack of ten of the seals and have fixed three pumps and given two away so far.

@Bozboat tells me that the seals are no longer listed under that part number.  It looks like they have changed their numbering system:

https://www.oringsandmore.com/metric-oil-shaft-seal-16-x-28-x-7mm-single-lip-ref-cr564053-cr564610/

Price as of this writing is $1.75 each plus shipping.

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I’ll have to dig for my extras, but I was able to cross it at my local parts store. The size info above should be enough for a good parts counter guy to find. 

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