Jump to content

Welcome to TheMalibuCrew!

As a guest, you are welcome to poke around and view the majority of the content that we have to offer, but in order to post, search, contact members, and get full use out of the website you will need to Register for an Account. It's free and it's easy, so don't hesitate to join the TheMalibuCrew Family today!

Best paint for windshield frame? Looking for suggestions


Recommended Posts

Hi All!!

I need to cleanup my windshield frame (black) on my 99 Response Lx.

I know everyone likely gets it powder coated but I dont have time for that.  Has anyone painted the frame themselves? If so, what kind of paint did you use and how did you apply?

spacer.png

Link to comment
4 minutes ago, footndale said:

Prep work is everything on quality paint jobs.

And good primer is everything on aluminum.  If you can find zinc chromate any more, use it as a primer coat.

Link to comment
14 hours ago, footndale said:

Good quality auto paint.

If you don't have time, Rust-Oleum.

Prep work is everything on quality paint jobs.

 

14 hours ago, justgary said:

And good primer is everything on aluminum.  If you can find zinc chromate any more, use it as a primer coat.

Thanks!!!  I will give it a try.

Link to comment
37 minutes ago, tassaly81 said:

 

Thanks!!!  I will give it a try.

If you can't find a chromate primer, go to a machine shop and ask them to apply a chem film coating for you.  They may know this as Alodine, Iridite, Bonderite, or Alochrom.  Paint, powder coat, etc. will not adhere properly without a good primer coat, and this is the gold standard on aluminum.

You should do all the prep work like sanding to bare metal and completely covering *everything* else in the boat first with plastic.  If I were going to refurb my whole windshield, I would strongly consider removing it from the boat and carefully removing the glass so I could do it right.  At that point, you could use a chemical paint stripper to help get all of the old coating off.  Your new finish will only look as good as your prep, so take your time.

Since I wasn't sure if you could still do chromate conversion coatings in Canada, I checked to make sure and this place popped up.  They are in Vancouver, so at least you know you can take a road trip if you can't find someone local.

http://www.sti-coatings.com/chromate.html

Link to comment
4 minutes ago, justgary said:

If you can't find a chromate primer, go to a machine shop and ask them to apply a chem film coating for you.  They may know this as Alodine, Iridite, Bonderite, or Alochrom.  Paint, powder coat, etc. will not adhere properly without a good primer coat, and this is the gold standard on aluminum.

You should do all the prep work like sanding to bare metal and completely covering *everything* else in the boat first with plastic.  If I were going to refurb my whole windshield, I would strongly consider removing it from the boat and carefully removing the glass so I could do it right.  At that point, you could use a chemical paint stripper to help get all of the old coating off.  Your new finish will only look as good as your prep, so take your time.

Since I wasn't sure if you could still do chromate conversion coatings in Canada, I checked to make sure and this place popped up.  They are in Vancouver, so at least you know you can take a road trip if you can't find someone local.

http://www.sti-coatings.com/chromate.html

Amazing insight!  thanks you so much.  This is very helpful!

Link to comment

I am having excellent results with Rust-Oleum 2X spray paint.  The proof has been:  anodized my swim platform brackets which lasted all of a few months of dipping in our lake water.  Not wanting to spend time on a lark I though wtf, I'll try this stuff.  Works great, going on three years and still looks good.  I also sprayed a couple of aluminum parts that are constantly in the water and subject to lake water, still look great after several years.  As noted, good surface prep is a key.  A key will be how well any coating holds up to the cover rubbing in it, can't give good feedback on that side of how well the 2X will do.

Edited by Woodski
Link to comment

I had the same issue with a 2002 Response. I taped off, sanded until all paint was gone (120), used scotch pad to scuff up any part that was shiny. Cleaned with thinner on a rag, light prime and light paint. Painted over a couple of times after paint flashed. 2 years and looks great.

Link to comment

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...