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Rev 10 tower wiring questions


Brandonloos21

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Brandonloos21

Boat will be in by the beginning of next week and I will be adding 4 rev 10’s to the tower. I’m using the x mount kit to hang them with the g5 adapters. Had anyone used these, should I use lock tite on any of the bolts? Any specific torque specs? Also, I am going to be running a lead of 12ga up each side, then splitting it to 14ga for the second speaker on each side (see diagram below). I am wanting to use heat shrinks to cover up my solder connections, what would you reccomend, I have been looking into boots like this. Also, where do you keep the soldered parts, in the cans or in the tower?Thanks in advance!

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Edited by Brandonloos21
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Brandonloos21
1 hour ago, MLA said:

Not to use solder. 

What would you use aside from solder?

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Solder makes a stranded conductor into the solid conductor, making it prone to break. Heatshrink butt splice or a male/female disconnect. 

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Brandonloos21
24 minutes ago, MLA said:

Solder makes a stranded conductor into the solid conductor, making it prone to break. Heatshrink butt splice or a male/female disconnect. 

I have always heard that the best connection to make is soldered. Do you always do butt connects? I’m pretty sure malibu does butt connects from factory

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From a continuity standpoint, a proper solder is a perfect electrical circuit. ABYC and NMMA, one or both IIRC, discourage a soldered splice. A few decades ago, GM implemented the use of heatshrink butts for splice repairs. They proved it to be as strong or stronger then the original uncut wire.  

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Brandonloos21
On 6/18/2021 at 6:15 PM, jwl019 said:

Those are awesome, just have to make sure that the solder melts all the way through the wire strands! I’ll most likely go with those 

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