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1995 Echelon blew sparks out carb, now no electrical power at all


barefootdiver2000

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I have seen several Mercruiser engines with a starter solenoid on top of the engine by the 50 amp breaker very close to the flame arrestor.  There is usually a plastic cover over the solenoid terminals, but if is missing I think it would be easy to accidentally touch the hot terminal to something grounded to the engine.

Many Mercruiser engines have a fusable link attached to the same starter terminal as the battery cable and it connects to the rest of the engine electrical system.  If that fusable link is blown you would not have any power to the engine systems.  The fusable link is color coded white, black, or red/brown depending on the amp rating.  The white 90 amp fuse is the most common, but the engine model and serial number can be used to confirm the correct part.

https://www.amazon.com/ASSEMBLY-MERCRUISER-ENGINES-18-8220-79023A91/dp/B017OBIV58

If the starter solenoid insulator cover is missing, this one might work.

https://www.crowleymarine.com/parts/6885.cfm

 

 

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On 6/17/2021 at 4:43 PM, Rednucleus said:

Could you post a pic of the top of the motor shooting down at the carb please

I would like to, but it doesn't give me the option to post pics on this site.  Is there a trick to doing it?  It only gives me the option to "Insert image from URL".

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On 6/17/2021 at 9:42 AM, csleaver said:

I have seen several Mercruiser engines with a starter solenoid on top of the engine by the 50 amp breaker very close to the flame arrestor.  There is usually a plastic cover over the solenoid terminals, but if is missing I think it would be easy to accidentally touch the hot terminal to something grounded to the engine.

Many Mercruiser engines have a fusable link attached to the same starter terminal as the battery cable and it connects to the rest of the engine electrical system.  If that fusable link is blown you would not have any power to the engine systems.  The fusable link is color coded white, black, or red/brown depending on the amp rating.  The white 90 amp fuse is the most common, but the engine model and serial number can be used to confirm the correct part.

https://www.amazon.com/ASSEMBLY-MERCRUISER-ENGINES-18-8220-79023A91/dp/B017OBIV58

If the starter solenoid insulator cover is missing, this one might work.

https://www.crowleymarine.com/parts/6885.cfm

 

 

I think you are right in what happened.  The cover on that solenoid wasn't on real good (might have been bumped when I took the bracket off that holds the flame arrestor down and thats when the sparks shot everywhere.  Any idea where the fuse would be?  I've looked everywhere and don't see one.  Since I have voltage at the starter it makes no sense to me why it shouldn't turn over.

 

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The starter should have a cable connected directly to the battery positive terminal or battery switch.  There should also be a fusable link connected to that same starter post.  The fuseable link has cables attached to it for the engine power that goes to the red breaker.  Use this service manual for reference.  Page 4A-2 and 3 shows the fuseable link.

https://www.google.com/url?q=https://us.v-cdn.net/5020499/uploads/FileUpload/35/24c9dbda1b871c01ec4324f4912a98.pdf&sa=U&ved=2ahUKEwiylfvI-ajxAhUEu54KHUCVBQgQFjAFegQICBAB&usg=AOvVaw2Ev7by8UYYEq6C1gH9uu-X

 

Can you post a photo of your starter?

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Since I'm not able to post pics, I took a video of my engine and posted it on youtube.  Here is the link:  

 

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14 hours ago, barefootdiver2000 said:

I would like to, but it doesn't give me the option to post pics on this site.  Is there a trick to doing it?  It only gives me the option to "Insert image from URL".

Watch this video.  At the 1:01 mark, you can do as she does, or just click on the image itself...accomplishes the same thing.  Then, as she does at 1:25, right click and copy image address.  That is what you'll paste here and it will show up.

 

 

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Here are a few pics of the starter and engine.  I have owned the boat since 1997 and hasn't really had much done to it other than a new starter several years ago.

IMG-4523.jpg

IMG-4524.jpg

IMG-4525.jpg

 

 

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It looks like there is no fusable link connected to your starter.  The red sleeved wire on the starter post should go up to the top 50 amp breaker, then a red and purple wire goes from the breaker, into the harness, and then goes to a large post on the starter solenoid near the breaker.  All of those terminals and wires should have battery voltage when tested.  The other post on the starter solenoid should have a yellow and red wire on it that will only have voltage when cranking the key switch.

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On 6/27/2021 at 8:32 PM, Rednucleus said:

Wondering if any progress on this?

Not yet, still waiting to get it into the shop, probably after July 4.  Will post an update when they find the problem.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Was able to finally get it into the shop today.  As I expected it was something simple and was the 50 amp circuit breaker just behind the carb that is bad.  He bypassed it and it fired right up and with a little adjustment to the carb stayed running and sounded good.  Shop didn't have one on hand, so I need to order one. 

Lots of different ones out there from $12 to $50.  Anyone have any recommendations on one and where to order from? 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks for all the help.  Received the new circuit breaker and put it in.  Took it to the lake and it fired right up and ran better than it has in years.  Only thing that doesn't work is the horn, but I can live with that.  I assume there is a fuse somewhere under the dash, but I can't find one anywhere.  Anyone know what I should be checking for?

Also, in the Computron I have, it flakes out sometime in the display - like when it should say "Speed"  it will say "eed +"  or instead of "Stopwatch" it will say something like " opwatc ".  The depthfinder in the Computron also has never worked.  Any idea on these as well?

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On the horn, I have never seen a horn button that works reliably for very long.  Try slowly and gently pushing the button a bunch of times.  You may find the sweet spot where it makes contact just right and the horn sounds.  If that doesn't work, test the horn by jumping 12V directly to it.

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