Water discharge temps 93 Merc 5.7

[BigCountrys93EuroF3]

19 hours ago, Rack said:

Glad to see you got it worked out. This forum is a great source of information. When you get the cooling system working we will have to work on the swim step LOL 

Its a boat it never ends

Thanks and yes the platform is a bit drooping on the starboard side. Hehe, yup it indeed never ends.

I have an 82 Honda bike and it always needs something, but it was given to me so I am ahead by just investing my time and 300 bucks so far. 

I did add plenty more teak oil to the platform. Its pretty darkened up right now.  I will be updating once I check the trans cooler and look at the trans oil as well. 

[Rack]

Jeff adding teak oil may not solve the issue. there is a process that starts with a cleaner and and acid wash then teak oil

What every you use don't use amazon teak oil ( not the internet amazon) this stuff sucks  it will be tacky for months

They make a three step product that works well. I think its Star Bright I have used this and it work well.

You need to recondition the wood first check for loose screws  and address as needed. Do not sand the teak smooth.

it will be too slick. you want it a little rough so the skier doesn't slip off while putting on a ski.  ask me how I know.

But this is off topic and should be in a new thread. My Bad

Edited June 25, 2021 by Rack

[formulaben]

On 6/24/2021 at 10:19 PM, Rack said:

What every you use don't use amazon teak oil ( not the internet amazon) this stuff sucks  it will be tacky for month

Hmmm, not the experience I've had.  Did you leave the oil on a long time?  Directions say to let it sit for 15 minutes then wipe clean with a cloth.  I've always had great results with it.

[BigCountrys93EuroF3]

Hi all, checked the trans fluid and its milky alright.  So I'm looking for some input.  I removed the cooler and used q tips to check for fluid inside anywhere I could reach and came up with no trans fluid. BUT, I do see some corrosion on the outside of the cooler tube and dried trans fluid.  It seems to me that's where the breach is.  Correct me if I am wrong, but the only way water can get in the trans cooling system is thru a faulty trans cooler? See pics below, thanks in advance.  

All other parts of the outside of the cooler tube look good.  

[BlindSquirrel]

I agree, through the cooler should be the only way for water to enter the transmission. On the plus side, you watching your temp gauge may have saved your tranny! So, what did the fluid level look like on the tranny dipstick? Was it way above full? Questioning how much water got in.

[BigCountrys93EuroF3]

41 minutes ago, BlindSquirrel said:

I agree, through the cooler should be the only way for water to enter the transmission. On the plus side, you watching your temp gauge may have saved your tranny! So, what did the fluid level look like on the tranny dipstick? Was it way above full? Questioning how much water got in.

Ok thanks for the confirmation. Always good know I possibly saved a not so cheap transmission, hehe.  So the dipstick to the best of my memory was a bit on the high side but nothing was over flowing out of the dipstick hole.  Thanks for the reply. With any luck I will have her ready for the water by saturday morning.  

[BigCountrys93EuroF3]

On 6/24/2021 at 11:19 PM, Rack said:

Jeff adding teak oil may not solve the issue. there is a process that starts with a cleaner and and acid wash then teak oil

What every you use don't use amazon teak oil ( not the internet amazon) this stuff sucks  it will be tacky for months

They make a three step product that works well. I think its Star Bright I have used this and it work well.

You need to recondition the wood first check for loose screws  and address as needed. Do not sand the teak smooth.

it will be too slick. you want it a little rough so the skier doesn't slip off while putting on a ski.  ask me how I know.

But this is off topic and should be in a new thread. My Bad

Oops, just saw your post now. Dont know how I missed it. Thanks for the info. Ouch, no fun slippin and sliding.  I normally don't take short cuts etc and didn't see your post. That being said I had the itch to get her on the water, so I decided to thro some crap at the wall (oops I mean teak wood), to see what would stick.  I figured I could go back at the end of the season and rework it. To my surprise it worked pretty well. Not perfect but good enough to get thru this boating season.  

[BlindSquirrel]

34 minutes ago, BigCountrys93EuroF3 said:

Ok thanks for the confirmation. Always good know I possibly saved a not so cheap transmission, hehe.  So the dipstick to the best of my memory was a bit on the high side but nothing was over flowing out of the dipstick hole.  Thanks for the reply. With any luck I will have her ready for the water by saturday morning.  

Was a new cooler easy to source?

[BigCountrys93EuroF3]

On 6/26/2021 at 12:15 PM, formulaben said:

Hmmm, not the experience I've had.  Did you leave the oil on a long time?  Directions say to let it sit for 15 minutes then wipe clean with a cloth.  I've always had great results with it.

I cant remember what I used, but its on my shelf and its a name brand.  The teak was so stinkin dry I just poured the oil on it rubbbed it around with a cloth, came back the next day and it was dry and in good enough shape to get on the water.  I don't recomend my method and will do it differently in the future, but it was a quick stab at getting it better than it was for this season of boating since I had and have bigger fish to fry keepin her seaworthy my first season owning her. 🤪

[BigCountrys93EuroF3]

4 minutes ago, BlindSquirrel said:

Was a new cooler easy to source?

Yes, gonna order it today and looks like multiple sources have it.

Soooo, I have a method to my madness because I have had premature failures of aftermarket parts. 

So two things. One, I can't get myself to break out 400 plus on an oem mercruiser cooler.  The second being if a part takes me an hour or less to install I will roll the dice on an aftermarket part. More time than that or if the part fails me and it could be catastrophic I would fork out the cash for oem. 

So looks like Mr Cool has an aftermarket for 125 ish and I will search a bit more before before I buy today unless anyone else has any input.  

[BlindSquirrel]

2 minutes ago, BigCountrys93EuroF3 said:

Yes, gonna order it today and looks like multiple sources have it.

Soooo, I have a method to my madness because I have had premature failures of aftermarket parts. 

So two things. One, I can't get myself to break out 400 plus on an oem mercruiser cooler.  The second being if a part takes me an hour or less to install I will roll the dice on an aftermarket part. More time than that or if the part fails me and it could be catastrophic I would fork out the cash for oem. 

So looks like Mr Cool has an aftermarket for 125 ish and I will search a bit more before before I buy today unless anyone else has any input.  

I mean... I would buy it on the name alone! Reminds me of myself.... 

[BigCountrys93EuroF3]

10 minutes ago, BlindSquirrel said:

I mean... I would buy it on the name alone! Reminds me of myself.... 

Lol

[Woodski]

@BigCountrys93EuroF3 - the other option for water to get in to the transmission is through the transmission vent.  That entry is breached by water when the bilge fills above the vent level.  The corrosion you see on the cooler is the braze joint corroding, that tends to result in simply an external water leak at that point, although I am not implying the internals can't or don't spring a leak.

[BigCountrys93EuroF3]

11 hours ago, Woodski said:

@BigCountrys93EuroF3 - the other option for water to get in to the transmission is through the transmission vent.  That entry is breached by water when the bilge fills above the vent level.  The corrosion you see on the cooler is the braze joint corroding, that tends to result in simply an external water leak at that point, although I am not implying the internals can't or don't spring a leak.

Ok good to know, I will get my head down in there and find the vent so I know the location for future reference. Who knows what happened previously as far as water getting into the bilge.

  I bought this boat from my good friend and don't remember if he said the boat was stored outside or not by the previous owner. My friend did not own the boat for very long at all. One would think the bilge plug was removed if it was stored outside. 

Got my new cooler, gonna install it before the weekend.  I plan on filling it with new fluid, idling it in the driveway (not in gear) then pumping out the fluid once or twice and replace it with fresh fluid to get all the milky crap out of it.  Thx for the info. Jeff

Edited July 22, 2021 by BigCountrys93EuroF3

[BigCountrys93EuroF3]

Just a quick update. Swapped out the cooler.  Fyi, if anyone buys a direct aftermarket heat exchanger from Mr Cool, the brass trans line fittings that screw into the cooler don't fit. Menards had the right size. I wanna say original was 1/2 inch and the Mr Cool was 5/8 or the opposite. 

Also on a side note, I bought new drive shaft packing and found there was no packing remaining in the packing nut. I followed some instructions in a few utube vids. It took three strands and it worked out great. No more pumping the bilge every so often, but I can feel a bit of moisture on the packing nut area so that must be my 1 drip per 10 or 30 seconds whatever the norm is.  Jeff

Edited August 3, 2021 by BigCountrys93EuroF3