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VLX Replacing engine...what else should I do?


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Well it looks like I'm going to have to replace the engine in my 04 Wakesetter VLX.  Went to run the boat for the first time this season and found a freeze plug that popped out (probably from the big winter storm we had this February.)  Replaced the freeze plug hoping everything was ok, and after cranking, found a ton of water in the oil.  Looked like a chocolate milkshake.  Still need to run a couple tests/pull heads to confirm, but I'm preparing for the worst.

My question is, while the engine is out, are there other things that I should go ahead and replace while I have access?  Driveshaft packing, steering cable, etc.  I am a very competent mechanic but am still learning about these boats.  I'm not even really sure how to inspect what's under there, so any input or advice would be appreciated!  I have noticed my driveshaft leaking a fair amount of water when I'm running the boat in the driveway on fake a lake.  Not sure if that's normal.

Thank you!

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Replace fuel lines, check the seal on the gas tank, clean everything, replace the exhaust hoses, check muffler etc

Look at everything you can see easier with the engine out 

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Another way to get water in your oil is the engine oil cooler. If it froze and cracked around the tubes inside. Especially if you 

had it hooked up to a fake lake while cranking it over.

 

 

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Sorry to hear. If you have the dripless shaft seal, I think it is normal to have water running out. Someone else will hopefully chime in on that. Adding to Boz, check and verify all steering mechanism stuff is good. Potentially replace steering cable while it's open? I'd work in a carpet replacement, simply because mine is ready at that age. Go over and verify bilge pump, blower, blower hoses, gas tank vent. Keep us posted on your progress.

Steve B.

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46 minutes ago, Blowncoupe said:

Another way to get water in your oil is the engine oil cooler. If it froze and cracked around the tubes inside. Especially if you 

had it hooked up to a fake lake while cranking it over.

 

 

Where is the engine oil cooler?  Didn't know there was one.

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formulaben
2 hours ago, ZacAttac said:

My question is, while the engine is out, are there other things that I should go ahead and replace while I have access?  Driveshaft packing, steering cable, etc.  

All of these will be much easier to replace while the engine is out, and definitely worth doing before re-installation:

  • Rudder shaft seal/packing
  • Drive shaft packing or dripless seal upgrade
  • Re-seal and tighten shaft log bolts
  • Re-seal and tighten rudder box bolts
  • Re-seal and tighten strut bolts
  • Replace strut cutlass bearings (consider Vesconite type; verify proper size)
  • Steering cable (if stiff at all)
  • Any ballast upgrades/maintenance
  • Any transom light installation
  • Any bilge pump maintenance/upgrade
  • Any blower maintenance/upgrade
  • Adding flush valve
  • Adding raw water strainer
  • Remote oil filter kit
  • Shaft alignment upon engine re-install

 

  • Like 2
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2 hours ago, ZacAttac said:

Where is the engine oil cooler?  Didn't know there was one.

Usually right after the fresh water pump. ( the one that is on the front of the crankshaft) follow the big outlet  hose should hook 

into the engine oil cooler and then the transmission cooler on it’s way to the water pump on the front of the block 

 

here is a picture of the fresh water pump on the crankshaft. The right hose goes to the engine oil cooler on mine. The engine and transmission cooler look the same but the trans cooler is usually a little longer. The oil cooler lines will go to a adapter above the oil filter

ADFFA893-6CC3-4EE9-909C-567A28513687.jpeg

Edited by Blowncoupe
Add picture
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They’re  exactly the same thing. One cools transmission oil.one cools engine oil. I explained that the oil lines on the 

engine cooler will go to the adapter above the oil filter so not to get confused. Mine looks exactly like that if I had a picture 

in my computer I would show you. 

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4 hours ago, Blowncoupe said:

They’re  exactly the same thing. One cools transmission oil.one cools engine oil. I explained that the oil lines on the 

engine cooler will go to the adapter above the oil filter so not to get confused. Mine looks exactly like that if I had a picture 

in my computer I would show you. 

Please do.  I only have a transmission cooler....

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Guys, thanks for the replies and info. You’ve given me several things to add to my list.

18 hours ago, Blowncoupe said:

Another way to get water in your oil is the engine oil cooler. If it froze and cracked around the tubes inside. Especially if you 

had it hooked up to a fake lake while cranking it over.

 

 

Blowncoupe, I’m going to look into the oil cooler theory more. I did run it on fake a lake for a couple minutes before launching the boat.  When we launched it, it only ran for a few minutes, then I discovered the milky oil.
 

My question is, if it does turn out to be a cracked oil cooler and not a cracked block, do you think I could flush the engine somehow and save it?

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If the block / heads  are not damaged and you only idled it for a few minutes there was probably enough lubrication to not damage anything.  Flushing it won’t be a minor task.  Lifters and camshaft would be a concern in terms of remaining water in the system.  Have you or did you measure the amount of water in the oil?  That can tell you how much dilution you have.  OIl cooler would require a remote oil filter so that is a clue.

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13 minutes ago, Woodski said:Have you or did you measure the amount of water in the oil?  That can tell you how much dilution you have.  OIl cooler would require a remote oil filter so that is a clue.

I used a drill pump to drain the oil and got 2 gallons of perfectly mixed chocolate milkshake.

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Here is the engine oil cooler set up I have. And just behind the blue shower hose is the transmission oil cooler. As you can

see it’s just like the one in the picture. Some older boats may not have them and just have a transmission cooler( usually the

same thing just longer) or maybe a previous owner already froze it, removed it and plugged the fittings above the oil filter.

as to flushing the engine as woodski said not easy. You have to use something that will collect the water. Solvents or mineral spirits might work if you fill the pan ,pull the distributor and prime the motor while you rotate by hand to flush out the lifters

,push rods and the oil galleries. Then drain and fill with oil and do the same thing. Then do a quick oil change start it up

and see if you have water again. Make sure you bypass the oil cooler before you start this process 

5C79E9B3-0F16-4CD7-A025-FDDDAD136B34.jpeg

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7 hours ago, formulaben said:

@Blowncoupe what year, make, and model of boat do you have?  Profile just says "Wakesetter."

And that photo looks like the engine is brand new.  If it is a few years old in that photo, I'm submitting him for the "Best Kept Engine" award.

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16 minutes ago, justgary said:

And that photo looks like the engine is brand new.  If it is a few years old in that photo, I'm submitting him for the "Best Kept Engine" award.

You sure you want to pass that award on? Yours looks very well kept, if I remember right.

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18 minutes ago, BlindSquirrel said:

You sure you want to pass that award on? Yours looks very well kept, if I remember right.

Hey, if he earned it, sure.  That engine looks brand new though, so I may still be safe.

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