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Loading Malibu MLx 21...weak winch


Timmer

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I have a 2020 21 MLX wake setter, my first inboard experience. I thought getting it on the trailer would be a lot easier.  I cannot get it winched up the final 6" and the last 12" are a struggle.  If I back it in the water further the back of the boat Floats up causing the front of the boat to be at the wrong angle to guide up correctly.  I would love to power up the boat but I am alone when loading and our boat launches do not allow power loading.  Has anybody upgraded the winch to 2 speed or electric winch?  If so what has worked well?  Or any advice when loading the boat ?  I appreciate the help!

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I have a 2019 25 LSV and the wimpy winch (Fulton XLT) that came with the trailer from the factory didn’t come close to cutting it. Live in Texas where the ramps are very steep and takes a lot of force for that final bit. Factory only used two bolts in center of winch which was causing the base to bend/curl outwards from the pressure. 
 

i ended up replacing the winch with the Fulton F2 3200 pound 2 speed winch for $169 on Amazon and about $25 worth of grade 8 bolts, washers, and lock nuts from Ace Hardware. Had to drill two holes in the trailer frame so new winch could be installed using three bolts in triangle pattern instead of 2 bolts from factory. Buy an extra drill bit!
 

BEST $200/30 MINUTES I HAVE SPENT ON MY BOAT!!!

The F2 is a dream. In high it cranks like every other winch but with an ergonomic handle with a grip that is like a bicycle handlebar grip. Pull out the handle to shift in low and it cranks a tiny bit at a time but with the same amount of user work. The first time I loaded with the F2 I was celebrating. Did the whole thing one handed, bow eye touching roller, trailer fenders just below water line, VERY steep ramp, and didn’t have to power load at all. Wife (who drives boat while trailering) was also celebrating because she didn’t have to power on the trailer which causes her a great deal of anxiety as we mangled a prop doing a power load once when the boat stuck on the bunks and the boat lurched forward with the rudder crooked (seriously Malibu, can we get a rudder indicator on the screen). All she has to do now is get the nose between the guide posts and the winch does the rest. 
 

Another tip that works for me is when backing up truck to load, I dip the trailer WAY down in the water to wet as much of the bunks as possible, pull back out, then back down to proper loading depth (water 2-3 inches) above fenders. This allows boat to catch on bunks and maintain position on the trailer without floating side to side when pulling up the ramp. 
 

So long story short, go get a Fulton F2 2 speed winch. I wish they would have this as an option from the factory. They make a couple other versions that are rated less but the 3200 lb one fits on the trailer mount and looks sleek too. I ordered my 2022 25 LSV two weeks ago for August delivery. Ordered another Fulton F2 for the new boat sitting in the parking lot at the dealer before I left when placing the order. Received the winch and just now just waiting on the boat. I will install it before the boat ever hits the water. I wish Malibu had Amazon Prime and could deliver my new boat tomorrow! :-)

FYI, we launched and loaded 162 times last year so lots of experience. The last 40 or so times were with the new winch and it has made a world of difference, not to mention a $200 winch is cheaper than a $769 prop every time!

  • Like 3
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  • 3 weeks later...

thanks for the insight, do you have any pictures of the newly mounted winch.  I've just ordered the F2 and want to see how high you mounted on the trailer mount.      the Fulton XLT 1500 is a joke, and way underrated for the size of these big boats.  Rated for 3000 pounds and boat is way over 5000 pounds dry.  

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Here is a pic of mine. I used the same top hole that was used from factory to mount the XLT winch. The spacing between the upper and lower bolt hole is slight larger and since they only used a single bolt on bottom I had to drill two holes. The alignment of the strap was nearly identical between the two. 

48B1BC9D-9322-462F-86C3-7A3D3FCB5EC4.jpeg

82D52403-77B0-468E-95CE-B74259C14910.jpeg

  • Like 2
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I'm going to install this same winch for my A24 after bending mine yesterday. Ordered up to arrive Thursday thanks for the write up Zephyr we too launch and load over 100 times a year. Any chance you have your hardware list that you purchased for the install to save me a bit of time!?

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3 hours ago, Rick5150 said:

I'm going to install this same winch for my A24 after bending mine yesterday. Ordered up to arrive Thursday thanks for the write up Zephyr we too launch and load over 100 times a year. Any chance you have your hardware list that you purchased for the install to save me a bit of time!?

I don’t have the part numbers but I used 3-3/8” x 5 1/2” grade 8 hex bolts, 6 heavy duty fender washers, and 3 nylon lock nuts; all zinc coated. I picked it all up at my local Ace hardware. The 5 1/2” bolts were a little too long, could have definitely gotten by with a 5” length, possibly 4 1/2” if your trailer doesn’t have the crinkle coat finish. 
 

The installation instructions say to use grade 5 carriage bolts but I couldn’t find any carriage bolts harder than grade 2 locally. There is plenty of room to get a wrench inside to tighten the bolts and there is more than ample clearance for the winch strap even when it is all on the spool. 
 

The bolts that came with the winch were too short to fit through the trailer tube after I drilled the holes. Make sure to buy a 3/8” drill bit meant to drill through steel AND that bit is long enough to fit through the steel tube from one side when you drill. Buy an extra bit to save an extra trip to the hardware store!

I reused the top hole that the factory winch used, installed the top bolt and made it snug and marked the other 2 holes with a sharpie. 
 

Pretty straight forward install. Took above 30 minutes. I spent more time at Ace getting the bolts. If you have a corded drill, use it. Otherwise make sure all your batteries are charged. Drilling through that steel tubing is no joke.

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  • 1 year later...

Bumping this back up . My T250 is just harder to trailer than my last two boats . Already hit the prop on the trailer trying to find the right depth . So bought a new f2 two speed 3200 lb . My 2022 trailer winch had three bolts and the new one lined up, no need for new bolts . Can’t say I checked to see what grade they were from the factory . Took longer to wind the strap on than the winch swap. I’ll report back how it does, but I suspect it will help crawling the last few inches . 

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Any concern on the pulling force of the bow eye? We just trailered our boat for the first time and couldn't get it the last 6". Wondering if upgrading from a 1500lb pulling force to a 3200lb force would possibly cause damage.

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My reasoning was not so much about doubling the pull force but having it much more manageable for smaller people helping me . The two speed gear makes cranking so much easier and doesn’t leave the handle in the inevitable wrong position where it’s facing the bow and you can’t get any leverage . I thought about your same concerns walking back from the garage . And if the trailer winch mount tube would bend . I’m hoping it’s just enough to make life a little easier . The 250 draft is such that all bunks are under water a fair amount and you either have to power load or not get the bow eye all the way up with standard winch 

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WakeandLake
On 6/23/2021 at 8:00 PM, ZephyrBlueBu said:

Here is a pic of mine. I used the same top hole that was used from factory to mount the XLT winch. The spacing between the upper and lower bolt hole is slight larger and since they only used a single bolt on bottom I had to drill two holes. The alignment of the strap was nearly identical between the two. 

48B1BC9D-9322-462F-86C3-7A3D3FCB5EC4.jpeg

82D52403-77B0-468E-95CE-B74259C14910.jpeg

Ordering the F2 for our M220 now. Good looking boat as well, dude!

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I installed the Fulton F2 winch on my T250 trailer after an early outing where I also hit my prop on the trailer.  Like @Livinlogs, the new winch mounted into the existing holes, and the F2 made a huge difference in ease of loading the boat.  I definitely recommend the change.  Even without shifting it into low gear, it still out performs the wimpy winch that was originally installed. 

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On 6/28/2021 at 10:16 PM, ZephyrBlueBu said:

I don’t have the part numbers but I used 3-3/8” x 5 1/2” grade 8 hex bolts, 6 heavy duty fender washers, and 3 nylon lock nuts; all zinc coated. I picked it all up at my local Ace hardware. The 5 1/2” bolts were a little too long, could have definitely gotten by with a 5” length, possibly 4 1/2” if your trailer doesn’t have the crinkle coat finish. 
 

The installation instructions say to use grade 5 carriage bolts but I couldn’t find any carriage bolts harder than grade 2 locally. There is plenty of room to get a wrench inside to tighten the bolts and there is more than ample clearance for the winch strap even when it is all on the spool. 
 

The bolts that came with the winch were too short to fit through the trailer tube after I drilled the holes. Make sure to buy a 3/8” drill bit meant to drill through steel AND that bit is long enough to fit through the steel tube from one side when you drill. Buy an extra bit to save an extra trip to the hardware store!

I reused the top hole that the factory winch used, installed the top bolt and made it snug and marked the other 2 holes with a sharpie. 
 

Pretty straight forward install. Took above 30 minutes. I spent more time at Ace getting the bolts. If you have a corded drill, use it. Otherwise make sure all your batteries are charged. Drilling through that steel tubing is no joke.

 

I'm having difficulty with this F2 install.

My winch post is similar to yours.

I can get the top bolt but the lower 2 bolts are impossible to access and I can't get a wrench or ratchet inside the winch.  How did you tighten these lower 2 bolts up without getting a wrench inside the winch assembly?  Did you completely disassemble it or did you use some kind of special flexible thin profile ratchet to get inside?

 

 

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29 minutes ago, platon20 said:

 

I'm having difficulty with this F2 install.

My winch post is similar to yours.

I can get the top bolt but the lower 2 bolts are impossible to access and I can't get a wrench or ratchet inside the winch.  How did you tighten these lower 2 bolts up without getting a wrench inside the winch assembly?  Did you completely disassemble it or did you use some kind of special flexible thin profile ratchet to get inside?

 

 

Wrench?  You use carriage bolts.  They slide into the slot in the winch back, which holds the square part so you can just tighten the nut.  You can buy the proper bolts at TSC or Fastenal.  Even Menards should have grade 5 carriage bolts.

I put an F2 on mine last year after breaking my second factory style winch.

Edited by oldjeep
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8 hours ago, platon20 said:

 

I'm having difficulty with this F2 install.

My winch post is similar to yours.

I can get the top bolt but the lower 2 bolts are impossible to access and I can't get a wrench or ratchet inside the winch.  How did you tighten these lower 2 bolts up without getting a wrench inside the winch assembly?  Did you completely disassemble it or did you use some kind of special flexible thin profile ratchet to get inside?

 

 

It is pretty easy to remove the drum to access the bolts. . 

Edited by Bozboat
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