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2016 23LSV Stereo Build - Guidelines and Lessons


dhcomp

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Wanted to start a quick thread on my stereo upgrade. While my upgrades are fairly standard, I was able to accomplish some thing others have said don’t work, and wanted to share for the benefit of others. I also struggled to find wire takeoff measurements elsewhere for this boat, and feel those are useful to people planning systems. 
On to the details!

2016 23lsv

 

Started with factory fosgate interiors and sub, no tower. 
 

Build goal is better sound quality, volume, and addition of tower speakers. 
 

install plan:

Retain factory black box controlled through dash, unless it proves to be too noisy. 
Wetsounds 420sq - debated doing the Bluetooth one, but if I need another Bluetooth source, I prefer using the 420sq + Bluetooth knob in this situation

Wetsounds Revo 6’s and 8’s on the interior, powered from a Syn-Dx6. 
 

Wetsounds Rev10’s on the tower, x mounts on g4 tower. Powered via Syn-dx4. 
 

JL 12w7 sub in sealed box under helm. Powered via a JL hd1200.1. 
 

Rgb controller. 
 

Install is almost complete, but Stay tuned for continued updates. 

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Posted (edited)

Sounds fun!

Man how did you put a 12w7 in a traditional bow boat? I could barely fit a 12w6 in my MXZ with a 1.0 cubic foot sealed box.  

Edited by dwc032
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25 minutes ago, dwc032 said:

Sounds fun!

Man how did you put a 12w7 in a traditional bow boat? I could barely fit a 12w6 in my MXZ with a 1.0 cubic foot sealed box.  

You zero'd in on one of the big things i wanted to highlight very quickly!

 

As i've posted here before, custom boxes are sweet, but finding a good shop to do the work can be tough, and they are expensive.  I have the woodworking ability, but not necessarily the right tools or time to do it myself anymore.  So, i work very hard to use spec boxes in my installs.  

 

Before i brought the boat home, I scoured Ebay for sealed W7 boxes in sizes that might fit.  After making 4 cardboard mockups, i was able to determine that I could fit this one:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/352374229615

Ordered this box without carpet or terminal cup, then coated with epoxy.  

20.5" wide, 13.75" high, and 14" deep.

Nicely built box, JL spec, sealed.  

 

I moved the foot trim panel towards the driver by about 4", and it is now flush with the walk through wall.  Not a big sacrifice.

I was able to retain the factory 3 outlet heater (without relocating!), factory hot tube, and walk through speaker/tub.

 

I ended up having to raise the box significantly to clear the hull and some hoses, but it worked out well.

 

I screwed PT 2x6 into the boat for support, then used angle iron to secure the box to the blocks.  Looks a bit ghetto behind the trim panel, but it is SOLID and very functional.

 

There is plenty of clearance above the sub in an up-firing position.  I coated EVERYTHING i could under the dash, on the front wall, etc. with sound deadening material.  

 

Last piece of the puzzle is carpet, which hasn't arrived yet.  

 

Here's some progress pics, and it's current state.

Very happy with how it turned out!

 

 

 

 

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Posted (edited)
4 minutes ago, dhcomp said:

You zero'd in on one of the big things i wanted to highlight very quickly!

 

As i've posted here before, custom boxes are sweet, but finding a good shop to do the work can be tough, and they are expensive.  I have the woodworking ability, but not necessarily the right tools or time to do it myself anymore.  So, i work very hard to use spec boxes in my installs.  

 

Before i brought the boat home, I scoured Ebay for sealed W7 boxes in sizes that might fit.  After making 4 cardboard mockups, i was able to determine that I could fit this one:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/352374229615

Ordered this box without carpet or terminal cup, then coated with epoxy.  

20.5" wide, 13.75" high, and 14" deep.

Nicely built box, JL spec, sealed.  

 

I moved the foot trim panel towards the driver by about 4", and it is now flush with the walk through wall.  Not a big sacrifice.

I was able to retain the factory 3 outlet heater (without relocating!), factory hot tube, and walk through speaker/tub.

 

I ended up having to raise the box significantly to clear the hull and some hoses, but it worked out well.

 

I screwed PT 2x6 into the boat for support, then used angle iron to secure the box to the blocks.  Looks a bit ghetto behind the trim panel, but it is SOLID and very functional.

 

There is plenty of clearance above the sub in an up-firing position.  I coated EVERYTHING i could under the dash, on the front wall, etc. with sound deadening material.  

 

Last piece of the puzzle is carpet, which hasn't arrived yet.  

 

Here's some progress pics, and it's current state.

Very happy with how it turned out!

 

 

 

 

Awesome dude good job!!!!  I wish I would of done ported.  I could have made it work, but it would have been like  1300 dollar box.  I did all the stereo install, but boxes are not my thing....lol

 

Post up some pics!

Edited by dwc032
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Good job!  Ive tried using cardboard, I just couldnt get it right...lol  Totally jealous!

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Another improvement I made was amp board mounting. I reused the factory board, but didn’t like the wood screw just getting sunk into the backing blocks each time it needed to be removed. 


factory fiber glassed in 3 spots for mounting behind carpet. 
 

I build 3 plastic blocks with threaded inserts, and lagged these to the factory backing.
 

Then I used machine screws to mount the board to the blocks. Consistent install, no more worry of missing a backing block and putting a screw through the hull, and the new blocks added a bit of wire clearance. 
 

I’ll call it a win!

 

 

5D361CD1-9621-4B25-BBEF-B0638589A807.jpeg

A00E1BB2-B1F9-4E1F-ABF2-12E041C30A4C.jpeg

D332BA9B-F1B1-4DEE-AF51-D42E7B4CB3C0.jpeg

Link to post
Posted (edited)

Subwoofer trim panel complete. 
 

12w7 in sealed box, factory 3 outlet heater, stock hot tube, and 2 vents all made it in!

 

 

A4F92751-F18A-428D-8714-840AF9976E31.jpeg

Edited by dhcomp
Link to post
Posted (edited)

4 agm batteries in stock location, plus a noco 4 bank charger 

skipping the box lids in favor of a large carpeted trim panel. 

Just pending final carpet glue up. 
 

Wiring all 1/0. 
 

 

BA29DA6B-443D-4B9E-BC65-39A0F955023B.jpeg

6A00B130-B0A6-4509-A1A4-F14ECEF9DFE3.jpeg

1F3DC836-97E8-42E3-833C-33BC1CF2DD62.jpeg

Edited by dhcomp
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Battery compartment trim. 
 

Just need to add a bit more venting. 

F8A5D28D-A895-42FE-8D66-97F7FB60BD63.jpeg

23789528-9BD1-472B-BB0E-1C0D26C907AF.jpeg

6890027B-F4AB-4371-9E26-0584078B409E.jpeg

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I had similar issues with sub, but I solved it differently.  I bought a concrete mold tube thing.  Forget what they are called, or its precise diameter.  But point is, the cube doesn't have to be a square, it can be a cylinder.  That made fitment nearly a breeze.  I got a sturdy balloon bouncing thing (with the rubber band you used to play with as a kid, stuck it in the end, then glassed it.  Removed that stuff once I had the shape, attached to the back of the HDPE from the helm, and glassed a bit more.  I have some pictures of the process somewhere, but I can't find them.  Tried to get one from the top, it isn't all that helpful, but I'll post it up in a second.  But, if you have a 15" tube, your depth doesn't even need to be 10", and that doesn't even account for the added volume if you round the back of it, if you need 1 cubic foot.  Much easier than trying to fit a 1X1X1 cube in there.

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Nice way to do it. They are called sonotubes. 
 

I work better with wood than fiberglass, but also wouldn’t trust a w7 to a Fiberglass box. Not a great solution for me, but definitely a good option for others!

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