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SPN 731 FMI 0 on M6DI


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Anyone have a clue where to look up codes? My boat the this code last year near the end of the season and it still beeps at me when it gets to temp this year when I started it for the season.  I didn't hear back from my dealer yet and they are like a month backed up.    2020 M6DI SPN 731 FMI 0. It's there a place besides the dealer that can at least tell me what the codes mean so I know how serious it is?

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I saw that manual, but are those codes valid for the M6DI?  Also does anyone know if the FMI 0 means?  This did happen after a week at Lake George and they only had 89 octane gas.  Thanks for the link.

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Posted (edited)

This code?  Mine did the same thing last year.  I had it at the dealer for the winter. I was told it was an engine calibration. They put the latest calibration on and it still throws the code. Had the boat out 10 hours so far this year and still throws the code. My dealer has been super cool, I’ve been dealing with it for over a year and over a 100 hours. Crappy thing is when it gets below a 1/4 tank of gas it goes into a decreased power mode. As long as I keep it above a 1/4 tank it doesn’t reduce any power and runs great. I also bought a Rinda scan tool to help diagnose the codes.  It has saved me several times on this boat and my old boat.   

4404054F-3D5E-4512-AA36-01263A252AF3.png

Edited by dwc032
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17 minutes ago, dwc032 said:

This code?  Mine did the same thing last year.  I had it at the dealer for over 4 months this winter. I was told it was an engine calibration. They put the latest calibration on and it still throws the code. Had the boat out 10 hours so far this year and still throws the code. The dealer has no idea what to do next. At this point I don’t really care, I’ve been dealing with it for over a year and 145 hours. Crappy thing is when it gets below a 1/4 tank of gas it goes into a decreased power mode. As long as I keep it above a 1/4 tank it doesn’t reduce any power and runs great. And I have ran non ethanol super, super and regular.  All grades of fuel threw the code. I also bought a Rinda scan tool to help diagnose the codes.  It has saved me several times on this boat and my old boat.   

What does the scan tool show when the code happens?  Does the knock count go way up all at once?  Does the engine retard timing all at once, or gradually?

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Just now, justgary said:

What does the scan tool show when the code happens?  Does the knock count go way up all at once?  Does the engine retard timing all at once, or gradually?

If I remember correctly, It shows knock count goes way up all at once.  

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42 minutes ago, dwc032 said:

If I remember correctly, It shows knock count goes way up all at once.  

And you are positive that it only happens when the fuel tank is low?  Wow, this could turn out to be something like the fuel hammer issue from 20 years ago.  Maybe the fuel pump is chugging some air and the knock sensor is picking it up, or something crazy like that.

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Posted (edited)
12 minutes ago, justgary said:

And you are positive that it only happens when the fuel tank is low?  Wow, this could turn out to be something like the fuel hammer issue from 20 years ago.  Maybe the fuel pump is chugging some air and the knock sensor is picking it up, or something crazy like that.

Yes 100%!  If the tank is above 1/4 it will not reduce power.  I took a video on what it does.  Ill try and find it.

 

And please refresh my memory on the hammer issue.  Are you talking about the 383 hammer head fuel issue?

Edited by dwc032
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5 minutes ago, dwc032 said:

Are you talking about the 383 hammer head fuel issue?

No.  The Monsoon II port injected engines originally had steel pipes that joined the left and right fuel rails.  Since the injectors fire in pulses, they found that at certain RPMS the pulse frequency set up standing waves in the fuel rails.  As luck would have it, the standing waves would sometimes have their nodes too close to the feed points for a few of the injectors, which caused the local pressure to drop at those injectors.  This caused the engine to stumble or at least perform poorly under certain RPM and load conditions. 

The cure was to cut out the middle section of the steel crossover pipes and use a short section of rubber hose to rejoin them.  The rubber hose sections, even though they are only about two inches long each, act as dampers to keep the standing waves at bay, or at least the nodes are never near the injectors.  I don't know who figured it all out, but the solution seems to work great.  Once the cause was known, it was referred to as "fuel hammer."

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Posted (edited)
14 minutes ago, justgary said:

No.  The Monsoon II port injected engines originally had steel pipes that joined the left and right fuel rails.  Since the injectors fire in pulses, they found that at certain RPMS the pulse frequency set up standing waves in the fuel rails.  As luck would have it, the standing waves would sometimes have their nodes too close to the feed points for a few of the injectors, which caused the local pressure to drop at those injectors.  This caused the engine to stumble or at least perform poorly under certain RPM and load conditions. 

The cure was to cut out the middle section of the steel crossover pipes and use a short section of rubber hose to rejoin them.  The rubber hose sections, even though they are only about two inches long each, act as dampers to keep the standing waves at bay, or at least the nodes are never near the injectors.  I don't know who figured it all out, but the solution seems to work great.  Once the cause was known, it was referred to as "fuel hammer."

Gotcha very interesting. Lets hope thats not the issue with the M6...lol

Edited by dwc032
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2 minutes ago, dwc032 said:

Gotcha very interesting  Lets hope thats not he issue with the M6...lol

It doesn't really matter what the issue is as long as somebody figures it out and it has an easy solution.

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Posted (edited)
On 5/19/2021 at 10:22 AM, justgary said:

It doesn't really matter what the issue is as long as somebody figures it out and it has an easy solution.

Well lets hope!

Edited by dwc032
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@dwc032 Thanks!  This is the code I get. I have only cycled the engine maybe 3 times or so since it first threw the code and it still beeps at me when I got it up to temp with a fake a lake when I was getting it ready for the season. (IT stays inactive though)  I called me dealer and they said the sensor just had a low voltage and don't worry about it.  I didn't like that answer with the cost of these things and it still beeping at me.  Will it eventually stop getting the Service Engine MIL after a few more starts or does the code need to be cleared?  Funny you mention the fuel level as I typically stay above 1/4 tank and the first time it threw the code (maybe 30 hrs) was at the end of the day when I was getting low on fuel.   Also which scan tool are you using?  The techmate or PC software?  May I ask which adapter and kit you have?  With my last boat I had similar issues getting answers from my dealer and they are a 2 hour drive there and back and always backed up a few weeks. 

 

Thanks again so much for the community support. 

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23LSVOwner

Just a thought.

 

If it is still popping as active, check the oil level while the boat is sitting in the water.

There have been cases where too much oil has allowed some to make it into the combustion chambers which can cause that exact code.

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59 minutes ago, 23LSVOwner said:

Just a thought.

 

If it is still popping as active, check the oil level while the boat is sitting in the water.

There have been cases where too much oil has allowed some to make it into the combustion chambers which can cause that exact code.

Interesting.  I would think that it would be caused by the knock sensor picking up the sound of the crankshaft counterweights slapping the oil, but either way this is an easy fix if it is the cause of the code.

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20 hours ago, dwc032 said:

Well lets hope, but the dealer has no idea why its doing that.

Wonder if it could be as easy as just a bad knock sensor?

Steve B.

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It is not active anymore, but its been about my 4th time or so starting the boat since it was active and after a couple minutes of the engine running it will beep at me and say service engine MIL.  No active codes, but I would prefer not to to have it beep at me every time I start it and get rid of that warning on the display unless it throws the code again.  Will the service engine MIL eventually go away after a certain number of clean hours or starts or does the dealer (or  a Tech Pro scanner) need to clear it? Im waiting to hear back form the dealer and its been 4 days so I'm not holding my breath.  Hoping one of you guys will know if that will clear on its own or not. 

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15 hours ago, Jborges said:

Hoping one of you guys will know if that will clear on its own or not. 

My understanding is that inactive codes will clear after the engine goes through three heat/cool cycles.

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39 minutes ago, justgary said:

My understanding is that inactive codes will clear after the engine goes through three heat/cool cycles.

I have cleared the same code a few times and I have gone through several heat/cool cycles. The code does not clear itself, atleast in my boat it doesn’t. Sometimes the code will go from active to inactive, but never goes away.  Like I’ve said to other forum members, if you would like to borrow my scan tool to clear the code, let me know. Obviously you break it you buy it…lol 

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The dealer did get back to me and confirmed they will need to clear the code.  Thank you for the offer, I may just buy the scan tool myself. Seems like something that may come in handy since I plan on owning this boat for a while and will save me hundreds in gas going back and forth to the dealer.    I'm going to keep the tank above 1/4 and always try to avoid anything below 91/923 octane and see how it does. 

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1 hour ago, Jborges said:

The dealer did get back to me and confirmed they will need to clear the code.  Thank you for the offer, I may just buy the scan tool myself. Seems like something that may come in handy since I plan on owning this boat for a while and will save me hundreds in gas going back and forth to the dealer.    I'm going to keep the tank above 1/4 and always try to avoid anything below 91/923 octane and see how it does. 

Sounds good. That’s what I do and it doesn’t go into reduced power mode. 

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