Jump to content

Welcome to TheMalibuCrew!

As a guest, you are welcome to poke around and view the majority of the content that we have to offer, but in order to post, search, contact members, and get full use out of the website you will need to Register for an Account. It's free and it's easy, so don't hesitate to join the TheMalibuCrew Family today!

medallion gauges


Recommended Posts

hey malibu experts. i just sold my b52 and got a 2004 23lsv. when i got the boat the 4 gauge pod was not working. i searched on here and got the link to the medallion diagnostic download but all i can find is for the older style with the pito tubes. i found a small blurb on here on how to put the gauges into self test. i did that and got the volt gauge to read something but not the actual voltage, the fuel would sweep in a janky way and got the other 2 to vibrate a little after some percussive therapy. i have 2 questions for the crew. 1 with those results i think the gauge pod is bad as opposed to the computer controller and ordered a new pod, am i on the right track? 2 does anyone know how those gauges actually work? i am a pretty good wrench and have been working on cars, boats, bikes for years but for the life of me i cant figure out what makes those gauges work. as near as i can tell they have 2 ground wires and 2 different 7 volt inputs. what kind of black magic takes that and turns it into 4 signals for 4 different gauges.  normally i can test a gauge or a sender check for shorts and at least get an educated guess. i am at a loss here and had shotgunning parts. thanks for any help. 

Link to comment

They use a CANBUS to keep the signals on a one-wire system.  Try swapping  the connector from a working gauge like your tach or speedo to see if it is the box or the 4-1 gauge.  You can repair or replace the 4-1 gauge.

Link to comment

tach seems to be something different it is in the perfect pass and no 5 pin. i did hook up the spedo one and same results. there was also an extra 5 pin there in and that did nothing either there, i assume must have went to the non pp tack. i did not do the self test with the other 2 wires  was not sure how they worked but i will try that. my mechanical expertise ends with anything computer. i have heard the term canbus but have no idea what it means. sounds like i have a new youtube subject. thanks for the help gives me a good place to start learning. 

Link to comment

i looked at taking the gauge apart to do just that but it looked welded. if it turns out to be the control unit i will try that for sure. thanks for the input

 

Link to comment
  • 1 year later...

Has there been any action on this??

It looks like I'll be reverse engineering the mmdc (medallian-1600 gen 3) data frame this fall/winter, I was hoping I'd find some unfinished work to get me started. I intend to use a Raspberry Pi zero and an E-ink display with a momentary switch to toggle/cycle display options. So far I've found an example for the speedo.

Link to comment

Hi @skisky89

I'm trying to do the similar on an older medallion (yr 2000).  Are you trying to reverse engineer the serial gauge data or something else?  If serial gauge data then I think we can team up, it looks to me that the medallion docs show that the gauge interface is that same between 2004 and 2000.

I'm curious about your idea to use e-ink.  Isn't the refresh on those really slow and the whole display blanks to update

Link to comment

@proey

Yes, that's the plan. I'm thinking I can capture the serial data with wireshark. My idea is to start capturing with the boat cold and off, then start it up on the water hose and let it reach operating temp... then stop recording. We can ballpark data for engine temp, oil pressure, and voltage. Air/water temp will probably be ambient temp... I can fill up the gas tank for that bit of data. Perhaps we should establish a gitlab or github repo?

@Brad B

I hear yah, I have perfect pass for speed and RPM. I'm considering the stargazer add-on. Lacking a temperature & Fuel gauge makes me nervous. Does the stargazer pull that data for you?

I'm getting 7v at my gauges, and what appears to be data(cheap oscope.) They're just all dead. None of them reset/calibrate when I turn the ignition key. I'm also considering replacing the stepper motors in the gauges, I've chosen oil pressure as my guinea pig.

Link to comment

@proey

Forgot about the E-ink! They are slow, but excellent for readability in daylight(and cheap.) I've found a model of E-ink that supports a partial refresh at 4hz and a full refresh at 1hz. For most of the signals I'm lacking I don't need a high refresh rate, so I'm good with an E-Ink. If you're replacing speedo and RPM I'm sure you'll want some sort of LCD with a high nit rating.

 

Link to comment

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...