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Dripless Shaft Seal Leaking


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My drive shaft is leaking at the seal on my 2010 lsv.  900 hours on the boat and I'm the original owner.  I believe I have a dripless one as there is a hose coming from the starboard exhaust manifold.  The water is running out at a steady pace out from the bottom of the drive shaft at the seal.  I can also grab the seal coupling (white plastic part) and there is a little play on the shaft.  Does someone sell the same oem seal kit, or should I replace with a OJ one?  Sounds like its a pain to get to with not a lot of room to work under the v-drive.

Is this the best option for a replacement?   https://www.bakesonline.com/oj-flex-gland-drip-less-seal-kit-for-1-18-inch-shafts.html

Thanks

 

 

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Posted (edited)
10 hours ago, onamission said:

I just picked one up from Discount Inboard Marine .  $86.00

Excellent. Sounds like thats what most people replace it with?  What do I do with the tube? Just plug the manifold where it connects?

Edited by mikesop
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You can just replace the internal OJ seal for like $30.00. Same PITA process, you are just saving the extra $50. When you do replace it, be sure to use the provide prop shaft thread cover so you don’t scuff up the new seal. My new OEM seal had a slightly smaller OD than the original so it leaked a little after replacement. I had to slide off the  blue housing cap, pull the snap ring retainer and wiggle out the new seal. I then used some 3M silicone on the OD and pressed it back in. Let it cure and viola! 

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Im trying to install a new OJ right now on my 22mxz and cant seem to get enough room to get a socket on the flange nut.  Do I need to cut the old seal housing off the shaft?

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I managed to get it now working on getting the flange loose.  I was able to pull on the prop enough to get a few inches gap.

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You are going to need to block the prop against the trailer with a wooden block to be able to remove the prop nut from the shaft. If you can block on the side of the prop instead of the tip you won’t have to worry about messing up the prop. 

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Ok Ive gotten the nut off, that was the easy part.  Ive got the nut threaded on partially and a socket in between the two flanges.  Using two longer 7/16 bolts 180 degrees apart I cant seem to get the flange to budge.  I guess maybe 4 bolts would be better?  Im measuring the gap with some calipers trying to keep the gap even during the tightening.

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4 would be better, but 2 will work. It just takes a little more effort is all. A heat gun, not a torch💥and little tapping might help. When it comes off it will come screaming off so leave your self some room to react. 

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I really wanted to heat it with my torch but figured that was a bad idea 12” from the fuel tank.  Ill try again with 4 bolts tomorrow.  Im a bit concerned about damaging the v-drive output flange.

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Shouldn’t be a problem. It should be a good grade steel considering it’s application. You should be smacking the shaft flange to loosen it up and any misdirected strikes to the output flange should be minimal and minor. I have used the same process on 2 different boats without any issues.

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I finally got the new OJ shaft seal in.  It took all 4 flange bolts and it finally popped loose.  The rest of the job wasn't too bad.  Had to use my iPhone to take pics where I couldn't see.

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