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One Thing Leads to Another - Now brake lines


iliketoski

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1 hour ago, spikew919 said:

Well heck if your that technical. When seal is broken on bottle then it’s contaminated. Hope you buy new every time. 🤦🏻‍♂️

Well, yes. For personal use, I pick up what I expect to use for that given service. Not a fan of letting a moisture-sucking fluid sitting around between uses. But hay, it beats rebuilding the entire brake system every time its due for pads because the fluid is contaminated :rofl:

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1 hour ago, spikew919 said:

I was referring to this. Not sure why anyone would do this. 

Me neither, but thats not the post you quoted. Was not advocating gravity bleeding, simply defining it while looking for a clarification on reversed bleeding.  

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1 hour ago, MLA said:

Well, yes. For personal use, I pick up what I expect to use for that given service. Not a fan of letting a moisture-sucking fluid sitting around between uses. But hay, it beats rebuilding the entire brake system every time its due for pads because the fluid is contaminated :rofl:

I’m not sure your grasping it. Can we agree the only dirty oil is at behind pistons?  When  I do the reverse bleed way  I loosen bleeder and compress pads eliminating the dirty fluid. That’s step 1, then use the syringe to push fluid all the way up. Then move on to next. Believe me I have been bleeding brakes fir 35+ years and never has a master cylinder failure. Also works on hydraulic clutch systems. 

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19 hours ago, spikew919 said:

Then move on to next. Believe me I have been bleeding brakes fir 35+ years and never has a master cylinder failure. Also works on hydraulic clutch systems. 

Is this also the way you do your Dodge Ram Brakes? I have had anti-lock units go out. I was told it was from compressing the calipers for new pads without releasing the bleeders. I now always release the bleeders as I compress the calipers.

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1 hour ago, Sparky450 said:

Is this also the way you do your Dodge Ram Brakes? I have had anti-lock units go out. I was told it was from compressing the calipers for new pads without releasing the bleeders. I now always release the bleeders as I compress the calipers.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=t8b8pGAqLJw

 

yep even abs systems 

Edited by spikew919
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On 12/8/2020 at 1:37 PM, oldjeep said:

Jeebus LOL.  If it makes you feel better, do it your way.  Not sure I understand why you care which way the fluid goes, but the reverse bleed works fine for me and results in rock hard brakes that I trust up to 140MPH.  I've done it a variety of ways over the last 30+ years, pushing on the pedal with a friend at the bleeder, the jar on the bleeder, my motive power bleeder, vacuum bleeders.  This is the best way for me so far - basically a bucks worth of hose and a plastic syringe you could get at the farm store.

I'm totally familiar with your method ... lol but only because it's "how you do it" on mountain bike hydro brakes. I was trying to envision how you get enough fluid into the syringe... but now I see you use "giant syringe."  do you have a pic of the size you are using?

I've always outsourced my trailer brakes but I think I could give this approach a go if I had the right setup.  What do you do to prevent overflow at the master cylinder / actuator? (my bike kit has a cool little shot glass sized funnel that screws into the master cylinder on the brake lever to catch the overflow)

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The syringe is about 1 inch diameter and 6 inches long.  You just push and then close the bleeder when the mc is getting full, then suck out the mc with another syringe.  On a motorcycle I just start with the mc empty and one syringe is plenty to fill the caliper, lines and mc.  On the front where I have 2 calipers I only push a little fluid to the mc on the first one and then push the second very slowly so that the air comes through the t.

On trailer and car brakes you just push some fluid, close bleeder and check mc level periodically then do it some more.  I find that this makes a lot  less mess than the motive power bleeder I used to use most frequently.

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13 hours ago, shawndoggy said:

I'm totally familiar with your method ... lol but only because it's "how you do it" on mountain bike hydro brakes. I was trying to envision how you get enough fluid into the syringe... but now I see you use "giant syringe."  do you have a pic of the size you are using?

I've always outsourced my trailer brakes but I think I could give this approach a go if I had the right setup.  What do you do to prevent overflow at the master cylinder / actuator? (my bike kit has a cool little shot glass sized funnel that screws into the master cylinder on the brake lever to catch the overflow)

That Shimano bleed cup is pretty sweet.  

 

A turkey baster is my go to weapon of choice remove excess fluid from the master cylinder reservoir.  

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13 hours ago, NMMalibuFamily said:

I just came here to learn how to bleed brakes. Any good suggestions how to do that?

Example:  

  Dexter brakes has lots of videos on this.  I never have done mine but yet I do my own mountain bike brakes.  Go figure.

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20 hours ago, oldjeep said:

The syringe is about 1 inch diameter and 6 inches long.  You just push and then close the bleeder when the mc is getting full, then suck out the mc with another syringe.  On a motorcycle I just start with the mc empty and one syringe is plenty to fill the caliper, lines and mc.  On the front where I have 2 calipers I only push a little fluid to the mc on the first one and then push the second very slowly so that the air comes through the t.

On trailer and car brakes you just push some fluid, close bleeder and check mc level periodically then do it some more.  I find that this makes a lot  less mess than the motive power bleeder I used to use most frequently.

I use the motive power bleeder on my cars and trailer:

 

https://www.motiveproducts.com/collections/import-power-bleeder-kits

 

One person operation and makes it so simple. 

 

 

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