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2019 VLX Upgrade


Try2paz

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The time has come to rid myself of this DSP system.

I’m a bit frustrated with the Malibu audio interface I miss my old bt-420 from my lsv. It seems a constant balance based on the song. 
 

Ordered so far:

dsp tower and boat adapters from exile audio

plan:

keep the system a two amp boat.

Amp 1:

https://www.wakemakers.com/wet-sounds-rev-10-pair-tower-speaker-package.html
 

Remove icon rev 8 for rev 10s mounted to the g3.5 tower. 
 

amp 2:

https://www.wakemakers.com/wet-sounds-syn-dx6-6-channel-amplifier.html

cabin speakers would stay factory wet sounds.

sub:

It’s a free air enclosure in the vlx. This is a driveway swap so building a box isnt in the cards right now.

https://www.jlaudio.com/collections/m7-marine-audio-subwoofers/products/m7-12ib-s-gwgw-i-4-marine-audio-subwoofers-93672

The reviews are limited on this sub but I’ve always had good luck with JL products. The purest will shun me for considering a free air sub.

Has anyone done any voltage Injectors to help the oem system?

thoughts? Keep in mind this is a garage swap with three kids so time is limited 

 

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I am doing the same to my 2020 23 MXZ. I added 2 icons to my existing icons, 2.3 amp to run those, syn6 for cabin speakers and JL HD750 for a W6 sub.  I built the ported box.  But remember your stereo warranty will be voided if you cut any wires. I had a guy on the forum build me all the connectors I need to avoid voiding my warranty. 

I know you don’t want to build a box, but I have never liked free air subs. And that JL is a stupid expensive sub, more then a W6 which is considered one of the best subs on the market. The box literally took me a couple hours to build. 
 

I have some subs for sale if your interested. I have the stock 12 Rev that came with my boat and a 12” Diamond Hex 12. 
 

For most the stock system works, but it never satisfied the family. And I have no idea what voltage injectors are so can’t help you there. Nothing helped my system sound better. 

Edited by dwc032
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https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item-15363-JL-Audio-CL-RLC-Remote-Level-Control-Line-Driver.html

line drivers there are a few different versions out there. In short the stock deck produced 2.5v of pre-out. I’ve been out of the stereo Game for a while so don’t quote me on it being exactly 2.5.

the general rule is that amps like 4v 

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Hey I did everything you want to do.  Except for that sub   2019 21vlx

 

i used exile adapters.  Replaced factory amp cab/sub amp witg a jl xd1000.5. I put in 2 revs 10 and put a zapco 420 amp at them. They rock

 

 

i have a 2 JL RLCs one using rcas as a line driver for the zapco and one for the sub.  This allowed me to completely kill sub/ tower speakers.  
 

the jl1000.5 rocks those wet sounds in cabins speakers.  I wired them the same as stock. 2 channel is the 2 fronts. And other 2 channel  is the 4 rears.  You can verify which is which witg an ohm meter across leads 

 

 

I don’t recommend you use that JL marine sub.  It says it needs 3 cu ft. 
 

the stock free air sub blows so bad.  All it does is vibrate the crap out of the dash. No good sound.  I put in a Jl 12w6v3.  It’s such good sound quality.  I was able to squeeze the recommended size box under the dash. I always seem to have issue with uploading pix to this forum. I always need to attach a link?

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On 12/6/2020 at 6:12 AM, Reider said:

Hey I did everything you want to do.  Except for that sub   2019 21vlx

 

i used exile adapters.  Replaced factory amp cab/sub amp witg a jl xd1000.5. I put in 2 revs 10 and put a zapco 420 amp at them. They rock

 

 

i have a 2 JL RLCs one using rcas as a line driver for the zapco and one for the sub.  This allowed me to completely kill sub/ tower speakers.  
 

the jl1000.5 rocks those wet sounds in cabins speakers.  I wired them the same as stock. 2 channel is the 2 fronts. And other 2 channel  is the 4 rears.  You can verify which is which witg an ohm meter across leads 

 

 

I don’t recommend you use that JL marine sub.  It says it needs 3 cu ft. 
 

the stock free air sub blows so bad.  All it does is vibrate the crap out of the dash. No good sound.  I put in a Jl 12w6v3.  It’s such good sound quality.  I was able to squeeze the recommended size box under the dash. I always seem to have issue with uploading pix to this forum. I always need to attach a link?

$25 membership and post direct, if lots of pictures at one time may need to select smaller versions, select one or two at a time then no issues

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On 12/9/2020 at 9:33 PM, Ingineer66 said:

What are you doing with the stock Rev 8s and amp?  

Keeping it until I sell the boat and then i'll swap back. This is my 3rd wetsounds boat and it's getting expensive.

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Update:

I'll get pictures posted once it's sunny out. It's been raining in NorCal.

I ran the wetsounds 420 eq's in previous boats and appreciated the simplicity of volume control and quickly. I found that getting the Malibu fader for tower / boat was annoying. Id spend time tapping to get it just right and if the rider fell would almost start all over. 

Instead of doing line boosters out of the factory deck, I removed those controls and went with the Wetsounds 420 BT again. 

For the Sub I ended up with the JLW6V3 in a ported box. I removed the sub from the wall and and put in a ported box about 1/2 inch behind the opening to let the sub breath through the factory opening. I mounted the factory grill with a mesh screen to the original opening so it looks like its mounted there. This greatly improved the overall sub output in the boat. It also drastically reduced the number of rattles by removing the sub from the wall that was attached to the dash.

Amps... Wetsounds Syn 6 for boat / sub, and for tower 2.3HP to a pair of Rev10's.

My next step long term is to take the controls out on the left and graft a WS-MC-1 unit there and add Led's to the boat.

 

 

 

 

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