Car sub/speakers in a boat?

[dhcomp]

I’ve always run car audio stuff. Most of thr high end speakers are splash proof, and if my amp or sub gets wet, I have a bigger problem than just wet stereo gear. 
 

 

[DOJOLOACH2]

Not sure if anyone is interested but I'll post it here for others to see my progress. Unfortunately I can't fit a sealed Qbomb or any other premade sub box under my echelon dash, let alone side firing so I plan to make my own out of mdf or spruce pine. After taking measurements unless I build the box inside the dash cavity I can not make it side firing so it will be direct radiating towards the driver, sealed. I want to make minimal modifications to the boat so no cutting the kick panel is allowed.  I also have a battery back behind the kick panel I'll need access to in emergencies on the lake so this thing needs to be removable. Internal volume of this box is less than 1% different from the recommendation in the speaker manual.

It should be around 40 lbs. with the Sub installed. I also am going to try and place a rocker switch panel and a drain plug to the right of the sub which you can see on the pic below, this will be for the interior lights, transom plug led, and of course the essential led cup holders, leaving two vacant switches. I'm considering wiring the sub amp signal wire to one of the switches. Not sure how that would affect sound quality though.

Haven't decided on a product to coat the thing with for waterproof quite yet but the plan is to put matching carpet on the front of the box with a "3 bar" speaker grille I ordered off amazon.

 

 

 

 

[MLA]

3 minutes ago, DOJOLOACH2 said:

I'm considering wiring the sub amp signal wire to one of the switches. Not sure how that would affect sound quality though

Wont effect sound quality while the amp is one, but you may likely get turn on/off thump. Id go with some sort of sub level controller so you can just turn the volume down/up, rather then turning the amp off/on. 

[DOJOLOACH2]

1 hour ago, MLA said:

Wont effect sound quality while the amp is one, but you may likely get turn on/off thump. Id go with some sort of sub level controller so you can just turn the volume down/up, rather then turning the amp off/on. 

Thanks for the tip on that. I'll see how the turn on/off thump is and go from there, I've seen those controllers pretty cheap. Also I see that you are in the Lake Wylie area, same here. 

[DOJOLOACH2]

On 1/27/2021 at 9:48 AM, MLA said:

Wont effect sound quality while the amp is one, but you may likely get turn on/off thump. Id go with some sort of sub level controller so you can just turn the volume down/up, rather then turning the amp off/on. 

Got any models you could link me? I've scoured amazon and found some cheap ones as well as a JL version for 50 bucks on crutchfild. Some models dont eliminate all signal to the amp when dialed down completely though, Which I assume is critical.

Makes me wonder if I should put a volume adjustment know going from the head unit to the first amp (for towers) as well. 

Edited April 6, 2021 by DOJOLOACH2

[DOJOLOACH2]

What yall think?!!! The thing booms!!!

Had to redo the box woofer seal so added an additional mdf ring in black. Fits like a glove in there.

Bolted a piece of L bracket to prevent it from tipping, although it fits so tight i doubt its needed! I know its not oem fitment but i can take it out for servicing or selling with ease... Might mount the fire extinguishter on the left gap

Took MLA's advice and bought an amp volume knob.

[DOJOLOACH2]

Going to add 4x cabin speakers now, very budget so looking at 2x kicker 6.5" for the back bench and 2x 4" kickers for the front dash area.

Yall think i can get it to sound OK using my head units mosfet amplifier rated at 4x 22wRMS 50w peak?

Speakers specs are 2-50w RMS.

Im also outputting to a 4 channel and mono amp from the head unit.

Also looking into using the 4 channel and bridging the tower speakers together

[MLA]

1 hour ago, DOJOLOACH2 said:

Going to add 4x cabin speakers now, very budget so looking at 2x kicker 6.5" for the back bench and 2x 4" kickers for the front dash area.

Yall think i can get it to sound OK using my head units mosfet amplifier rated at 4x 22wRMS 50w peak?

Speakers specs are 2-50w RMS.

Im also outputting to a 4 channel and mono amp from the head unit.

Also looking into using the 4 channel and bridging the tower speakers together

From a sound quality standpoint, id steer clear of a speaker with a smaller .5" "W" or hybrid tweeter and opt for a model with the larger .75 full dome tweeter. 

Why a 4" speaker? 

[jjackkrash]

On 4/17/2021 at 4:19 PM, DOJOLOACH2 said:

Had to redo the box woofer seal so added an additional mdf ring in black. Fits like a glove in there.

I sounds like it turned out great!

(My one word of caution is be super careful keeping MDF dry in a marine environment.  Water/moisture + MDF = mush.)  

Edited April 21, 2021 by jjackkrash

[DOJOLOACH2]

11 hours ago, jjackkrash said:

I sounds like it turned out great!

(My one word of caution is be super careful keeping MDF dry in a marine environment.  Water/moisture + MDF = mush.)  

I'm hoping my enamel paint and silicone keep it away, if not I'll probably just stash a manufactured box down there that is more resistant. But yeah as it stands It is fantastic upgrade so far just listening on the trailer!

12 hours ago, MLA said:

From a sound quality standpoint, id steer clear of a speaker with a smaller .5" "W" or hybrid tweeter and opt for a model with the larger .75 full dome tweeter. 

Why a 4" speaker? 

I picked 4" because I was limited on space in the drivers seat and observers seat, You literally can't hear a thing even with the tower speakers blasting, meanwhile the people on the bench are screaming at eachother.

Was going to do 2x 6.5" on the back bench gunnel walls.

What do you recommend for the front? I was thinking I could mount rectangular profile speakers under the windshield or the 4" circular ones, Any tips on mounting location? 

[DOJOLOACH2]

Double post but found these 6.5" for the rear, although I read the mount bolts are in a different pattern to some... 1" tweeters on these Kenwoods

https://www.amazon.com/Kenwood-KFC-1653MRW-2-Way-Marine-Speakers/dp/B00U7RW0B8/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=6.5"+marine+speakers&qid=1619045638&sr=8-4

Any thoughts on trying a budget amp off amazon? If it ended up being crap I could just wire the speakers to the head unit 

https://www.amazon.com/Blaupunkt-1500W-4-Channel-Full-Range-Amplifier/dp/B0742N9CGN/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=4+channel+amplifier&qid=1619046326&sr=8-4

[DOJOLOACH2]

On 4/20/2021 at 10:10 PM, MLA said:

From a sound quality standpoint, id steer clear of a speaker with a smaller .5" "W" or hybrid tweeter and opt for a model with the larger .75 full dome tweeter. 

Why a 4" speaker? 

Just got a box of goodies in the mail,

4x Kenwood KMR 1653MRW 6.5" coaxial... These got 1" tweeters and 50w RMS rating

Skar audio SK-M5004 class D amp, rated to put out 85w RMS per channel... Hopefully these are enough!

Still undecided about the 2 front speaker locations though, I really don't have any room to put them on the gunnel vinyl walls. I've got a vent cover nudged up next to the windshield with 2 screws holding them in, debating removing these and making a triangular profile speaker mount plate but prefer something less intrusive