Jump to content

Welcome to TheMalibuCrew!

As a guest, you are welcome to poke around and view the majority of the content that we have to offer, but in order to post, search, contact members, and get full use out of the website you will need to Register for an Account. It's free and it's easy, so don't hesitate to join the TheMalibuCrew Family today!

Winterization Concerns


Recommended Posts

This is my first year winterizing our new to us 2008 VLX with the 320 LCR.  I changed the oil/filter like normal and drained almost all of the water from the engine (J hose, exhaust, water pump, transmission cooler hose, block).  I could not get the hose off either side at the V-Drive no matter how mad I got at them haha, so a little water was left in the system from the intake to the raw water pump.  I ran 3 gallons of antifreeze through and fogged the engine through the intake (no cats).  

Since I knew there was water left in the system I was worried about the antifreeze (-50 degree  propylene glycol) being diluted.  I took a really small sample (5 oz or so) from the block and stuck it in my freezer and it froze absolutely solid!!!   Now, I know there is a difference between freezing point and bursting point and it was also a small sample, so should I be worried about this damaging the motor?  I don't expect the temperature to ever get below 0 degrees here in North Arkansas.

I was also considering getting a refractometer and testing it just to be sure.  Again, this is my first year with the boat so I can't help but be a little dramatic when it comes to my maintenance.

Edited by WooPig
Link to post

I had the EXACT same situation as you last year. I could not get the dang transmission cooler hose off either side of mine either. I drained everywhere else and ran 5 gallons of antifreeze through it as well and had no issues with our NC winter. I'm winterizing mine this weekend and was going to use the same approach but I have wondered if filling the block manually with antifreeze vs running it through my pro flush would be the better way to go. I didn't go as far as testing a sample of my diluted antifreeze in the freezer like you did as I figured lightly diluted antifreeze was ok and better than pure water....plus it doesn't ever get that cold for long stretches in NC. The other option I've considered since I have a pro flush was to skip draining anything and just run the boat on water to get the temp up and thermostats open and then flip the valve to my bucket of antifreeze and let it run through the whole system. My guess is that you'll still end up with some sort of diluted mixture of water and antifreeze but who knows. I'm curious to hear what the feedback on here will be though. 

Link to post

The only reason that I ever disconnect the hose coming into the v-drive unit pass-through is when I use an adapter hose with a threaded inlet for a garden hose, and a cut-off valve, for bringing the engine up to operating temperature (home-made, put together with components from Home Depot and an auto parts store).  But, I often don't even use my adapter, opting instead to take the boat out for a spin prior to oil change and winterization.

In order to empty water pooled in that transmission pass-through, I disconnect the hose coming into the raw water pump and blow out that segment from that end.  19 seasons and I have yet to have a problem, but, then again, I live in south Texas, so warmer climes than you are dealing with.

The transmission cooler, BTW, is located, on your boat, on the starboard (driver's) side, close to the engine block.  It is downstream from the raw water pump (follow that other/outlet hose on around until you find the cylindrical cooler), as water is being circulated, at that point, upwards towards the main water pump and thermostat housing.

FWIW, I have a pdf file for winterizing an Indmar engine of your boat's vintage, complete with a step-by-step guide with photographs.  PM me with an email address and I'll be happy to send it.

Good luck.

Link to post
2 hours ago, srab said:

The only reason that I ever disconnect the hose coming into the v-drive unit pass-through is when I use an adapter hose with a threaded inlet for a garden hose, and a cut-off valve, for bringing the engine up to operating temperature (home-made, put together with components from Home Depot and an auto parts store).  But, I often don't even use my adapter, opting instead to take the boat out for a spin prior to oil change and winterization.

In order to empty water pooled in that transmission pass-through, I disconnect the hose coming into the raw water pump and blow out that segment from that end.  19 seasons and I have yet to have a problem, but, then again, I live in south Texas, so warmer climes than you are dealing with.

The transmission cooler, BTW, is located, on your boat, on the starboard (driver's) side, close to the engine block.  It is downstream from the raw water pump (follow that other/outlet hose on around until you find the cylindrical cooler), as water is being circulated, at that point, upwards towards the main water pump and thermostat housing.

FWIW, I have a pdf file for winterizing an Indmar engine of your boat's vintage, complete with a step-by-step guide with photographs.  PM me with an email address and I'll be happy to send it.

Good luck.

Says you can't receive messages for some reason.

Link to post

Did you disconnect the hose at the raw water pump inlet and hold it at the bottom of the bilge?  If so, that drained most of it.   The V-drive is a pass through and doesn't hold much more than if it was just a hose.

RV antifreeze will freeze in the freezer but doesn't expand.  I saw a good youtube video and experiment where RV antifreeze can be diluted up to 50% before it bursts it's container in the freezer.   You should be good to go.

Link to post
21 minutes ago, goodmatt78 said:

Did you disconnect the hose at the raw water pump inlet and hold it at the bottom of the bilge?  If so, that drained most of it.   The V-drive is a pass through and doesn't hold much more than if it was just a hose.

RV antifreeze will freeze in the freezer but doesn't expand.  I saw a good youtube video and experiment where RV antifreeze can be diluted up to 50% before it bursts it's container in the freezer.   You should be good to go.

I did disconnect at the raw water pump and tried to shake all of the water out.  Unfortunately I didn't have a vacuum or air pump on hand or that may have finished it off.  I agree though that there shouldn't be much dilution when comparing to the 3 gallons of antifreeze I ran through.  I figured I was overthinking it...

Link to post
On 11/10/2020 at 1:47 PM, WooPig said:

I did disconnect at the raw water pump and tried to shake all of the water out.  Unfortunately I didn't have a vacuum or air pump on hand or that may have finished it off.  I agree though that there shouldn't be much dilution when comparing to the 3 gallons of antifreeze I ran through.  I figured I was overthinking it...

i had a thermostat problem, ultimately, that had me trying to find any blockages,  i couldn’t  get it off either,  i wonder if when that hose is disconnected at raw pump end whether it would have been easier  ?

Link to post
50 minutes ago, WooPig said:

I may just end up draining everything out and leaving it opened up for the winter.

Do not leave your block drains or v drive drain plugs out.  You will be very un happy when you go to try to put them back in the rusted threads

  • Like 2
Link to post

The first time I winterized our boat I spent waaaaaay too much time and frustration getting either hose off the VDrive. I ended up just loosening one of the anodes and draining it there.

I find it much easier. I just use a ratcheting wrench (can't get a socket in there) and its super quick.

 

It's also one less hose leak or loose hose clamp to check come spring.

 

But, draining at the water pump (like stated already) works also. My boat is usually unlevel, with the front being lower, so it doesnt work so well. Still, another hose and hose clamp to check in the spring.

Edited by YeloBlammo
Link to post

Any have a line to the pdf srab mentions above?

I keep seeing it being mentioned but cant seem to find a working link. Just bought a 2008 23 lsv with the 340 monsoon. I had a buddy who works at the Malibu dealer a state away run me through the process but would love to document as a reference for next season.

Link to post
37 minutes ago, aus10eww said:

Any have a line to the pdf srab mentions above?

I keep seeing it being mentioned but cant seem to find a working link. Just bought a 2008 23 lsv with the 340 monsoon. I had a buddy who works at the Malibu dealer a state away run me through the process but would love to document as a reference for next season.

I've got it as a document on my computer.  If you'll PM me with an email address, I'll be happy to send it on.

Link to post
On 11/19/2020 at 6:06 PM, srab said:

I've got it as a document on my computer.  If you'll PM me with an email address, I'll be happy to send it on.

It’s a pdf on how to properly winterize a 2008 23LSV?

Link to post
9 hours ago, Eddy said:

It’s a pdf on how to properly winterize a 2008 23LSV?

Nope.  On how to properly winterize an Indmar Monsoon Engine, circa 2003. 

No significant difference between a 2003 Monsoon and my 2006 LCR, though (the LCR has no knock sensor, and the flame arrestor is slightly different in appearance; everything else is identical). 

I strongly suspect the same could be said for a 2008, and well beyond.

Link to post

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...