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HELP - 2004 Wakesetter VLX - Changing Fluids


NClakelife

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Hello,

Being a new Malibu owner, I'm learning how to make repairs / modifications with the help of the CREW!!

Getting ready to change the fluids for the first time since owning, the weather in NC is about to get chilly and only have a couple weeks left before she's stored for the winter. 

What do you recommend:

1)  Oil filter (part # if you have it)

2) Oil  (full synthetic)

3)  Transmission Fluid (do I drain this or just top it off)

4)  V-Drive Oil (do I drain this or just top it off)

Appreciate all you help... First attempt doing this, so any tips/tricks would be great appreciated. :)

Thank you

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1)  I can't help here, since I have an aftermarket remote oil filter that uses a Ford style and is a completely different model than OEM.

2)  My non-synthetic 2 cents: use Chevron Delo 400 SDE SAE 15W-40 and change every 50 hours and at end of season.

3)  If you haven't done it yet, definitely drain and add new Dexron VI fully synthetic or whatever you prefer.  Dexron VI is backwards compatible with III.  I use a pump like this...can't beat the price.  I drain and refill on 2 year intervals.

4)  Drail (or suction out) and refill with fully synthetic marine oil, such as Amsoil marine gear lube AGMQT-EA.  I drain and refill on 3 year intervals.

You didn't ask, but I'll offer it as unsolicited advice: change your impeller and spark plugs.  If the cap, rotor, and wires are all stock I'd bite the bullet and budget for them very soon as preventive maintenance.  Coil too, if you've still got the basic Delco one.  You'll be mad that you didn't when it ruins your day on the lake.

 

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Huge thanks. 

Motor - Indmar Monsoon 340 

Did new spark plugs 48 hours ago. 

Do you suggest I warm the engine up first, probably easier to drain / suction out?

 
 

 

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Wix 57099 or Napa Gold 7099 would work if you have a 5.7 L engine.   I don't warm my engine - just come back in 1 hour and it will be all drained out

Edited by SkiPablo
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I use a NAPA gold 1069 oil filter for my monsoon.  if you are using an oil extractor (which I highly recommend for a v drive) especially for the tranny and v-drive fluid, I would warm the oil.  I had issues trying to extract all of my oil when it was cold, and couldn't get it to drain out of the bottom based on my configuration.

I used drain old fashioned way through the hull drain plug when I had my direct drive, but the oil extractor makes it much easier for the v-drive.  I extract through the oil pan drain plug, not the dipstick.

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If you have a air compressor, this is a handy unit:
https://www.harborfreight.com/6-1-4-quarter-gallon-oil-extractor-46149.html

I've had this thing for 5 years and I use it all the time.  

I agree with formulaben on the synthetic mentality.  I have the same motor as you, 500+ hours.  I use the Delo 25-40 and a quart of Lucas Oil Stabilizer.

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On 11/2/2020 at 4:39 PM, formulaben said:

 

On 11/2/2020 at 4:39 PM, formulaben said:

1)  I can't help here, since I have an aftermarket remote oil filter that uses a Ford style and is a completely different model than OEM.

2)  My non-synthetic 2 cents: use Chevron Delo 400 SDE SAE 15W-40 and change every 50 hours and at end of season.

3)  If you haven't done it yet, definitely drain and add new Dexron VI fully synthetic or whatever you prefer.  Dexron VI is backwards compatible with III.  I use a pump like this...can't beat the price.  I drain and refill on 2 year intervals.

4)  Drail (or suction out) and refill with fully synthetic marine oil, such as Amsoil marine gear lube AGMQT-EA.  I drain and refill on 3 year intervals.

You didn't ask, but I'll offer it as unsolicited advice: change your impeller and spark plugs.  If the cap, rotor, and wires are all stock I'd bite the bullet and budget for them very soon as preventive maintenance.  Coil too, if you've still got the basic Delco one.  You'll be mad that you didn't when it ruins your day on the lake.

 

As to #4...My Walter Vdrive calls for straight 30 weight and I know Indmar also says you can run 10w-40 in it.  
 

Do just run the thicker gear oil that because of heavy ballast? I didn’t see Walter Vdrive on the list on Amsoil’s webpage. 

Edited by RedWakesetterVLX
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26 minutes ago, RedWakesetterVLX said:

As to #4...My Walter Vdrive calls for straight 30 weight and I know Indmar also says you can run 10w-40 in it.  
 

Do just run the thicker gear oil that because of heavy ballast? I didn’t see Walter Vdrive on the list on Amsoil’s webpage. 

I run a marine specific gear oil since it is far more tolerant of water (up to 15%), which is a distinct possibility given that the v-drive unit is water cooled and also like that the Amsoil is fully synthetic.  Although it says "75W-90" don't (as I did) confuse SAE oil viscosity with SAE gear oil viscosity, as it's basically the same as a 30W oil.  If you reference the chart below you'll see that 30W engine oil translates to 85W gear oil.

 

oil-Viscosity-full.gif

Edited by formulaben
  • Like 1
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6 minutes ago, formulaben said:

I run a marine specific gear oil since it is far more tolerant of water (up to 15%), which is a distinct possibility given that the v-drive unit is water cooled and also like that the Amsoil is fully synthetic.  Although it says "75W-90" don't (as I did) confuse SAE oil viscosity with SAE gear oil viscosity, as it's basically the same as a 30W oil.  If you reference the chart below you'll see that 30W engine oil translates to 85W gear oil.

 

oil-Viscosity-full.gif

 After I read your initial post I started to research this and found this same chart.  I was definitely uneducated on gear oil viscosity.   I will definitely swap my SAE 30 with the Amsoil Marine gear oil after the end of next season.  Good info. 

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