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Winterization help!


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2016 20vtx with raptor 410

what size is the plug on the transmission anode, and any techniques to remove the T plug, I think it was put in when the boat was new and never removed.  Please help!

3E964FF0-D379-44BC-B431-518C5EF0F47C.jpeg

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2 hours ago, LakePTDoc said:

2016 20vtx with raptor 410

what size is the plug on the transmission anode, and any techniques to remove the T plug, I think it was put in when the boat was new and never removed.  Please help!

3E964FF0-D379-44BC-B431-518C5EF0F47C.jpeg

I recently had to remove the frozen T handle drain plugs. After lots of failed attempts at prying, PB blaster and other tricks I found on the forums, the handle broke. Once that happened it was very easy to get a socket with a long extension and a breaker bar on it. Came right out. It was so easy I just cut the handle on the other one with a Dremel. Ordered new ones from Bakes and will make sure to periodically remove them in the future.  

Edited by Philip
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9 minutes ago, Philip said:

I recently had to remove the frozen T handle drain plugs. After lots of failed attempts at prying, PB blaster and other tricks I found on the forums, the handle broke. Once that happened it was very easy to get a socket with a long extension and a breaker bar on it. Came right out. It was so easy I just cut the handle on the other one with a Dremel. Ordered new ones from Bakes and will make sure to periodically remove them in the future.  

Not sure why they would not be reomved annually?

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10 hours ago, Eagleboy99 said:

T-plug should have flats for a wrench.

They do but can’t get a big enough wrench on it to get added torque due to placement near the bilge, ballast pumps, and gas tank.  Tried a bit and it felt like it was trying to round off the flats.  So for now just removed the water by hand.

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9 hours ago, Philip said:

Well the boat is new to us. I don’t think they were ever removed. They will be going forward. 

Same here.  I am not sure some owners know to remove them, and once it gets stuck, they leave them in.

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9 hours ago, Philip said:

I recently had to remove the frozen T handle drain plugs. After lots of failed attempts at prying, PB blaster and other tricks I found on the forums, the handle broke. Once that happened it was very easy to get a socket with a long extension and a breaker bar on it. Came right out. It was so easy I just cut the handle on the other one with a Dremel. Ordered new ones from Bakes and will make sure to periodically remove them in the future.  

I may have to try that, the hard part may be cutting off the T handle while it is still in the boat.

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Yea. A Dremel made short work of it. Took about 30 seconds. Cut it as close to the bolt as possible so you can easily get a socket on it. Otherwise You may need a deep socket. You can still use the plugs until new one come in if needed. You will just need to reinstall them the same way you take them out. 

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2 minutes ago, ahopkinsVTX said:

I wonder if there is someway you could use an easy out from the bottom? Or reverse tap a bolt into the bottom of the plug somehow and then use a wrench to spin it out that way.

I am not sure.  I think these are still tapered so not sure how that would work.

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Too bad they don’t put a hex socket in the bottom of the plug, so when this happens you just put a large Allen wrench on the plug under the boat and break the seal that way.

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ahopkins22LSV
2 minutes ago, LakePTDoc said:

Too bad they don’t put a hex socket in the bottom of the plug, so when this happens you just put a large Allen wrench on the plug under the boat and break the seal that way.

That’s basically what I was thinking You could do with an easy out or some other method.

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2 hours ago, LakePTDoc said:

They do but can’t get a big enough wrench on it to get added torque due to placement near the bilge, ballast pumps, and gas tank.  Tried a bit and it felt like it was trying to round off the flats.  So for now just removed the water by hand.

Use a crowfoot.

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5 hours ago, Eagleboy99 said:

Use a crowfoot.

+1 

Use a long extension and a crowfoot or a basin wrench.  either should work. Also that is a gasketed plug, the gasket provides the seal, and the resistance to removal, it sticks to the brass without any thread lubricant.  I always use silicone plumbers grease in the spring on the T-handle plugs, and do not over tighten them, basically just like an oil filter, 1/4 past where it stops freely spinning.

 

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