Boat Lift and Storage Recommendations

[Ronnie]

My hoist is 120v. No issues.

[Sparky450]

12 hours ago, Eagleboy99 said:

220-240 is always better if you can swing it.

If I the motor pulls 15 amp at 120 it will only pull 7.5 at 220. If it is a long run voltage drop becomes a problem. Voltage drop is far less at 230 volt than 120. Another option would be to run larger wire to combat the voltage drop. 
If it is a long run to the breaker. I would upsize the wire any way. There are lots of voltage drop calculators on the web.  Also it takes the same number of wires for a 230 volt motor as a 110. So if you are running new anyway. It really isn’t a big deal. Another thought, if you pull 120 volt you could use that same circuit for incidentals on the dock.  

Edited October 16, 2020 by Sparky450

[BearCreekBum]

13 hours ago, cla10beck said:

Anyone have any thoughts on 110V or 220V question.  The lift manufacturer recommends running the motor on 220V, but it is only a 1HP motor and draws ~15 amps on 110V circuit.  That should be no problem for a 20 amp circuit with 12 gauge wiring.  Am I missing something?

 

It has been a while since doing any design work, but typical molded case breakers have a 20% tolerance (at least they used to) so it could trip on any load over 16 amps. I don't think a 1 HP motor will be near that but just something to keep in mind.

@Sparky450 is probably more versed than I am on the present rating of circuit breakers.

[pauley71]

1 hour ago, Sparky450 said:

If I the motor pulls 15 amp at 120 it will only pull 7.5 at 220. If it is a long run voltage drop becomes a problem. Voltage drop is far less at 230 volt than 120. Another option would be to run larger wire to combat the voltage drop. 
If it is a long run to the breaker. I would upsize the wire any way. There are lots of voltage drop calculators on the web.  Also it takes the same number of wires for a 230 volt motor as a 110. So if you are running new anyway. It really isn’t a big deal. Another thought, if you pull 120 volt you could use that same circuit for incidentals on the dock.  

Not sure I'd take advice from someone who handle is "Sparky" .. haha   j/k   ... but he's right, depends on the run.  Short run is probably fine at 120 but a longer run I would do 220.  My 1hp motor is 25ft run and is on a 20amp/120v.

[cla10beck]

Fortunately, the panel on the dock is only about 25 ft from where our motor would plug in, and I already have an outlet there so it is a relatively short run.  I thought it was a 20 amp circuit with 12 gauge, but now I will need to double check.  I agree 15amp circuit on 14 gauge would be undersized.  So if I need to run a new circuit, I might as well do 220.

@Pauley71,  what type of lift do you have and are you happy with it?  I see you are also on Lake Anna so probably one of the brands I am looking at.

[pauley71]

16 minutes ago, cla10beck said:

Fortunately, the panel on the dock is only about 25 ft from where our motor would plug in, and I already have an outlet there so it is a relatively short run.  I thought it was a 20 amp circuit with 12 gauge, but now I will need to double check.  I agree 15amp circuit on 14 gauge would be undersized.  So if I need to run a new circuit, I might as well do 220.

@Pauley71,  what type of lift do you have and are you happy with it?  I see you are also on Lake Anna so probably one of the brands I am looking at.

Ha .. didn't read the entire thread so missed that.  

I would call Steve West @ Shoreline Services.  My lift is an East Coast Boat lift - 7,000# - I started with one in 2005 (4k) then upgraded in 2016 (5.6k), then again in 2018.  Don't do what I did - haha

Where are you on LKA?

[Cole2001]

Go overkill with the lift railing. Much better off to start big than upgrade in a few years.  Should be able to get by with 8k and 120v. 

I had a hoist fail on me this summer damaging the boat, so I’m a bit hesitant now. Wasn’t my lift but definitely if you’re buying one I would go overkill. 

[cla10beck]

We are in the process of buying a place in the Lake Anna Plaza townhomes on the public side.  It is a good way for us to get a start into something lakefront with a covered dock.

I was thinking a 6k lift to start would get me through my current boat and my next boat.  I don't see myself getting into a surf monster as I still want something with a decent slalom wake.  A little history, we had a 98 Sunsetter for 11 years and upgraded to our current boat about 2 years ago so this was a big step up in terms of size and comfort.

@Cole2001, when you say the lift railing failed, was that the overhead beam that supports the cable, or the beam under the boat?  And do you know what caused it?

[pauley71]

5 minutes ago, cla10beck said:

We are in the process of buying a place in the Lake Anna Plaza townhomes on the public side.  It is a good way for us to get a start into something lakefront with a covered dock.

I was thinking a 6k lift to start would get me through my current boat and my next boat.  I don't see myself getting into a surf monster as I still want something with a decent slalom wake.  A little history, we had a 98 Sunsetter for 11 years and upgraded to our current boat about 2 years ago so this was a big step up in terms of size and comfort.

@Cole2001, when you say the lift railing failed, was that the overhead beam that supports the cable, or the beam under the boat?  And do you know what caused it?

Awesome .. I'm on the private/warm side but know exactly where that is.

With East coast they go 4k, 5.6k, 7k.  From 5.6k to 7k they go from a 4" I beam to a 6" I beam.  Most of the lifts on the lake are 120v.  My boat might get by with 5.6k since there are tolerances but when boats started getting bigger in 2018 I upgraded.  I get a new boat every year .. so I upgraded the lift (again).  At 7k, I should be good.  

Most of the time its a cable that breaks but I have a 4k lift in my other slip that still kicking 17 years later and never had an issue (also east coast).

If you need a Malibu dealer on the lake .. there isn't one (ha) but Dry Dock works with our territory Malibu dealer (Chessie) and so far they seem like good people.

[Cole2001]

1 hour ago, cla10beck said:

 

@Cole2001, when you say the lift railing failed, was that the overhead beam that supports the cable, or the beam under the boat?  And do you know what caused it?

Part of the problem the winch would not lift the boat all the way up evenly so we were told it’s fine as it’s out of the water and won’t go anywhere. Not the case.

To be honest I do not know exactly how it failed, the cables let loose and the boat fell into the water. Maintenance on these lifts definitely seemed to be lacking, that same day they put us on a side mount chain style one that wouldn’t go down and the battery’s on all of them are super weak. 

Honestly I should have known better and not taken the word of the guy at the Marina saying it was fine to leave it. We were definitely pushing the limits when I found out it was only a 6500lb lift but so is every other boat at the marina. At least they are covering repair cost. 

[The Hulk]

If lifting unlevel in a single motor setup, U may have been wrapping cable more than one layer on a side thus it would become uneven possibly.  That also frays cables or it may have bound depending on lift setup. If it layers over itself that makes it much more difficult to lift. If u had a cable winder and it did a second wrap it will cut the cable like butter pretty easily but also harder to get it that way unless something was wrong. 

At end of the day all these lifts are breaking the cable bend radius rules wrapping around pipe that's only 2-3/8" or sligthly bigger with cable winders.. granted infrequent use makes them last long enough. Cable winders save cables wear and increase bend radius larger.. so all these are already stressing the cables via small bend radius so using pulleys cuts that down big time for longevity.. 

Compounding greatly reducing cable wear and increasing lifting capacity in same motor/gear specs. Slower but safer and then change pulley ratios to Gain speed all back .. IMO is the best solution.. get cable/cradle sized large as possible, when u want to upgrade weight just change back to normal pulley ratios.. larger capacity may go larger cable which adding windersakes drum dia bigger to help in bend radius.. 

Biggest issue is always frequently check cables are not frayed and are on ALL pulleys and winding/unwinding nice and cleanly..

Getting off a pulley is one of largest reasons for breaking cables.. cables wear and dont last forever.. 

The only Lifts with 10+yr cable warranty are hydraulics that never wrap a cable just pull it around a 5" or larger pulley back and forth.. they are slick but 4-8X the price

 

Edited October 16, 2020 by The Hulk

[cla10beck]

Just closing the loop.  Thanks for the help from everyone.

I ended up getting a 6k compounded lift, but upgraded the motor from a 3/4 to a 1hp so I upgraded to 7k lbs.  I made sure to get the greaseable pulleys as someone recommended and decided to run a 220V line after talk with some neighbors and the lift manufacturer as my run was 60+ft.  (other neighbors had some issues lifting on 120v).  I also needed some modifications to the standard overhead beams which worked out well. 

If anyone is looking at a boathouse lift, I highly recommend Tom at AmericanPowerHoist.net.  He was super helpful, made the modifications needed, and shipped it to my door on the day I requested.

I also decided to store her on the lift for the winter.  I seems like almost everyone on our complex does the same thing.  Attached are the pictures of the lift along with her put away for the winter.

Edited December 1, 2020 by cla10beck
Forgot pictures