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2007 VLX Battery Relocation


gvb

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Currently have the stock single battery setup behind the observer seat.

I am adding a Blue Sea Systems 7650 Add-A-Battery Kit with second battery (two new Duralast 31M-AGM from AutoZone) and a Noco dual bank charger... because that storage area is typically the only one that gets used in my boat (bags, food, etc.) I'd like to keep it as open as possible.

Was thinking about relocating new batteries, switch, ACR, etc. to the under seat storage behind the driver and cooler... this is a spot that I'll never use for the storage of anything else, and it gets more weight on the goofy side of the boat (big plus!)

The cables for the dash bus appear to be long enough that I could just pull them back to the dash and fish them down the side of the boat to get them where I want.  I was thinking that I could take the 2/0 cables from the starter/engine ground and re-route those to the new battery location and use them to run to a distribution block for amps (which will stay mounted where they are behind the observer seat), and then have new shorter 2/0 cables made for the starter/engine ground.

The only issue I see is leaving the oversized 2/0 run where it is and trying to find a distribution block that will take 2/0 in and #4 out for the amps.

Thoughts?

 IMG_5114.thumb.JPG.e3de9e507c0307a67fa8153fe6e30414.JPG

Edited by gvb
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I haven't been in that hull for a long time but if you are running a 15" prop (which is already going to favor the goofy side), I would be a little concerned about being able to get the boat balanced especially if you ever wakeboard.  

To step down the wiring you could always get a short piece of 0awg, and then put a copper lug on one end of the zero gauge and a lug on the end of the 2/0, bolt them together with a short screw and nut, and put a couple of pieces of heat shrink over the contraption for good measure.  I've done that a couple of times in the past to extend scraps for car stereo installs and it works great.  Only downside is you lose some flexibility/ability to radius the wire in the location of the splice, so you need to account for the splice being made at a "straight" part of the run.

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On 10/6/2020 at 11:25 PM, granddaddy55 said:

i think we twisted the zero gauge core and shaved a little and used the wetsounds blocks 0 in 4 out.  

That sounds like the way I'll most likely go... just shave down the 2/0 to fit into the 1/0 block.

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On 10/7/2020 at 5:29 AM, shawndoggy said:

I haven't been in that hull for a long time but if you are running a 15" prop (which is already going to favor the goofy side), I would be a little concerned about being able to get the boat balanced especially if you ever wakeboard.  

To step down the wiring you could always get a short piece of 0awg, and then put a copper lug on one end of the zero gauge and a lug on the end of the 2/0, bolt them together with a short screw and nut, and put a couple of pieces of heat shrink over the contraption for good measure.  I've done that a couple of times in the past to extend scraps for car stereo installs and it works great.  Only downside is you lose some flexibility/ability to radius the wire in the location of the splice, so you need to account for the splice being made at a "straight" part of the run.

I'll eventually have a bag on the port side under those seats, so I wanted to get as much weight on the driver side as possible.  Just slapped on an Acme 2419 yesterday!

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Step one done... pulled the cables that were running from the main circuit breaker over to the observer seat area back through and ran them to the rear driver corner following the existing wire bundle... I've got one new battery in (will move the battery cleats and tie down from the old spot), picking the other battery up today.  Add-A-Battery kit just landed today as well.

I've got a bit of excess... I was trying to get away with not having to buy a crimper and something to cut cable with, but I may end up just doing that so I can shorten these and then roll my own new starter and engine ground cables instead of having them made.IMG_5120.thumb.JPG.806857a9e0a2197f6344842ebb494b8b.JPG

Edited by gvb
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@gvb the satisfaction of a good crimp cannot be understated.  Harbor freight's hydraulic crimper is basically the same chinese hydraulic one that I have from amazon and it's great for a shadetree mechanic.  Pick up the heat gun while you were there so you can heat shrink the lugs after you crimp them too.

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@shawndoggy Have the heat gun but I’ve always had others build cables at this gauge for me... time to grab a crimper and do it myself!

Couple questions hoping you can lend some help:

- Positive connection from batteries to switch, no fuses there right?  The Blue Sea manual says 4/0 for those connections... that sound right, or should that be 2/0 there (since everything else after the switch is 2/0 or #2)?
- For the 2/0 run from the house side (post #1) of the switch to the observer seat compartment stereo distribution block, that should be fused immediately after the switch correct?  What do you recommend for the fuse?  In line barrels with the ANL fuses, or a circuit breaker?  The size of that will depend on what I have downstream for amps correct?
- The house load run already had an 80amp breaker that I will wire in immediately after the switch post #2.
- For the ACR connections to the switch, are those also 4/0 or 2/0?  What sizes fuses do I need between the ACR and switch?
- What product do you recommend for the ground bus?

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4awg between the switch and the acr is probably fine. I think I used 2 or 0, but it’s because that is what I had on hand for the 12” run. I didn’t fuse those runs but the manual says to so I’m not telling you what to do. But afaik, Malibu doesn’t fuse those on factory installs either. 
 

switch to battery I would use whatever you are using from the battery to the loads. 
 

fuses or breakers ... up to you. You are fusing the wire not the load, so look online at the load that your gauge of wire can carry for your intended length. If your amps aren’t fused, then you should use a fused distro block. 
 

blue seas makes nice buss bars. This kit (not blue sea, but on Amazon so it must be legit) looks pretty nice: 

 

4 Post Power Distribution Block Bus Bar Pair with Cover - Made in The USA - 250 Amp Rating - Marine, Automotive, and Solar Wiring (5/16") https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07THLYYH3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Ak-FFbGRPFA1P

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he runs his off the switch and i bet the inline 250 comes after switch

but i just switched whole system to dash acc switch straight from the amp board  power snd ground blocks snd my system is live with or without batt 1/both/2 switch on.  i have the 250 inline from batt 2 to amp board on the zero gauge, but im bypassing the switch. yes i could leave system powered on and drain batts.  also ran zero gauge for ground from batt 2 to board

i have ZERO noise in my system (towers, inboats and sub) with or without source on, volume up or down with or without the speaker rgb’s on or off, motor running or not 

No way any part of boat electronics or alternator even has s chance  of creating sny

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For the connections to the batteries, should I make or have cables made with proper terminal clamps, or is it ok to use lugs connected to one of these marine/military terminals?

For the common bus bar, I’ve got 6 things (2 batteries, boat house, engine, ACR, and stereo) ok to just go with the 4 post and put two things on two posts or is there a better way to accomplish that?

E08406CE-8A6E-4D83-B3C0-1CF56517D756.jpeg

Edited by gvb
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i just used auto style with the screw tight wire clamp on the opposite side from main terminal post. i wired the batt and switch existing wires as before to the marine stud terminals

 BUT i upgraded from my old 24 batts and boxes to new interstate marine 27’s and had to cut tab/slots in new boxes for 0 gauge and existing batt wires snd the attached connector/clamps described above to terminal.  27’s go in 27/31 boxes which are taller than 27’s so none of the cables would lie flat for good solid connections without the cut outs.  i wrapped my zero gauge even though it didn't need it in wire loom.  i have left a ton of extra feet slack of zero gauge power and ground and speaker wires  in the coffin so you can remove the amp board fully wired up snd place it in cabin to work on any future upgrades or fixes

Edited by granddaddy55
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@granddaddy55 for the main ground bus bar, I can only find 4 post stuff... is it ok to put multiple things on the same post or do I need to get two of these 4 post bars and connect them in order to cover everything?

Just reading a bit more on this... looks like I can just go directly to the battery for ground and run a jumper between them, yea?  Other than aesthetics any reason to use a common bus bar for this setup?

Edited by gvb
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On 10/11/2020 at 3:28 PM, gvb said:

@granddaddy55 for the main ground bus bar, I can only find 4 post stuff... is it ok to put multiple things on the same post or do I need to get two of these 4 post bars and connect them in order to cover everything?

Just reading a bit more on this... looks like I can just go directly to the battery for ground and run a jumper between them, yea?  Other than aesthetics any reason to use a common bus bar for this setup?

again, i didnt use a bus bar  (as far as ALL stereo equip only), all my grounds came from the ground distribution block (including the acc system power dash switch) on amp board in coffin with only the zero gauge from batt 2 to dist block.  

exact same for my power

im guessing since your setting the bar on a dedicated ground (assuming only stereo components wired to bus bar) you should be good

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This old driver kick panel fits perfectly here to use for an additional amp and distribution blocks... but what is the best way to keep it in place without drilling into the side of the hull?

BEF10C28-1887-4F25-9C33-FBECD65DDCFF.jpeg

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16 minutes ago, wdr said:

There should be some raised and glassed in fiberglass rails running parallel to the deck behind the carpet that the factory uses to secure the amp board. At least there is on my 2010 and 2019.

Probably not on a 2007.  So the "best" way would be to pull the carpet back and glass in some stand off blocks on the inside of the hull.

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so nice they put them in the newer boats.

 i did have to use a rubber grommet between board snd carpeted rail on top forward screw (the other three contact points/screws with the vinyl wrapped birch were flush ) 

the rails were not perfectly in line with each other forward in the coffin but still a nice touch as i only ordered sp1, that snd the pre wired tower was nice to take advantage of during my upgrade

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Ahhh!  You guys are correct... its hard to see in that pic I posted, but that kick panel is actually sitting on top of that rail.  I didn't notice the top rail because the carpet has peeled off and folded over it.  That should do it!  Thank you guys!

Now I just need to figure out how to mount my WetSounds EQ under the dash (using the WetSounds mounting bracket)... there isn't anything to screw into under there.

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