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Type of OIL


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I have a 2011 23LSV Wakesetter and am just wondering what everyone uses for oil?  Getting ready to winterize  and wondering if it is worth it to switch to synthetic? thoughts?

350 Monsoon Indmar

Edited by Toddh
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14 minutes ago, Toddh said:

I have a 2011 23LSV Wakesetter and am just wondering what everyone uses for oil?  Getting ready to winterize  and wondering if it is worth it to switch to synthetic? thoughts?

350 Monsoon Indmar

No it’s not worth changing. It will make no difference and you will still need to do the 50 hour oil changes regardless. We had over 790 hours when we sold ours and ran the same Valvoline 15/40 in it since day one. 
 

I have a couple brand new Napa 1069 oil filters and a couple gallons on Valvoline 15/40 if you wanna it.  You pay for shipping and 25 bucks and it’s yours.  We sold our 23 LSV with the monsoon 350 in it so don’t need the oil or filters anymore. 

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IMO there's no reason not to use synthetic other than cost. Boat engines operate at higher RPM's and need all the protection they can get. Most modern motors recommend synthetic oil after break in. Basically no downside to synthetic so why not?

Edited by Captcrunch
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On my 2010 Monsoon, I ended up using the Mobil1 Synthetic because I could find it anywhere. Yes a little more pricy, but a good piece of mind. The filter is where you don't want to save money. I ended up using the longer NAPA Gold 1069 IIRC. It was the longer version of the 1060 which fit on my remote oil filter mount with plenty of room to spare. Sold that boat with 1024 hours on it. I did the Blackstone Labs oil sampling at 800 hours and they said it "looked great" with nothing out of the norm considering the hours, so the oil must of been doing its job. Typically a 33 hour oil change though. With my maintenance schedule of 33 hours, I honestly don't think that the synthetic oil would of made much of a difference except to my wallet.  BICBW

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I think youre right about the service intervals. Shorter time lessens the advantages of synthetic for sure. But in newer boats, synthetic oils allow for a more modern weight like 0W40 or 5W30 to offer better protection at lower viscosity. This means better fuel consumption mostly but I assume there are other benefits.

If $$ is an issue and you want to change more often, go for the base oil. Peace of mind for me is important. On my 2002 I used Royal purple synthetic I think it was 15W40 and it was like $20 more for the whole change. Once per season and it actually worked out great for my average 50 hours a year. Now with a 2020, there's no choice really. Have to use synthetic.

Edited by Captcrunch
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9 minutes ago, wdr said:

On my 2010 Monsoon, I ended up using the Mobil1 Synthetic because I could find it anywhere. Yes a little more pricy, but a good piece of mind. The filter is where you don't want to save money. I ended up using the longer NAPA Gold 1069 IIRC. It was the longer version of the 1060 which fit on my remote oil filter mount with plenty of room to spare. Sold that boat with 1024 hours on it. I did the Blackstone Labs oil sampling at 800 hours and they said it "looked great" with nothing out of the norm considering the hours, so the oil must of been doing its job. Typically a 33 hour oil change though. With my maintenance schedule of 33 hours, I honestly don't think that the synthetic oil would of made much of a difference except to my wallet.  BICBW

Are you sure on the 1069 being the larger of the two? Pretty sure 1060 is the larger one.

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From Malibu - I think well said. Obviously touting their re-branded synthetic oil which is almost assuredly Mobil 1 repackaged. The claims hold up for all synthetics over non synthetic.

Engine oil lubricates and protects moving parts to keep things running properly. With the variety of grades and viscosities available, choosing the right oil may seem confusing. So, we engineered genuine Malibu Full Synthetic 5W-30 Engine Oil to meet our strict requirements. Malibu Engine Oil has better wear protection by reducing friction during high engine torque and hard acceleration providing over 80% better protection than the latest API (American Petroleum Institute) requirements. It has reduced thermal breakdown that keeps the engine cleaner by fighting deposits, sludge and oil burn off caused by high temperatures. In addition, Malibu Engine Oil has excellent corrosion control with added protection for marine environments.

 

Why is Full Synthetic Oil superior?

Full Synthetic engine oil is far superior to Conventional and Synthetic Blend oils offered by other brands. Full Synthetic base oil molecules are more uniform in shape and contain fewer impurities. These characteristics give the finished oil better engine protection properties than conventional oils. Full Synthetic oils have better extreme high temperature performance and are formulated with superior quality additives to provide better engine protection, cleaner engines, reduce sludge, corrosion and oil burn off. In comparison, conventional engine oils are less durable over time and lack the latest technology in engine oil formulation.

In comparison, Conventional engine oils are less durable and lack the latest technology in the engine oil formulation. Conventional engine oil is recommended for simple engine designs and less severe operating conditions than generally found in boating.

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1 hour ago, Captcrunch said:

From Malibu - I think well said. Obviously touting their re-branded synthetic oil which is almost assuredly Mobil 1 repackaged. The claims hold up for all synthetics over non synthetic.

Engine oil lubricates and protects moving parts to keep things running properly. With the variety of grades and viscosities available, choosing the right oil may seem confusing. So, we engineered genuine Malibu Full Synthetic 5W-30 Engine Oil to meet our strict requirements. Malibu Engine Oil has better wear protection by reducing friction during high engine torque and hard acceleration providing over 80% better protection than the latest API (American Petroleum Institute) requirements. It has reduced thermal breakdown that keeps the engine cleaner by fighting deposits, sludge and oil burn off caused by high temperatures. In addition, Malibu Engine Oil has excellent corrosion control with added protection for marine environments.

 

Why is Full Synthetic Oil superior?

Full Synthetic engine oil is far superior to Conventional and Synthetic Blend oils offered by other brands. Full Synthetic base oil molecules are more uniform in shape and contain fewer impurities. These characteristics give the finished oil better engine protection properties than conventional oils. Full Synthetic oils have better extreme high temperature performance and are formulated with superior quality additives to provide better engine protection, cleaner engines, reduce sludge, corrosion and oil burn off. In comparison, conventional engine oils are less durable over time and lack the latest technology in engine oil formulation.

In comparison, Conventional engine oils are less durable and lack the latest technology in the engine oil formulation. Conventional engine oil is recommended for simple engine designs and less severe operating conditions than generally found in boating.

This is for the new engines. And any Dexos2 oil will be fine. The OP is asking about his 2011 and honestly I would just keep using a 15w-40 changed at 50 hours if I were him.

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Speaking of oil, the winter beater Corolla I just bought needs 0-w20.  IOW, synthetic.  For a 1.8 liter sewing machine engine?  So much for cheap oil changes.  And interestingly, the dealer charges about the same as doing it yourself, plus they wash the car and top the fluids.  Oh well...

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10 minutes ago, Eagleboy99 said:

Speaking of oil, the winter beater Corolla I just bought needs 0-w20.  IOW, synthetic.  For a 1.8 liter sewing machine engine?  So much for cheap oil changes.  And interestingly, the dealer charges about the same as doing it yourself, plus they wash the car and top the fluids.  Oh well...

Costco... M1 0-20 goes on sale for ~$25 for 6quarts fairly often.

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8 minutes ago, hunter77ah said:

Costco... M1 0-20 goes on sale for ~$25 for 6quarts fairly often.

Never thought of that!  Thanks - but that is still 40 bucks (CAD) plus my time: the dealer charges 60.  Not sure it is worth $20 to do it myself and top fluids and wash.  But I probably should (at least during the summer).  Mind you I'm not even sure I can run up 8K kms in a year which is the OCI.

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Synthetic makes significant sense in a wake boat

  • High Load (High RPM, lots of weight)
  • Continuously Running
  • Cold Starts (when you're away from the lake for a week)

A diesel qualifying oil also has superior acid handling

If I'm feeling cheap, i use this $15/gallon Valvoline Synthetic Blend for Diesels but this year, i found a similar price for Rotella full synthetic diesel formula

Edited by smileysteve
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Regular Rotella T 15-40 , I have used this in every truck , boat , tractor and small engine for years and years. Its nice to also just keep one oil on the shelf that works in majority of my engines. 

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