Jump to content

Welcome to TheMalibuCrew!

As a guest, you are welcome to poke around and view the majority of the content that we have to offer, but in order to post, search, contact members, and get full use out of the website you will need to Register for an Account. It's free and it's easy, so don't hesitate to join the TheMalibuCrew Family today!

2016 23LSV Screens and Motor died while in the water.


450Ryder

Recommended Posts

I did a search and couldn't find anything relating to this. 

I was headed back to dock yesterday evening after a full day of surfing with a boat full and all of a sudden both screens powered down and so did the engine.  I tried turning batteries to off position then back on to no avail. I tested batteries and they're both reading over 12v, i've check breakers and all of them are not tripped.  Is there anything else I'm missing to check? It's still under factory warranty, but I'm hoping it's something i'm missing and can fix quickly, so that I don't have to bring it into the dealership, which will be the end to my surf season.  

Link to post
1 minute ago, vaporbluebu said:

Have you checked the kill switch? Maybe the lanyard got pulled somehow.

Thanks for the response.  Yes, I forgot to mention that.  Kill switch is in the run position with the lanyard in. 

Link to post

I take it you were able to use the key to manually crank the engine?  Now that the boat's cooled it's heels a bit does it power up again or is it still down?

Loose power connections are a possibility.  Loose connections on the on/off button also.  Enough vibration on a loose connection could lead to that scenario eventually.

Was it a hot day?  I've had those screens freeze (most common) and flat shut-off (once) on crazy hot Texas days. 

Link to post
7 hours ago, Slurpee said:

I take it you were able to use the key to manually crank the engine?  Now that the boat's cooled it's heels a bit does it power up again or is it still down?

Loose power connections are a possibility.  Loose connections on the on/off button also.  Enough vibration on a loose connection could lead to that scenario eventually.

Was it a hot day?  I've had those screens freeze (most common) and flat shut-off (once) on crazy hot Texas days. 

Thanks for the response, Slurpee. 

No, still does not power up. 

Checked the power and ground connections on both batteries and they are on there tight. Checked the connections on the on/off button and they are tight as well. 

Not a hot day at all. highs in the low 90's.  

Link to post

Bummer. Do you have a digital multimeter? Start checking voltages at connections. All of the computer connections in the ‘16 are part of the right hand side touch screen.

You WERE able to crank the engine with the key in the slot next to the fuses right?

Do you have the Perko switch? What’s the dial at? 1, 2, or both?

Link to post
57 minutes ago, Slurpee said:

Bummer. Do you have a digital multimeter? Start checking voltages at connections. All of the computer connections in the ‘16 are part of the right hand side touch screen.

You WERE able to crank the engine with the key in the slot next to the fuses right?

Do you have the Perko switch? What’s the dial at? 1, 2, or both?

I don't have a multimeter, but I need one.  Guess i'll have to purchase one tomorrow.  

No, I was not able to crank with the key at all. 

I do have a Perko. I've tried 1, 2 and 1&2 combo to no avail. 

Link to post

Could be main power switch failure. (The button on the dash).  That is were I would start testing if the light on the button is not coming on.  Second thing I would check is that the ground wire that goes to the bus bar under the dash has not come loose.

Edited by oldjeep
Link to post
12 hours ago, oldjeep said:

Could be main power switch failure. (The button on the dash).  That is were I would start testing if the light on the button is not coming on.  Second thing I would check is that the ground wire that goes to the bus bar under the dash has not come loose.

Thanks, Oldjeep.  Checked the ground on the bus bar and that’s intact and snug.   Didn’t have a chance to grab a millimeter, so was wasn’t able to poke at the main power switch. I took it to the dealership today as it’s still under warranty.   I’ll be sure to update this thread as soon as I get it back repaired. 

Link to post
1 hour ago, Ballay said:

Did you bypass the battery switch? 

No, I didn’t.  I don’t have anymore more time to mess with it, so It’s at the dealership now under warranty.   I’ll definitely post the findings when they get it all squared away. 

Link to post
1 hour ago, Slurpee said:

A complete failure really feels like a single point of failure. Disassemble the perko switch and just bolt all the red cables together and see what you get. 

Makes sense.  I didn’t have anymore time to mess with it, so to the dealer it went for warranty work.  I’ll post findings. 

Link to post

Got the boat back from the dealer today. Turns out there’s a circuit breaker in the port side compartment.  It’s located in the very front of the compartment mounted low and very hard to see from plain sight.   Both nuts backed out over time and eventually, the cables disconnected thus not distributing power to anything. 

hopefully this doesn’t happen to anyone else, however if it does, here’s the answer. 

Thanks to everyone who took the time to respond and gave great suggestions. 

Link to post

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...