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Triple axel trailer help


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Is there a way for us to get home? Triple axel trailer appears the rear break locked and smoked the bearing and the whole nine yards. Is there a way for us to ratchet strap the triple axel?

Edited by BlindSquirrel
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Man, that sucks!  (Dumb question alert!)  Can you not just ride on two wheels on that side?  Shouldn't what is left of the hub  just ride above the pavement?

Edited by Eagleboy99
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19 minutes ago, justgary said:

You probably need to put the rotor back on so the brakes work.  Otherwise, they will just pop the piston out and dump all of the fluid.

And brake fluid eats paint!

If it’s electronic brakes (which it should be) turn them off in the truck, if it’s surge put the key in and zip tie it in place so it doesn’t fall out. 

Put your ratchet strap around the axel and around the frame of the trailer just behind the wheel assembly that went bad (just on the inside of the leaf spring in the picture). Pump your jack up, set the ratchet so it’s tight (make sure it is triple knotted secured) and lower the jack very slowly as to not shock load your strap. The strap is simulating the weight the rubber would take. 

say a few prayers and don’t take your eyes off the mirror. You should be fine just drive very slow as to not heat up the tires too much. 

good luck!


Edited by InIt4theDough
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If it were me, I would pull the wheel off the other side too and strap the axle from the center to the frame to keep the equalizers from flipping.  And then take it slow.  That tiny ratchet strap in the picture doesn't look up to the task of supporting a live axle without snapping 

This only works if your tow rig can take the additional tongue weight.

If you had torsion axles you could tow as is without straps or removing other tire.

Edited by oldjeep
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Okay, so here is the rub. I was following my brother home, about 15 miles into the trip I noticed a little smoke coming from the passenger side of the trailer. Within 5 seconds that escalated into flames. He immediately pulled over, I jumped out and poured what was left of my water on to put out the fire. Crazy. 

We didn’t need to take the lug nuts off the wheel in question...Just pulled it off. The hub was toast, as was the rotor. The entire bearing assembly was gone, and the hub nut was welded to the threads. You can see the rotor, what’s left of it, on the ground in that photo. 

Now...first we used two ratchet straps to hold up the passenger side axel. One 5,000 lb and a 10,000 lb rated strap. Both held the axel up from the trailer beam. Now for the sorcery, the axel was some how still somehow lowering even with the straps holding tight.... Long story short, took the other side tire off and strapped both sides up. Was able to get the jack out and move on. Did nothing with the brakes, but nothing happened with the pistons or fluid. 

 Now, with the rear axel out of the picture the trailer was rear heavy, I’d say 50-100lbs of negative tongue weight. We limped it back to the lake house 15 miles, thank goodness. All straps held and no further damage aside from dragging the prop cage a couple times since it was only a few inches off the ground. Our lake roads are... well, lake roads.

Best guess is the break pad got stuck, but not enough to lock of the wheel... then over heated and boom. Assuming a whole new axel is in order since the threads are toast, unless that part is replaceable. Looks like its pressed in or something.... didn’t really take time to check it out. 

Edited by BlindSquirrel
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After thinking more about it. I bet the reason we had a hard time getting the jack out is because the weight was shifting on the trailer to the rear. The axel was not moving per se, the whole trailer was tilting. Either way... if this happens to someone else... yes, you can rig it so you can limp a short distance. 


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