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New Garage build


BlindSquirrel

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56 minutes ago, BlindSquirrel said:

$1200 for a fan? I was thinking maybe three normal sized fans for ~200 each, unless that fancy fan does more than I’m thinking it does.

😁😁I feel ya.  Then don’t be looking at BAF. You can at least triple that $1200 and probably quadruple it  

With installation of the 3 fans it would probably end up close to the same cost.  And I realize you are installing yourself, so you will save. Another advantage to 3 small fans is you can place them between lights to reduce flicker. 
 

the guys I know that have the 12’ fans absolutely love them. I have installed a Couple in man caves. 

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1 hour ago, Sparky450 said:

😁😁I feel ya.  Then don’t be looking at BAF. You can at least triple that $1200 and probably quadruple it  

With installation of the 3 fans it would probably end up close to the same cost.  And I realize you are installing yourself, so you will save. Another advantage to 3 small fans is you can place them between lights to reduce flicker. 
 

the guys I know that have the 12’ fans absolutely love them. I have installed a Couple in man caves. 

I didn’t think about the flicker... that would drive me bananas. 

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9 hours ago, BlindSquirrel said:

53-55 degree air

I have had a geothermal heat pump for 34 years.  My 3.5 ton unit uses ~70° ground water and heats it about 9° as it works.  You will need enough pipe underground to cool about 8 gallons per minute by that 9°.  It will depend on your ground temperature mostly. 

Also, my unit provides about 15° of cooling, so your estimate of 55° air may be unrealistic.  Mine is putting out 62 right now for a house temp of 77.

That said, the unit is easy to install and comes precharged with refrigerant.  Mine performs at around 23 SEER, but it certainly isn't free cooling. 

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6 minutes ago, justgary said:

I have had a geothermal heat pump for 34 years. 

I am Soooooo  Sorry that I did not add a lake loop with a monoflow T when I was installing the new in-lake submersible pump  about 10 years ago.  The water is 45-50F 24/7/365.  Could have have cooling in summer and zero-cost winter heat.

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49 minutes ago, justgary said:

I have had a geothermal heat pump for 34 years.  My 3.5 ton unit uses ~70° ground water and heats it about 9° as it works.  You will need enough pipe underground to cool about 8 gallons per minute by that 9°.  It will depend on your ground temperature mostly. 

Also, my unit provides about 15° of cooling, so your estimate of 55° air may be unrealistic.  Mine is putting out 62 right now for a house temp of 77.

That said, the unit is easy to install and comes precharged with refrigerant.  Mine performs at around 23 SEER, but it certainly isn't free cooling. 

Interesting. Not planning on putting a heat pump, really just going to bury enough pipe with a circulation pump to recover from the exchange. A guy in my area has a similar set up, the fluid is 55ish year round I’m told. I’ve not seen it but do have my doubts of how effective it is. If it was as easy as burying a long line with a pump, I would think everyone would do it. But I’ll give it a go, and put in a compressor if it needs one.

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50 minutes ago, BlindSquirrel said:

Interesting. Not planning on putting a heat pump, really just going to bury enough pipe with a circulation pump to recover from the exchange. A guy in my area has a similar set up, the fluid is 55ish year round I’m told. I’ve not seen it but do have my doubts of how effective it is. If it was as easy as burying a long line with a pump, I would think everyone would do it. But I’ll give it a go, and put in a compressor if it needs one.

I see.  That will cool a bit, but probably won't have enough BTUs to remove much humidity.  Better than just a fan, even if it is a bigassfan. 

You mentioned an exchanger in a regular ac unit, which is exactly what I have.  No outside unit.  Just the heat pump with a heat exchanger.  Water from the well is about 70°, so it is always trying to move heat in the right direction.

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1 hour ago, Eagleboy99 said:

I am Soooooo  Sorry that I did not add a lake loop with a monoflow T when I was installing the new in-lake submersible pump  about 10 years ago.  The water is 45-50F 24/7/365.  Could have have cooling in summer and zero-cost winter heat.

It can't be too late.  Rip that sucker out and fix it! 

I forgot the part about the desuperheater between the compressor and the heat exchanger.  It is a first stage exchanger that cycles heat with the water heater.  I'm pretty sure my water heater doesn't come on at all during the summer, because the water is hotter than in winter. 

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20 minutes ago, justgary said:

It can't be too late.  Rip that sucker out and fix it! 

I forgot the part about the desuperheater between the compressor and the heat exchanger.  It is a first stage exchanger that cycles heat with the water heater.  I'm pretty sure my water heater doesn't come on at all during the summer, because the water is hotter than in winter. 

Sadly it is too late.  I would need a larger lake conduit.  Getting shore access up here is unreal; I had to directional drill the last time.  A zillion permits from Fisheries and Oceans, Parks, Lands and Lakes etc.  Next life.  :)

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35 minutes ago, Eagleboy99 said:

Sadly it is too late.  I would need a larger lake conduit.  Getting shore access up here is unreal; I had to directional drill the last time.  A zillion permits from Fisheries and Oceans, Parks, Lands and Lakes etc.  Next life.  :)

4efuij.jpg

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42 minutes ago, justgary said:

I didn't realize your loop of hose was going into Lake Louise... that's very different.

Oh it doesnt!  There are no homes on Lake Louise.  National Parks make that a big no no!  We can't touch anything along the shoreline and especially put anything in the water that isn't removable.  That example just shows how crusty our government is at protecting the forests and waterways in Canada.  When we redid the boat launch it was quite a regulatory nightmare.  It took months to et the proper approval to add some pit run and gravel as a base to put the new pads on .  

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5 minutes ago, Eagleboy99 said:

I hear you!  In the old days people would dump truck loads of sand on the ice.  Voila!  Sandy bottom in the spring!
 

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4 hours ago, Malibuzer said:

Oh it doesnt!  There are no homes on Lake Louise.  National Parks make that a big no no!  We can't touch anything along the shoreline and especially put anything in the water that isn't removable.  That example just shows how crusty our government is at protecting the forests and waterways in Canada.  When we redid the boat launch it was quite a regulatory nightmare.  It took months to et the proper approval to add some pit run and gravel as a base to put the new pads on .  

That was actually a joke.  I have been to Lake Louise.  It was quite beautiful. 

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3 hours ago, Malibuzer said:

I hear you!  In the old days people would dump truck loads of sand on the ice.  Voila!  Sandy bottom in the spring!
 

That's a really good idea... so you could also do that with a spool of pipe for a cooling system. 

Everything will go great until some dude drags it up with his anchor. 

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  • 2 months later...

I've made a good amount of progress since my last post. The first photo is what I started with and the footing trenches I dug. Second is where we are today. The trusses and all the lumber are now on site and me and my brother are going to start framing it this weekend. The county is making me leave the wall you see standing do to property line offset grandfathering.....pretty silly they want everything done right.. but building on a 40 year old wall and footing that is not deep enough is not even close to right. However in an unbelievable turn of events, it has been really windy the past week...nearly all that wall was blown down. The only part left standing is about a 4x8 piece of siding with all my electrical on it! What incredible luck... it even broke in a straight line! :whistle: Getting really excited about getting this thing framed in!

footings

 

 

new floor

 

wall

 

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For you concrete experts... I watched the guys seal the floor after they poured it, then they cut it. Should I be concerned that the concrete in the cuts are not sealed? When our vehicles bring in salt, I don't want it to sit in the cuts and eat. Should I buy some sealer or something to put in them?

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On 9/9/2020 at 10:10 AM, BlindSquirrel said:

I still have the fun part of taking the current garage down without destroying the whole building due to county restrictions of setback requirements and grandfathering.... so dumb. I have to leave up the west wall and add on to it instead of starting over and doing it right....I’ll update with photos my progress. The machine I’m going to use gets here the 20th, so that’s my hopeful start date. 🤞🏻

That picture of the piece of old wall hooked to the enormous new foundation is hillarious

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34 minutes ago, BlindSquirrel said:

For you concrete experts... I watched the guys seal the floor after they poured it, then they cut it. Should I be concerned that the concrete in the cuts are not sealed? When our vehicles bring in salt, I don't want it to sit in the cuts and eat. Should I buy some sealer or something to put in them?

The control joints really should be sealed if you're worried about them getting filled with crap.  IIWM, I would look at a Sika Product.  There is a product called Sikaflex 2NS that would work well in that application.  It's a urethane sealant.  Not sure what compound they used to seal the concrete.  You may want to ask to confirm material compatibility.  That product is a 2 component product that requires mixing and you would have to rent a caulk gun as the traditionally available guns in which you use a tube of caulk won't work with this product.  

 

Another similar product by Sika is Sikaflex -1a+.  It is a single component product that does not require mixing.  This also is available in a traditional tube that you can use your standard household caulk gun for installation.  It's similar to the previously mentioned product and will perform well.  It's also a urethane, non-sagging, elastomeric product.  You'll need temps of 40 and rising for installation.  cure time is 4-7 days, but it's tack-free time is something like 6 hours, IIRC.  This is what I would use if I were in your situation.  

 

 

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Made some good progress this past weekend. Got the walls up Saturday and the trusses up Sunday. Holy attic space batman.... I knew it would be a good amount, but this is huge. I'm 6 foot and the ceiling up there is 6'2". Hoping to get it roofed this weekend, weather pending. Calling for a little rain Saturday. 

 

day1

 

day2 day2 attic

 

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4 hours ago, Eagleboy99 said:

What are you going to use for attic access?

Not sure yet. Considering a half staircase on the far wall with pull down steps. The ceiling is 12 feet so it’s a decent ways up there.

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28 minutes ago, BlindSquirrel said:

Not sure yet. Considering a half staircase on the far wall with pull down steps. The ceiling is 12 feet so it’s a decent ways up there.

Cut an exterior door in the rear, up top, for the storage area and put the stairs outside the back wall. Wish I had thought of that when I built mine. If your going to use the storage often, that pull down door stinks.

Edited by dalt1
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