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Hose Connection on Stern


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I have a 2007 Wakesetter VTX, on the stern on the port side of the Malibu logo (it's up fairly high) is a female 3/4" GHT connection with a cap.  Is that in place so I don't have to use a fake-a-lake?  I can send pics once I am with the boat again.  Or any other way I can tell what that is used for?

And I assume it's used like I use a hose on my Sea-Doos.  Start engine, turn on water, turn off water, turn off engine. 

Thanks in advance.

Edited by haggis444
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3 minutes ago, haggis444 said:

I have a 2007 Wakesetter VTX, on the stern on the port side of the Malibu logo (it's up fairly high) is a female 3/4" GHT connection with a cap.  Is that in place so I don't have to use a fake-a-lake?  I can send pics once I am with the boat again.  Or any other way I can tell what that is used for?

And I assume it's used like I use a hose on my Sea-Doos.  Start engine, turn on water, turn off water, turn off engine. 

Thanks in advance.

That's what it sounds like and that is where mine is located.

  • Like 1
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2 hours ago, haggis444 said:

I have a 2007 Wakesetter VTX, on the stern on the port side of the Malibu logo (it's up fairly high) is a female 3/4" GHT connection with a cap.  Is that in place so I don't have to use a fake-a-lake?  I can send pics once I am with the boat again.  Or any other way I can tell what that is used for?

And I assume it's used like I use a hose on my Sea-Doos.  Start engine, turn on water, turn off water, turn off engine. 

Thanks in advance.

Turn on water

then start engine

then turn off engine

then stop water

  • Like 3
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1 hour ago, Bozboat said:

Turn on water

then start engine

then turn off engine

then stop water

Double check that there is not a shut off valve for that flush kit.  I know that the current ones do not have a shut off valve but I believe there was one on some of the kits in the past.  Basically if you hook it up, turn on the hose and water isn't flowing out the exhaust then double check that the system doesn't have a valve.

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On 8/26/2020 at 2:38 PM, granddaddy55 said:

new ones have a clear plastic diversion valve and you need to start quickly after pressurization or i think you can damage it

Yeah that's the issue with my SeaDoos.  Better to run for a few seconds without cooling than the other way around as the water has no where to go.  Thanks for that info. 

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sadly as i used to think, no.  @ahopkinsVTX has correctly informed me, it ends up not going into motor as much as end up on ground.

reason is im thinking stat opens short intervals that cool motor quickly not bringing in much and if it were cold outside it may not open much at all at idle in driveway and only cool or protect cats

figured this out testing in driveway after stat replacement on mine watching stat open which it only did infrequently in the driveway, had to run high idle to make it happen more but it still took time to heat up and then it drops realky  quick  

you eould meed someone at helm watching gauge and turning antifreeze and the other water on and off from water to antifreeze and even then its a risk

others in same post did it though 

Edited by granddaddy55
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2 minutes ago, granddaddy55 said:

sadly as i used to think, no.  @ahopkinsVTX has correctly informed me, it ends up not going into motor as much as end up on ground.

reason is im thinking stat opens short intervals that cool motor quickly not bringing in much and if it were cold outside it may not open much at all at idle in driveway and only cool or protect cats

figured this out testing in driveway after stat replacement on mine watching stat open which it only did infrequently in the driveway, had to run high idle to make it happen more but it still took time to heat up and then it drops realky  quick  

Drain your hoses + block, reconnect all hoses but large "J" hose, pour 2 gallons of AF through "J" hose and it will fill the block directly, then you can run as much antifreeze through your stern connection as you want to cover the rest of your systems. Doesn't matter if the T-stat opens or not in that scenario because everything is covered either way.

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1 minute ago, MattyICE15 said:

Drain your hoses + block, reconnect all hoses but large "J" hose, pour 2 gallons of AF through "J" hose and it will fill the block directly, then you can run as much antifreeze through your stern connection as you want to cover the rest of your systems. Doesn't matter if the T-stat opens or not in that scenario because everything is covered either way.

i get it, he wanted to use flush only

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7 minutes ago, MattyICE15 said:

Drain your hoses + block, reconnect all hoses but large "J" hose, pour 2 gallons of AF through "J" hose and it will fill the block directly, then you can run as much antifreeze through your stern connection as you want to cover the rest of your systems. Doesn't matter if the T-stat opens or not in that scenario because everything is covered either way.

can you leave tranny/vdrive end of tge big hoses alone with this technique?

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5 minutes ago, granddaddy55 said:

can you leave tranny/vdrive end of tge big hoses alone with this technique?

My gut would say yes you could leave them as long as you run enough AF through to sweep it clean - but I pull them and let them gravity drain anyways. Takes another 2 mins and reduces the possibility of dilution of the AF since you'd have some water sitting in the existing systems.

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5 hours ago, MattyICE15 said:

My gut would say yes you could leave them as long as you run enough AF through to sweep it clean - but I pull them and let them gravity drain anyways. Takes another 2 mins and reduces the possibility of dilution of the AF since you'd have some water sitting in the existing systems.

i tried removing the one on tranny running from johnson pump once and i couldn't budge it, guessing it needs to be released from johnson pump end first to relieve tension?

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On 8/28/2020 at 5:47 PM, granddaddy55 said:

i tried removing the one on tranny running from johnson pump once and i couldn't budge it, guessing it needs to be released from johnson pump end first to relieve tension?

Shouldn't have any tension built up there -  with the boat being off that's a low pressure spot. The hose may not have been pulled from that area in a while. May feel bonded to the connection where it was crimped. Make sure your crimps are very lose and you may need to pry lightly with a flat head to help loosen the hose up. Be careful not to puncture your hose.

Once you get it off it will be easier to remove in the future.

Edited by MattyICE15
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2 hours ago, MattyICE15 said:

Shouldn't have any tension built up there -  with the boat being off that's a low pressure spot. The hose may not have been pulled from that area in a while. May feel bonded to the connection where it was crimped. Make sure your crimps are very lose and you may need to pry lightly with a flat head to help loosen the hose up. Be careful not to puncture your hose.

Once you get it off it will be easier to remove in the future.

what i meant was without loosening the end of hose at johnson pump, that stiff thick hose may need to be removed from johnson side snd there would be less “tension” on the length of hose, thinking it would have been easier if i had removed it from johnson end first which would be done to winterize 

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