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Plumbing ballast


Chase0808

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So I know there are a bunch of threads out there explaining the process but I had a few additional questions before I begin plumbing my ballast. 


I have a 2004 Sunscape 21LSV for reference.
 

To start, I plan on plumbing to my existing 750lb fat sacs in the rear lockers only for now. Over the winter I would like to also do the bow. I think that would be as far as I’d go for plumbed ballast. Is it that much of a big deal to do the rear now and the bow in a few months or should I wait to do it all at once? 


I’m still on the fence about Aerator vs Reversible. I know it’s basically preference but I’m leaning towards Aerator because I want low cost and low maintenance. I don’t necessarily mind the extra up front work. 
 

If anyone that has completed this process has a complete list of what’s needed, it would be greatly appreciated. 
 

Now, assuming I’m going to go with the Aerator route, I have compiled the following so far(for two 750 rear locker bags):


(2) 750lb Fly High Fat sacs

(2) Bronze thru hull intake [1” or 1 1/4”?] (1 for each bag)

(2) Bronze shut off valve (same size as intakes)

(2) Check valve fitting

(4) Tsunami 1200 pumps (2 for each bag - fill, drain)

(6) Flow right bag fitting (3 for each bag - fill, drain, and vent)

(6) Flow right barbed quick release (1 for each sac port - 3 per bag)

(4) Stainless thru hull drain fitting [1” or 1 1/14”?] (2 drain, 2 vent)

(?ft) Wakemakers black hose

3M 4000 sealant

(A lot) Stainless hose clamps

(2) Wakemakers plug and play pump harness with rocker switch

 

I know it depends on the boat, but for my 21lsv, how much hose “should” be enough? Is 40ft overkill? I will measure to be sure before ordering, but just to get an idea. At about $1.50/ft I don’t mind overbuying on hose.

 

What hose size is reasonable but necessary? I’m thinking I’ll go with at least 1”. That being said, I guess I’ll order all fittings in the same size (unless that’s advised against). 

 

I’m still deciding if the Wakemakers wiring harness is worth the price. For 2 applications, it would add an additional $220. On the flip side, it would make the wiring a clean and easy install. I feel like it may be worth it although I haven’t really mapped out the price/work to make my own harness for the 4 pumps. 

 

This has me totaled out at $788 with all listed items above from Wakemakers website, with 1” fittings for all. I’m sure I could cut costs by getting some parts from hardware stores but for now I have it all added up in the same place. 

 

Again, I appreciate all/any input provided. I’m sure I’m missing or forgetting some components but I’m trying to get a complete list together so I can have everything needed ready to go and knock it out in a day or two so I can use it this season(what’s left of it). 
 

If anyone has a good write up or thread of their installation, please post the link here!

 

Thanks in advance!!

 

Edited by Chase0808
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You can source each part or buy the kit with everything you need for one pump and the wire harness, but I highly recommend the kit if you want to make the job as simple as possible.

Just a heads up, Wakemakers is pretty much out of everything right now for ballast system installation, it has been a busy year for them with all the boat sales this summer.  I inquired about some reversible kits, piggyback kits, etc on the chat tool and they told me from the time I order to the time it ships will be at least 5 weeks.  I think I will just wait for their Black Friday sale.

 

Here's my install thread on my old 2010:

 

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Yeah I noticed they had a pump kit but I figured it would still end up being cheaper if I build it out. Plus I could pick and choose certain components I wanted. Like the faster pump. 
 

You’re probably right though, it’ll save me from forgetting something small and keep the install easy. 

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I have 1100s in my trunks now but had 750s before - using the same plumbed in hose. Have 6ft of 1"ID hose going from pump in bilge floor to top of fat sac with a check valve from Home Depot at the 90 deg elbow into the sac to stop siphon effect. Had 5 ft of 3/4" ID hose vent from top of sac to thru hull - but havent been using vent lately and just capped it with the Fat Sac vent plug. Using the Wakemakers black 3/4" ID for drain because its more flexible and easier to wrap around  behind gas intake and make a loop to retard unwanted drainage - probably 5 ft. So for us its 20ft of 3/4 and 12ft of 1". Not much difference in drain times using the 3/4 or 1 but when we had 1" had to use in line ball valve to stop unwanted drainage.

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6 hours ago, Brad B said:

I have 1100s in my trunks now but had 750s before - using the same plumbed in hose. Have 6ft of 1"ID hose going from pump in bilge floor to top of fat sac with a check valve from Home Depot at the 90 deg elbow into the sac to stop siphon effect. Had 5 ft of 3/4" ID hose vent from top of sac to thru hull - but havent been using vent lately and just capped it with the Fat Sac vent plug. Using the Wakemakers black 3/4" ID for drain because its more flexible and easier to wrap around  behind gas intake and make a loop to retard unwanted drainage - probably 5 ft. So for us its 20ft of 3/4 and 12ft of 1". Not much difference in drain times using the 3/4 or 1 but when we had 1" had to use in line ball valve to stop unwanted drainage.

Did you go with Aerator or Reversible pumps?

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Aerator. It was plumbed with them new (MLS) so I just kept it that way- just swapped them all out for Tsunami 1200s. One to fill and one to drain on each sac. Makes it cheap and ez to replace if one goes out but those Tsunami 1200s have been pretty much bullet proof.

Edited by Brad B
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