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What size circuit breakers for echelon/Accessories not working


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Working on my echelon, this boat sat for a few years so Im getting it up and going. Wired up a new radio harness and some speakers (properly) and hooked it up to the battery for the same time. To my surprise, the computron still works! and it has 220 original hours which is amazing.

 

Brand new battery, Switches that control computron are working, horn works, dimmers work. Bilge, blower, and stereo do not work. I checked breakers, and dont see any loose wires or anything like that. Any one have advice?

 

Theres a chance that the blower and bilge need replacing but radio should be working so I suspect theres a problem at the switches

Edited by txmxer
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Update for anyone who tunes in or for someone in the future: I went through all the cables made sure theyre on properly, no visible issues in wires. I took out the pink cable from the ignition switch and sanded it down lightly to have a clean contact surface as well as the other end of that wire on the tab above the 7 switches that have relays. I kept playing around and switching the ignition on and off and eventually the interior lights, dash lights, and other accessories switched on. 

All switches except for the bilge and radio are now working, I suspect a relay issue because I think Im hearing some clicking coming from them.

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Im replacing the circuit breakers can anyone confirm that the bilge circuit breaker is 5 AMP and 10 AMP on the radio switch? I cant find this info anywhere, including manuals I have looked at.

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1 hour ago, tvano said:

with a sample size of one the spec sheet said 1.5A at zero head.

i think i'd be ok w it on the 5A breaker.  

Thanks, Ive been searching high and low and see multiple things and diagrams that arent consistant with whats on the boat, Ill try to call the dealership tomorrow but I ordered a 5A and 10A from bakes.

 

Just an fyi for anyone searching in the future, west marine does sell the circuit breakers but theyre a little different and arent threaded the way ours our to screw into the bussman bar.

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12 hours ago, txmxer said:

Thanks, Ive been searching high and low and see multiple things and diagrams that arent consistant with whats on the boat, Ill try to call the dealership tomorrow but I ordered a 5A and 10A from bakes.

 

Just an fyi for anyone searching in the future, west marine does sell the circuit breakers but theyre a little different and arent threaded the way ours our to screw into the bussman bar.

an afterthought. i'm going to start questioning myself here here and i do extend an apology for potentially misleading.

i think my original post is rational for what i'd consider normal use but consider your usage of that bilge pump. 

does the boat normally live, unattended, in the water and will that bilge pump see the opportunity to save the rig from drowning ? 

since you have already purchased a 5A breaker; consider metering the electrical current (with a fully charged battery as power source) of your pump when it is stalled.  that is the largest current you will need to support the pump.

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On 8/11/2020 at 5:32 AM, tvano said:

an afterthought. i'm going to start questioning myself here here and i do extend an apology for potentially misleading.

i think my original post is rational for what i'd consider normal use but consider your usage of that bilge pump. 

does the boat normally live, unattended, in the water and will that bilge pump see the opportunity to save the rig from drowning ? 

since you have already purchased a 5A breaker; consider metering the electrical current (with a fully charged battery as power source) of your pump when it is stalled.  that is the largest current you will need to support the pump.

Thank you! This is a new to me boat so Im not sure, in the past (knock on wood) we dont use the bilge much on any of my old boats and the last malibu we had we never needed to use the bilge either. That said, I trailer the boat so it wont be sitting in the water but I do want a functional bilge pump haha

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On 8/11/2020 at 7:32 AM, tvano said:

an afterthought. i'm going to start questioning myself here here and i do extend an apology for potentially misleading.

i think my original post is rational for what i'd consider normal use but consider your usage of that bilge pump. 

does the boat normally live, unattended, in the water and will that bilge pump see the opportunity to save the rig from drowning ? 

since you have already purchased a 5A breaker; consider metering the electrical current (with a fully charged battery as power source) of your pump when it is stalled.  that is the largest current you will need to support the pump.

...provided that the wiring won't overheat with a stalled pump motor.  I think I'd rather have the breaker trip if the pump stalls; at least that saves the battery.

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Just as an update for anyone searching in the future, replaced the 2 resistors. This allowed me to gain stereo function back so that works now, the second resistor was to the bilge. It did not restore bilge function, I went ahead and redid the butt connectors to the bilge pump itself and this did not work either. No wiring issues to the visible eye, and eliminating the switch/relay combined with the fact that its a 20 year old bilge and is in horrible shape, im chalking it up as needing a new bilge pump so Ill replace and update.

 

In retrospect I couldve made sure I was getting power to the bilge wires but my ohm meter is in storage out of state, im lazy, and not that adept at electrical. 

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