Square metal piece found in bilge

[Jeremy805]

1 minute ago, wdr said:

No problem. Trying to build up the karma bank. I am about do to hit a log on the river.

Consider all my good vibes heading your way! We go up to lake Nacimiento and it’s gotten pretty low. I was scared that I hit something and didn’t even know it. Where you located? A few beers away? 

[Jeremy805]

1 minute ago, wdr said:

No problem. Trying to build up the karma bank. I am about do to hit a log on the river.

Consider all my good vibes heading your way! We go up to lake Nacimiento and it’s gotten pretty low. I was scared that I hit something and didn’t even know it. 

[wdr]

Clarksville, TN. But I spent a number of years in Camp Pendleton and Fort Ord, CA.  Just a couple beers away. Have a great remaining summer.

[electricjohn]

Ruder  shaft, where the zerks are.  It has a tendency to pop out if you use too much grease.

Edited August 3, 2020 by electricjohn

[Jeremy805]

7 minutes ago, electricjohn said:

Ruder  shaft, where the zerks are.  It has a tendency to pop out if you use too much grease.

Interesting, I’ll give that a look also.

[Jeremy805]

10 minutes ago, wdr said:

Clarksville, TN. But I spent a number of years in Camp Pendleton and Fort Ord, CA.  Just a couple beers away. Have a great remaining summer.

Cheers to that, thank you for your service. Hope your repair goes smoothly. 

[wdr]

8 minutes ago, electricjohn said:

Ruder  shaft, where the zerks are.  It has a tendency to pop out if you use too much grease.

Good catch. Surprisingly my 2010 I didn't have a zerk for greasing it. You can see where the inner plate had reliefs cut in it for the installing it over a  zerk, but no fittings.

[wdr]

Thanks. 2010 was also the transition year for the weighted tiller arms. Yours probably won’t have the wedge shape block on the end of the tiller arm unless its been upgraded. When I had to replace the rudder the shipping cost alone was crazy expensive.

[Jeremy805]

28 minutes ago, wdr said:

Good catch. Surprisingly my 2010 I didn't have a zerk for greasing it. You can see where the inner plate had reliefs cut in it for the installing it over a  zerk, but no fittings.

I’ll double check for the zerk. If my memory is correct it does not have the weighted filler arm. To clarify, I did not add any grease to the rudder. 

[formulaben]

2 hours ago, wdr said:

The prop shaft sits inside of the prop shaft coupler which mates to the VD. That key stock provides a good portion of the rotational locking force. If there wasn't any key stock in the slot I would venture to say you would of already of found out about it by now.

I really don't want to get into this again, but suffice it to say there was a long thread some years ago about this very thing (especially whether to lube or not the prop shaft prior to installation) and I had to eat some crow regarding keys and how much of a role they play with taper fittings and how much torque force gets transferred into a properly lap fitted taper versus the key itself.  Long story short: if the taper is properly lap fitted and the nut is also torqued correctly, the key really doesn't do much.  It only kicks in if the nut gets loose.

To quote myself from an earlier post:

1) indeed a taper does provide a LOT of friction if that is the intended purpose, and

2) the key takes a LOT of torque to shear.

 

1 hour ago, wdr said:

Thanks. 2010 was also the transition year for the weighted tiller arms. Yours probably won’t have the wedge shape block on the end of the tiller arm unless its been upgraded. When I had to replace the rudder the shipping cost alone was crazy expensive.

Can anyone explain why the weighted tiller arms are necessary or what benefit they provide?  Nobody I've asked seems to know...

 

2 hours ago, electricjohn said:

Ruder  shaft, where the zerks are.  It has a tendency to pop out if you use too much grease.

Good catch.  Hopefully that's what it is...a LOT easier to reinstall than the flange key.

Edited August 3, 2020 by formulaben

[wdr]

38 minutes ago, formulaben said:

I really don't want to get into this again, but suffice it to say there was a long thread some years ago about this very thing (especially whether to lube or not the prop shaft prior to installation) and I had to eat some crow regarding keys and how much of a role they play with taper fittings and how much torque force gets transferred into a properly lap fitted taper versus the key itself.  Long story short: if the taper is properly lap fitted and the nut is also torqued correctly, the key really doesn't do much.  It only kicks in if the nut gets loose.

To quote myself from an earlier post:

1) indeed a taper does provide a LOT of friction if that is the intended purpose, and

2) the key takes a LOT of torque to shear.

 

Can anyone explain why the weighted tiller arms are necessary or what benefit they provide?  Nobody I've asked seems to know...

 

Good catch.  Hopefully that's what it is...a LOT easier to reinstall than the flange key.

Supposedly, the weighted tiller arm was supposed to reduce or eliminate rudder flutter. I have a friend who has a 2009 LSV w/o the weighted tiller arm and he said he has never noticed a flutter. Surfing I doubt it would make a difference, on a faster DD might be a thing. "Old ski guys" might know.

[formulaben]

That sounds right, seems I never saw these on anything other than a DD until recently.  Flutter makes sense.

[justgary]

1 hour ago, formulaben said:

That sounds right, seems I never saw these on anything other than a DD until recently.  Flutter makes sense.

I'm glad I'm not the only one who remembers the shaft taper discussion. 

[Jeremy805]

im going to assume this small slot is where the key should be. The key is still in the rudder assembly so it’s not that one. 

Edited August 4, 2020 by Jeremy805
Incorrect image url

[Jeremy805]

Can’t figure out how to upload a video yet but I do have some video of the area  

[COOP]

On 8/3/2020 at 3:42 AM, Gary Pelletier said:

Looks like a shear/key way pin.  Believe the only thing that would use that in your engine/bilge area is the prop shaft coupler.  

Thats what it is. 

Also used in the rudder tiller arm.

Edited August 4, 2020 by COOP

[Jeremy805]

3 hours ago, COOP said:

Thats what it is. 

Also used in the rudder tiller arm.

The rudder tiller arm key is in place. Mine is much further in than the photo you posted. All that is coming out of mine is a little bit of the tapered end. I cannot see the tapered end on the prop shaft, looks pretty deep in there. 

[Jeremy805]

here is a video showing a paper clip in the sheer pin slot. It goes in approx .5” I can’t visibly see the sheer pin yet, getting a dental mirror today. 

[Jeremy805]

That is a far in as the paper clip would go. I bent it to give me a measurement point. It hits a solid point about .5” in. 

[Sparky450]

Guys

Could this not be a prop key that fell out of a spare prop box and landed in the bilge. It could have been stuck in the carpet under the seat and fell in the bilge. If your boat is running fine, go have fun.

[Jeremy805]

30 minutes ago, Sparky450 said:

Guys

Could this not be a prop key that fell out of a spare prop box and landed in the bilge. It could have been stuck in the carpet under the seat and fell in the bilge. If your boat is running fine, go have fun.

That’s the assumption I am working on at this point. Just getting fully informed. I didn’t even know this was a part on the boat. 

[wdr]

If that is as far as it goes, quite messing with it you are good to go. 

[cowwboy]

On 8/3/2020 at 11:22 AM, Jeremy805 said:

That’s a possibility but I have cleaned this bilge every time I got out. I’m super ocd about keeping the bilge spotless, you could damn near eat off it. I’ll have to verify the sheer is in currently. 

You would be surprised at were stuff can get lost in the bilge. 
My boat has a t handle drain plug either under my fuel tank or bounced into the hole of the stringer box. Was laying in the bilge next to the drain hole when I left loto and when I got home it was gone. Boat ate an entire T-handle somewhere between the fuel tank and the transom.

I figure one day it'll re-appear or maybe if I sell it someone will be on here trying to figure out how the got an additional drain plug. 

[Jeremy805]

3 hours ago, cowwboy said:

You would be surprised at were stuff can get lost in the bilge. 
My boat has a t handle drain plug either under my fuel tank or bounced into the hole of the stringer box. Was laying in the bilge next to the drain hole when I left loto and when I got home it was gone. Boat ate an entire T-handle somewhere between the fuel tank and the transom.

I figure one day it'll re-appear or maybe if I sell it someone will be on here trying to figure out how the got an additional drain plug. 

Hahahaha that’s just insane. The road does get bumpy headed to the lake and 180 miles one way I’m sure she rattles a good amount. Thanks for helping put my mind at ease. 

[Jeremy805]

5 hours ago, wdr said:

If that is as far as it goes, quite messing with it you are good to go. 

Copy that! I’ll chalk it up to extra parts from the last owner. Thanks again for dealing with my questions and OCD.