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Shocker hitch


rakr

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I looked at one of those back when I had my sterndrive that I would tow in tandem behind my fifth wheel.  That set up caused quite a bit of chucking.  The research I did on it showed mixed results, so I passed.

What specific issue are you trying to solve with it?  Just seems like the boat in your signature behind towed behind a reasonable tow vehicle (I know that is subjective) should tow pretty well.....

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GMC 1500 + VTX. It really does a good job, but we take a 2.5 hour drive probably 5 times a summer and a few others places and it gets pretty “bouncy” going over bridges. 

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Does your current ball mount slop in the receiver?  No reason a vtx should be bouncing a half ton around. Also no reason a half ton should need bags to tow one.  How old is truck, and when was the last time the shocks were changed?  Is the truck suspension stock, or is it lifted or levelled? 

Edited by oldjeep
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I’d also suggest you look for other causes before dropping that kind of coin on a hitch. 
 

Everywhere we tow is over 2.5 hours. Sometimes with an Expedition. A couple times with a Grand Cherokee. And I’ve never experienced what you are complaining about. 

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the concern i would have with a "cushion" hitch is that most of us have surge brakes.  The forward inertia of stopping is what engages the trailer brakes.  What is it going to do to that hitch to have constant push/pull on the bushing?  How is the cushion action of the hitch going to affect the braking of the trailer (soften/delay brake engagement?).

Also, an alternative to bags....HELLWIG Overload Springs  I installed a set of the 2000lb springs on my F-150 and am very satisfied with the results.  I went from 3" drop when loaded to only 1 1/4" drop when loaded.  The bounce from $hitty roads was reduced.  And, there was not enough change in ride quality (unloaded) for me to notice the are even back there. 

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8 hours ago, jjackkrash said:

If you decide to go the hitch route, Gen-Y makes pretty nice (and beefy) torsion-flex hitches.  May be worth a like.  

I have looked at the Gen-Y hitch.  Thought about getting it.  The Gen-Y looks better than the shocker hitch IMO, but it also cost twice as much.

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9 minutes ago, ahopkinsVTX said:

@rakr is your VTX on a single axle? If it is you will need to have it perfectly level and and weight balanced. 

Perfectly level?  Typically you want any trailer a little down in front.  Neutral position tends to lead to a lot of rocking, especially on a single axle with a boat that has most of the weight in the back.

Edited by oldjeep
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ahopkins22LSV
10 minutes ago, oldjeep said:

Perfectly level?  Typically you want any trailer a little down in front.  Neutral position tends to lead to a lot of rocking, especially on a single axle with a boat that has most of the weight in the back.

The only time I’ve every had bouncing, sway or whatever is from an improperly weighted or un-level trailer. A quick google search also says it should be as close to level as possible. Obviously it’s not as important on a single axle for tire wear. My guess is he is light on tongue weight. Maybe slanting down would help that

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28 minutes ago, ahopkinsVTX said:

The only time I’ve every had bouncing, sway or whatever is from an improperly weighted or un-level trailer. A quick google search also says it should be as close to level as possible. Obviously it’s not as important on a single axle for tire wear. My guess is he is light on tongue weight. Maybe slanting down would help that

Could be a tongue weight issue - neutral or negative tongue weight will cause a trailer to be squirrelly.  Although if he is on a factory trailer the tongue weight should be good.

In my experience tilted forward a bit works best regardless of how many axles, dead level on a single axle is twitchy, and tilted back will toss the tow vehicle all over the road.

Edited by oldjeep
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29 minutes ago, oldjeep said:

Could be a tongue weight issue - neutral or negative tongue weight will cause a trailer to be squirrelly.  Although if he is on a factory trailer the tongue weight should be good.

In my experience tilted forward a bit works best regardless of how many axles, dead level on a single axle is twitchy, and tilted back will toss the tow vehicle all over the road.

EXCEPT on tandem/triple torsion axles like many of us have.  If you refer to a post i made about axle weights....torsion axles have no way to equalize the load between the front/middle/rear axles.  1" of raise/drop at the tongue ABSOLUTELY makes a dramatic difference in weight on each axle.  

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Just now, Texan32 said:

EXCEPT on tandem/triple torsion axles like many of us have.  If you refer to a post i made about axle weights....torsion axles have no way to equalize the load between the front/middle/rear axles.  1" of raise/drop at the tongue ABSOLUTELY makes a dramatic difference in weight on each axle.  

It definitely makes a weight difference, but I still tip mine forward an inch or 2. My tires are rated for a lot more than the max load of the trailer.

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In my experience with towing boats, tractors, hay, any type of trailer, you want the trailer sitting level, but you want it weighted towards the front. As others have pointed out, if you have it "balanced", it will get squirrelly in a hurry.

It sounds to me like the bouncing you're experiencing on bridges is due to the humps in the bridge sections. If that's the case, no hitch or suspension mods will eliminate it. It may help deal with it, but not stop it. Towing with different length vehicles and different length trailers, I've found that some combinations get into a bouncing "rhythm" on some bridges, and get progressively worse over a long span. Most of the time simply slowing down will stop the rhythmic bouncing and you just have to maintain a reduced speed until you get over the bridge. Sometimes a concreted section of interstate with expansion joints causes the same issue.

I recently towed with a GMC 1500 from Alabama to Lake Powell and did pretty well except over a few bridges, where I experienced the issue you are describing. Slowing down eliminated the bouncing.

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I just picked up the Gen-Y torsion hitch and it made a huge difference- primarily for frost heaves and rough roads keeping bow/trailer from absorbing bounce.  Towed 2000 miles.  Boat is heavy so I think it helped more than it might on a lighter boat.

IMG-9294.jpg

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It’s single axle and last time I checked it was pretty darn level. I’ll try dropping the hitch a hole and see what happens. 
 

2018 GMC, all stock suspension. 
 

it isn’t bad, just some of the roads/bridges give the set up a pretty good bounce at highway speeds. I usually don’t go over 70 unless passing someone.  

Edited by rakr
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1 hour ago, rakr said:

It’s single axle and last time I checked it was pretty darn level. I’ll try dropping the hitch a hole and see what happens. 
 

2018 GMC, all stock suspension. 
 

it isn’t bad, just some of the roads/bridges give the set up a pretty good bounce at highway speeds. I usually don’t go over 70 unless passing someone.  

I have a '18 Sierra SLT with the Z71 suspension, all stock on 22" stock wheels/tires.  My boat is likely of a similar weight but on dual axles.  I have only towed long distances twice with this truck, but did notice the bounce a bit you are describing, usually around expansion joints at speed.  I believe it is too much give in the rear suspension; it is annoying from time to time but I didn't feel it was dangerous.  I usually tow 5MPH over the limit, so a lot of 75MPH towing (with a little 80MPH on the downhill...yes boys and girls, I am under the weight and speed rating of the tires).  I think airbags would resolve the bouncing issue.  I'm sure stiffer springs (like what you get on the Max Tow package) would also help.  I've considered getting bags but haven't felt like doing that project yet.   

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I would do three steps - 

1. Determine the % of the total weight on the ball. You can do this at a commercial scale - just takes a little math and a patient scale operator. 

2. Adjust the boat to be 10-15% total weight on the ball. 

3. Adjust the height of the ball (via bar changes) to get level or slightly low. 

  

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If you have torsion axles and don't have it close to level, it will increase the load on the low end tires and increase heat in them. Down here in Texas where we regularly see 100+ days those are usually the people you see on the side of the road changing a blowout.

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