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Adding bow cleats


Baldbird

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Hey guys. I recently bought a 2014 23 LSV. It is bad a**! We went to sand bar and realized I have no bow cleats so anchoring was a pain even with front and rear anchor. I was planning to add 2 cleats to bow but dealership recommended adding fiberglass re-enforcement behind cleat. I dont plan to anchor often in rough water so wondering what others have done?? Thanks

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2 hours ago, Ronnie said:

And be ready for your boat to swing all over if you’ve tied off your anchor to a cleat. 
Get a Danik Hook. 

This. The Danik Hook is easy breezy. Set it and forget it.

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16 hours ago, Eagleboy99 said:

Use the eye hook for anchoring.  Cleats  are not designed for ancho loads.  And they do not need to be glass-backed.

Designed to hold it tight to a stationary dock but not a stationary but probably will let loose if over stressed anchor line on bottom?

 

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13 minutes ago, dalt1 said:

Designed to hold it tight to a stationary dock but not a stationary but probably will let loose if over stressed anchor line on bottom?

 

I'll agree with that, but it points out an issue with using cleats for anchors - any wave action is amplified the higher up the anchor mounting point is, and the greater the chance that the anchor will pull when you are rocking.  If he added cleats to the bow you would need to reinforce the backside somehow - not really worth the trouble.  The Danik hook is a good idea if you are opposed to just leaning over the front and tying the anchor to the bow loop which is what I do - maybe someday when I'm old that will be tough, but at 50 its a 10 second thing.  Or just plan ahead and have a leader tied to the bow loop so you can tie the anchor just sitting in the boat.

Edited by oldjeep
  • Like 2
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6 hours ago, oldjeep said:

I'll agree with that, but it points out an issue with using cleats for anchors - any wave action is amplified the higher up the anchor mounting point is, and the greater the chance that the anchor will pull when you are rocking.  If he added cleats to the bow you would need to reinforce the backside somehow - not really worth the trouble.  The Danik hook is a good idea if you are opposed to just leaning over the front and tying the anchor to the bow loop which is what I do - maybe someday when I'm old that will be tough, but at 50 its a 10 second thing.  Or just plan ahead and have a leader tied to the bow loop so you can tie the anchor just sitting in the boat.

I pull it through my bow eye then to my forward cleat to tie it off.

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aren't the cleat locations standard and the added reinforcement is already there?  just a matter of whether you ordered or not

just have to remove interior parts to get to it  ?

Edited by granddaddy55
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Can't speak for newer models, but when I drilled holes for a bow cleat on my boat it was plenty thick...way thicker than where the factory cleats were.  Having said that, I use the bow hook for the anchor line.

 

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 year later...

Just got my 09 VTX back from the dealer. Lots of service done before it heads to Lake Havasu for the fall/winter/spring seasons. Too short a boating season here in Utah so this allows us to use it year round. Anyway long story, back on topic. Had them add bow cleats cause I’m tired of having to hang over the bow to use the bow eyelet for extra dock lines. Will still use the bow eyelet for anchoring. 488 installed. They said the fiberglass was plenty thick up there for them and where Malibu says to mount them.

2B63755B-97C1-4E1F-95FB-798ED52ECBA0.jpeg

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  • 2 weeks later...

We added same 4 cleats on our Sunsetter this year..  The Gunwale thickness is about 3/4" and should be not issue as long as use backing plates behind.  We dock our boats in very rough area but they are holding up very well so far and there is no sign of spider cracks....   Initially I was little concerned little about this since the same area of our Crownline 290SS is as three time as thick as our Malibu.   But it is apple to orange in comparison...

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