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Battery Switch Selector Question


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On 7/14/2020 at 8:39 AM, statefan said:

Are you sure it's not on/off/both? I've never seen a switch that has 1/off/both. My 2011 LSV has the on/off/both and if that's the case with yours you need to be running it on "on" 99% of the time. On my switch, "Both" has a yellow hazard labeling and is to be used when you need to manually combine both batteries to crank the boat with the standard "on" setting won't get it done. This doesn't help your batteries running down problem but definitely take a closer look at your switch. For your cranking vs. stereo battery, one of the batteries is likely labeled a "deep cycle" which would be your stereo battery. 

 

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State Fan: are you running two AGM Deep Cycle batteries vs one cranking and one house. What makes are you using. I checked mine and mine both say 800 ccc Cranking.

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21 hours ago, Stoofpilot said:

State Fan: are you running two AGM Deep Cycle batteries vs one cranking and one house. What makes are you using. I checked mine and mine both say 800 ccc Cranking.

I'm running one cranking and one deep cycle. Both are Autocraft batteries that I put in about a year ago....nothing fancy. I don't have the CCA handy as we just got home and the boat is at the lake. It's my understanding you want one of each though....especially with your battery switch setup. 

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  • 1 year later...

I've got an '00 VLX with 2 batteries on an isolator switch.  I'm going to update the switch to include the Blue Sea Systems VSR.  What systems should be running off of each battery?

  • Cranking:  I assume all systems associated with the engine and "stock" accessories (e.g. starter, blower, bilge pump, heater, stock MLS ballast pump, lights)
  • House:  After markets stereo w/amps

What about...

  • After market ballast pumps (3)?
  • After market Perfect Pass?
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