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Ramp-N-Clamp and Malibu/Axis


formerathlete

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47 minutes ago, formerathlete said:

Just talked to Joe. He's going to send me the Ramp-N-Clamp he uses for Mastercraft boats as it drops the bow lower (where it rests on the orange material) and will result in my hull resting on the bunks the way it's supposed to. However, to do so, it requires the extended bow eye. So, I guess I'll have to swap out my bow-eye to make it work, dangit. He believes the Sport Model is just lifting my boat a bit too much. He hasn't seen this problem on any of the Malibu boats yet but didn't discuss whether anyone at Malibu is using it on Axis boats. So, @dalt1, hopefully it will work on your Malibu. You have a different running surface than I have on mine, so maybe you'll be okay.

Have fun getting to the bow eye.  Hopefully it is easier than it was when I installed and then uninstalled one on my 2012.  Also make sure to pick up some 3m 4200 to seal it with.

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On 7/20/2020 at 6:01 AM, wdr said:

If you guys need the room to install them in the garage or driveway, just jack up the trailer with the front axle cross member. It will allow the trailer tongue to drop a good couple of inches to unload the rollers.

Easier for me to just put support on the bow just in front of the front bunks and then crank the trailer jack down. Lifts bow right off the roller. Only reason I cant install is boat is parked about 1/2" forward of where it will be with ramp n clamp so I cant get bow Eye into latch slot. Will do it Saturday after splashing boat.image.thumb.png.86d2d3772909b72242a87fef3c92268b.pngimage.thumb.png.67780a156a2c4ed8c8554e7ba7d8e3d1.png

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11 minutes ago, formerathlete said:

You could still install it and just use your winch strap. No need to have the latch engaged as long as winch is hooked up. 

His boat is too far forward to install it.

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3 hours ago, oldjeep said:

His boat is too far forward to install it.

For some reason I read his post as saying it was too far back instead of too far forward. I need to slow down and read 😬.

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18 hours ago, oldjeep said:

Have fun getting to the bow eye.  Hopefully it is easier than it was when I installed and then uninstalled one on my 2012.  Also make sure to pick up some 3m 4200 to seal it with.

Did you change out your bow eye when boat was on trailer with bow roller still on trailer and without having to move boat further back at all? 

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6 minutes ago, formerathlete said:

Did you change out your bow eye when boat was on trailer with bow roller still on trailer and without having to move boat further back at all? 

When I did it I planned ahead.  The weekend before when I loaded the boat I let it sit back a few inches from the bow eye.  I only live a few miles from the ramp, so I wasn't concerned about it.  Then I replaced the bow loop, installed the ramp n clamp and then took the trailer out in the street - loosened the transom straps and brake checked the boat into the clamp.

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5 hours ago, justgary said:

I think I'd chop/drill/weld the trailer post to make the new clamp fit before I would change the bow eye in the boat.

Really? Why? Access? I haven’t changed mine yet but I’ve already tested getting a wrench on the two nuts from the inside and it won’t be too bad. I actually think it will be pretty straightforward (just difficult to access easily). Remove the two nuts and the existing bow eye, install the new one with some sealant and torque the nuts down. The strength is in the hull right there, not the bow eye install (as long as it’s tightened properly).

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3 hours ago, formerathlete said:

Really? Why? Access? I haven’t changed mine yet but I’ve already tested getting a wrench on the two nuts from the inside and it won’t be too bad. I actually think it will be pretty straightforward (just difficult to access easily). Remove the two nuts and the existing bow eye, install the new one with some sealant and torque the nuts down. The strength is in the hull right there, not the bow eye install (as long as it’s tightened properly).

Bet you drop at least 1 if not both nuts on the inside to disappear into the hull and never be seen again that day!:whistle:

  • Haha 2
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You might see them again. 1 year later, when I figured I could shop vac 2 gal or so out of the hull, to completely have a dry hull, I sucked up some items that clinked going into the shop vac. Checked and found several things I had dropped into the hull in the last 3 years. Funny.

Edited by carguy79ta
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9 hours ago, carguy79ta said:

You might see them again. 1 year later, when I figured I could shop vac 2 gal or so out of the hull, to completely have a dry hull, I sucked up some items that clinked going into the shop vac. Checked and found several things I had dropped into the hull in the last 3 years. Funny.

That's why I said "that day", They eventually work their way to the low spot.

 

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Looks good. If no trailer bunk issues, you’re set. I’ll be receiving the other one on Tuesday and will install on Wed., hopefully. 

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On 7/24/2020 at 5:51 PM, formerathlete said:

Really? Why? Access? I haven’t changed mine yet but I’ve already tested getting a wrench on the two nuts from the inside and it won’t be too bad. I actually think it will be pretty straightforward (just difficult to access easily). Remove the two nuts and the existing bow eye, install the new one with some sealant and torque the nuts down. The strength is in the hull right there, not the bow eye install (as long as it’s tightened properly).

Mostly because I view a trailer as eventually disposable, but the boat should have its original parts when possible.  

Oh, and I like chopping/drilling/welding.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Installed extended bow eye and sealant without issue and added lower profile RampNClamp and it works as expected. Bow sits about 1/4”-3/8” higher than it did with bow roller but hull is still contacting front bunks, so I’m going to stick with it. 

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  • 5 months later...

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