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2002 Response LX starting/ running issue. Please help.


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Hello everyone,

I have a 2002 Response LX, 325 Monsoon EFI engine, with 400 hrs on it. I've owned the boat for one year and it has always started reliably. Temps have been upper 80s or low 90s where I live. Last weekend, I noticed that in the middle of the day, my boat would start, run rough for a few seconds while fluctuating RPM, and then stall. It happened 4 or 5 times, then it would run normal. After this, I changed the fuel filter, and added some gas treatment to my tank. I always run 90 octane non ethanol fuel. Fast forward to this weekend, and the same thing happened. The boat would run fine in the morning during some skiing, and then later in the day would have trouble starting, or ran very rough. I would attempt to give it a little gas in neutral, and the boat backfired. after this happened, I tried running the blower for a few minutes and opening the engine cover, but this didn't seem to help. I loaded it onto the trailer and had the same issues, Even tried running it on the trailer with the hose hooked up and it just didn't run right. Fluctuating rpms, and a very rough idle. 

I've been told it could be vapor lock. Can anyone explain what that actually means? Some other suggestions I've had were to install a low pressure fuel pump, change fuel pump, or just leave the engine cover open after running the boat. (I feel like I should not need to leave the engine cover up each time we ski). Could this have anything to do with the higher air temps? After a little research, I found out that there's a small screen on the fuel pump. I will attempt to clean that out this weekend. Does anyone have experience with this issue? Looking for some help. I appreciate it!

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3 hours ago, jas1068 said:

Hello everyone,

I have a 2002 Response LX, 325 Monsoon EFI engine, with 400 hrs on it. I've owned the boat for one year and it has always started reliably. Temps have been upper 80s or low 90s where I live. Last weekend, I noticed that in the middle of the day, my boat would start, run rough for a few seconds while fluctuating RPM, and then stall. It happened 4 or 5 times, then it would run normal. After this, I changed the fuel filter, and added some gas treatment to my tank. I always run 90 octane non ethanol fuel. Fast forward to this weekend, and the same thing happened. The boat would run fine in the morning during some skiing, and then later in the day would have trouble starting, or ran very rough. I would attempt to give it a little gas in neutral, and the boat backfired. after this happened, I tried running the blower for a few minutes and opening the engine cover, but this didn't seem to help. I loaded it onto the trailer and had the same issues, Even tried running it on the trailer with the hose hooked up and it just didn't run right. Fluctuating rpms, and a very rough idle. 

I've been told it could be vapor lock. Can anyone explain what that actually means? Some other suggestions I've had were to install a low pressure fuel pump, change fuel pump, or just leave the engine cover open after running the boat. (I feel like I should not need to leave the engine cover up each time we ski). Could this have anything to do with the higher air temps? After a little research, I found out that there's a small screen on the fuel pump. I will attempt to clean that out this weekend. Does anyone have experience with this issue? Looking for some help. I appreciate it!

When is the last time the engine had a complete tune up (plugs, wires, cap, and rotor)?  This has a high likelihood of fixing your issue.

After you do that, change the ICM under the distributor cap if it still doesn't run right.

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Hmm I never thought of that! I've only owned the boat a year and I haven't changed those things yet. Do I need to get marine grade wires and rotor? I figured the spark plugs wouldn't matter as much. Also what is the ICM?

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Internet Control Module !  Ha, Ignition Control Module. Summit Racing has them in the $60 range. But, I'll bet you can get them at your local auto place for cheaper. Take yours with you. 99 suburban V8 should do. I have the same engine. I think mine is okay, but am going to change it as preventative soon. It's under and a part of the distributor cap. Looks super easy to change, other than the screws that hold mine down look nasty. 

If your engine is running poorly now, even when cold it sounds like it is ready for a full tune up like justgary said. I just got nice 8mm blue wires at Summit for $40.00. When you do the plugs remember to gap them and I think they should be .045

You probably want to do rotor and cap as a kit. I just looked for ones that had brass conductors. I think I got MSD. Again summit racing. They are close by to me :)

Steve B.

Edited by Steve B.
Added some info
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That's the weird part. It's not running poorly when cold. It starts right up and runs fine in the morning. I think it's something to do with the heat. As this problem only happens in the middle of the day when it's very hot outside. I can hear the engine rpm fluctuate as the EFI delivers more fuel then more air to get the engine running right. That's what led me to believe the problem is with fuel delivery. I know I'm probably due for a tune up anyway, so I can do that as well. I'm just not sure thats what the problem is. I was told to check the fuel pump screen for crud as well.

Anyone else have this issue? Again, it runs fine in the morning, but later in the day stalls alot, idles rough a few times. Then finally, I turn the key and it runs smooth again. 

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2 hours ago, jas1068 said:

That's the weird part. It's not running poorly when cold. It starts right up and runs fine in the morning. I think it's something to do with the heat. As this problem only happens in the middle of the day when it's very hot outside. I can hear the engine rpm fluctuate as the EFI delivers more fuel then more air to get the engine running right. That's what led me to believe the problem is with fuel delivery. I know I'm probably due for a tune up anyway, so I can do that as well. I'm just not sure thats what the problem is. I was told to check the fuel pump screen for crud as well.

Anyone else have this issue? Again, it runs fine in the morning, but later in the day stalls alot, idles rough a few times. Then finally, I turn the key and it runs smooth again. 

What happens if you pour a bunch of cold lake water on the fuel pump before you attempt to start it when hot out?

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2 hours ago, jas1068 said:

... I can hear the engine rpm fluctuate as the EFI delivers more fuel then more air to get the engine running right...

You can't really tell anything on an efi engine by listening to it run.  For example, a random spark advance caused by a bad ICM will behave just like a sticky idle air control motor. 

You could have one or more of a wide variety of problems.  You have to do the tune up before you can diagnose any further. 

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16 hours ago, UWSkier said:

What happens if you pour a bunch of cold lake water on the fuel pump before you attempt to start it when hot out?

I haven't tried that yet. Will do it next time though for sure!

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15 hours ago, justgary said:

You can't really tell anything on an efi engine by listening to it run.  For example, a random spark advance caused by a bad ICM will behave just like a sticky idle air control motor. 

You could have one or more of a wide variety of problems.  You have to do the tune up before you can diagnose any further. 

okay. Make's sense. I'll give her the tune up and go from there!

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I am having the same problem basically. I have posted a couple times on this and have not really received much good feedback; 

My post. curious where this thread ended up. 

I have a 23LSV 2004 with the 340 Monsoon engine. It just got to 413 hours. At 400 hours I did a spark plug, cap and wires job. I also changed the motor oil, v drive oil and tranny oil. The impeller was done last season and is fine. 

What is happening; When I go for a cruise or to tow someone the boat performs fine. Then once done cruising/towing, I come to a stop and the boat starts to beep consistently. Then shortly after the engine begins rev up and down going between idle and one hundred +/- rpm up and then back down. Then once I shut the boat off and turn it back on the beeping goes away at idle. Then once I go for a cruise or tow again the pattern repeats itself. There is no display on the dash saying there is an issue. Oil pressure is indicating fine, the temperature of the boat is dead on too voltage is spot on. 

I don't think it is a fuel issue because it never has a hard time starting, will go wide open easily, has no issues at any throttle point. Filter was replaced two years back...  

I am not sure if it is something to do with the oil sensor (level is spot on),

the IACV might be the culprit, the V-drive pressure switch,

The boat is not over heating or experiencing any low voltage codess. It is not going into limp mode.

Not sure what to do at this point other than starting to buy sensors and trying them one by one. Thoughts? 

 

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  • 1 month later...

Ok after having replaced the AIC and PCV these two were not the issue. It ended up being a dead short in the Distributor Control Module. Which if you buy online for Marine it is going to cost you $247 and if you buy from O'Reilly or any of the other car places its going to run you about $90.00. Long story short the boat is running perfect. Thank you for the input. 

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2 minutes ago, Steve B. said:

Jas, is it running good now. I am a little surprised vapor lock wasn't mentioned. Those symptoms sound a lot like it.

Steve B.

That's why I asked about the cold water trick.  :)

 

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I believe it was vapor lock. The issue went away after I propped the engine cover open between uses, and i've been running the blower much more frequently. I found that leaving the blower on during the ski runs, and for 10 minutes after has really helped me. I also keep an empty water bottle onboard to cool off the fuel pump just in case. I haven't had to do that yet though. 

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