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I’ve got a 2013 Wakesetter with the caddy engine. Took it to the lake yesterday, and anchored in a cove for a lunch break and let the kids swim for about an hour. Turned the engine off. Went to restart it and it would turn over repeatedly, but not start. After several tries, it finally started. Ran fine for the rest of the day. Engine temp and oil pressure were perfect all day. End of the day, kids wanted another swim break, and like an idiot I turned the boat off again. This time, it never restarted and I ended up getting a tow back to the launch from a buddy. Turns over fine, so I know it’s not a battery issue. All the shops in my area are booked out for weeks due to being shut down for a month at the start of the season. Any obvious things I should check first? I’d love to get it back up and running without waiting til August.

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Don't completely rule out the batteries as a potential cause.  If the battery voltage drops below 11 volts during cranking, the ECM can power off and then the fuel pump, injectors, and ignition also turn off while cranking.  I have seen this happen in the shop where an engine would crank and start, then later it would only crank but did not start until the battery was replaced.  It is uncommon, but still happens.

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Batteries are perfect. Changed the spark plugs - didn’t help. Guessing fuel pump. How challenging is it to replace one of those? 

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42 minutes ago, Jlarsen79 said:

Guessing fuel pump.

Rather than guessing, diagnose.  The no-start guide that @tvano posted is a good one.

Do you for sure have spark?  Have you tested the fuel pressure?

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Sorry, yes, I agree it’s a useful guide. I don’t hear any sound from the fuel pump when I turn the key on, which is why I was guessing it was a fuel pump issue. I have installed brand new spark plugs and will install new wires tomorrow (I accidentally broke a wire when replacing the plugs - the little metal piece inside the wire came off on one of the plugs). I’m not the most mechanically inclined guy on the planet, but am trying to tackle what I can since the real mechanics are booked three weeks out. Looking at videos of fuel pump replacements is kinda intimidating. 😬

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The no start guide is a great checklist. Most of the time your problem will be something stupid like the gear shift not in neutral or the kill switch or the batteries being off some or a loose battery cable on a perfect battery.  Spark plugs don’t usually cause a no start issue, and while IDk about your specific engine, most spark plugs will last 500 hours or so.   

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Thanks Bozboat! I’ve triple checked batteries, and my kill switch has a cover on it that prevents it from being flipped without sticking a screwdriver up there and flipping the switch. Sounds like spark plugs were a wasted guess on my part, but I did those before reviewing the checklist. I don’t hear anything from the fuel pump when I turn the ignition on, so it seems like that has to be the issue...

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1 hour ago, Jlarsen79 said:

Thanks Bozboat! I’ve triple checked batteries, and my kill switch has a cover on it that prevents it from being flipped without sticking a screwdriver up there and flipping the switch. Sounds like spark plugs were a wasted guess on my part, but I did those before reviewing the checklist. I don’t hear anything from the fuel pump when I turn the ignition on, so it seems like that has to be the issue...

You could test the voltage at the fuel pump and the pump relay before you change it.  You could bypass the safety switch. 

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start with cheap and easy then move on to more difficult and more expensive

that missing 5 seconds of fuel pump at "key on" is consistent with safety lanyard

bypass it while troubleshooting knowing it's a safety feature you would like to put back in play

then swap the relays around to see if your symptoms move.  easy and zero cost.

 

Edited by tvano
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