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Summer trailer worries


BlacknBu

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Is it just me or do others worry when about to trailer their rig 3-4 hours? I've never had a blowout tire or seized bearing, but I do see all the nightmare stories of when it happens. :shocked:

About to head down to Norris lake this week, which is normally a 3.5 hours drive from my residence. I typically never tow over 1-1.5 hours away & this will be my first trip. I feel overly worried about bearings or blowouts. I have the 06' trailer with oil bath bearings and probably my largest worry. I picked up a set of all bearing replacements for 1 wheel, but I know if it fails on the road that probably wont help me much. 

Trailer has sticker stating for oil baths to be 100% full (yes i have read all about the 75% full or 100% threads and just going off what trailer states). 3 of the 4 bearings are 100% full, with 1 of the bearings only 50% full (none appear milky or show signs of leaking. I jacked the trailer, pulled the wheel, and attempted to get the plumbing screw off to top off but its jammed. I stopped in fear of stripping the allen & me leaving in 2 days.

Should I be saying fug it and do everything i can to get it off and fill? Or ride it being 50% full? 

*Trailer has new tires all around & will be ensuring tire pressure is set all the way around before we depart . Hubs and brakes must be original, definitely will be replacing after this trip. Pads have ~50% meat left on them so not overly concerned there.

*All lugs are torqued to 115 lbs spec. 

*Free spun all the wheels and do not hear any noise coming from the wheels indicating bad bearings. 

*Brake fluid is marked right on dipstick as it should be. 

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Nah. We trailer ours all the time, usually 2.5 hours each way. Twice a year we tow 4 hours into Arkansas. If you are prepared you won’t be a victim of the horror stories we’ve all read. Keep your trailer in top shape and you greatly decrease the odds of issues. But also be prepared for one if it were to happen. I carry a floor jack, breaker bar with the correct socket, and a set of spare bearings. If something goes wrong, we are only sidelined for an hour or so... not a weekend ending tow in.

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38 minutes ago, BlacknBu said: I picked up a set of all bearing replacements for 1 wheel, but I know if it fails on the road that probably wont help me much. 

Why wouldn’t they help? YouTube how to change them, very very simple. Need a wrench and tube of grease.

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To try to remove that allen plug - get yourself a manual impact driver, the kind you hit with a hammer.  First heat it up and apply some penetrating oil.  Then use the impact driver with a hex bit on it,  It really helps shock loose fasteners that might otherwise want to strip without the extra vibration and downward force.

 

SOmething like this one

https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-2905-8-Inch-Manual-7-Piece/dp/B000NPPATS/ref=asc_df_B000NPPATS

 

Edited by oldjeep
  • Like 1
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8 minutes ago, BlindSquirrel said:

Why wouldn’t they help? YouTube how to change them, very very simple. Need a wrench and tube of grease.

My statement is directed that if the oil bath seal fails or the cap cracks from pressure, the 50W oil that's in there will be gone in minutes. By the time i notice it I am sure the bearing would be welded or something would need repair beyond just swapping out the bearing. 

I am more than likely overly worried and making sure I am prepared, just would hate for my kiddos bday weekend at the lake get ruined for trailer issues. lol

 

@oldjeep I have an impact, but stopped myself from using it when my allen tool would not budge it. Wouldn't I want to avoid using any penetrating oil on the fill plug, as it would just put that oil directly into my bearing grease? 

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when you jack it up, its not so much the free spinning, which is important, its whether the wheel moves when you push/pull it snd it moves.  if no movement and rear seals show no sign of leak your probably good but that 50% sounds like one is leaking at rear seal, @oldjeep knows whats up.  

i carry a complete vault, rotor, arm spare from boatmate on my long trips, (3 hours not very long but anything can happen in road), boatmate is near you and can overnight a complete wheel assembly if they are your manufacturer 

im useless on the side of road and plan to call one of those trucker road side  maintenance guys to come replace mine with the part i carry

probably should get that Progressive rider on my policy that covers repairs and travel lodging snd meals for trailer trip interruption

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how do you tell one is 50%, is their a see thru port on a vault

boatmate tells me, snd i have asked three times or more from their tech guy who is the parts manager , should i service my vaults (6 yrs this year but asked him year 3,4,5) and his reply is always, check rear seal for leak snd check wheel for wobble while on jack (haven't done this year snd now with this thread i will) 

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8 minutes ago, BlacknBu said:

My statement is directed that if the oil bath seal fails or the cap cracks from pressure, the 50W oil that's in there will be gone in minutes. By the time i notice it I am sure the bearing would be welded or something would need repair beyond just swapping out the bearing. 

I am more than likely overly worried and making sure I am prepared, just would hate for my kiddos bday weekend at the lake get ruined for trailer issues. lol

 

@oldjeep I have an impact, but stopped myself from using it when my allen tool would not budge it. Wouldn't I want to avoid using any penetrating oil on the fill plug, as it would just put that oil directly into my bearing grease? 

Seems unlikely that any appreciable amount of penetrating oil is going to wind up in your oil.  You're not going to submerse it in a vat, just try to get some in the threads.

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Looks like you are very prepared.

My suggestion which provides me peace of mind is to add tire pressure monitoring of the trailer tires.   The system monitors not only tire pressure but internal tire temperature.   This has saved me several times.   Alarms on low pressure and high temperature.  Every year we drive 8 1/2 hours to Lake Shasta from Portland Oregon.  Driving at night or early morning this is a great way to know whats going on before you have a catastrophic failure.   Caught several types of problems - Flat in progress, Brake hung up, bearing over heating.  

http://www.trailertpms.com/home.html

http://www.trailertpms.com/images/Trailer_TPMS_Flyer_1_Page_.pdf

 

 

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Just now, granddaddy55 said:

how do you tell one is 50%, is their a see thru port on a vault

boatmate tells me, snd i have asked three times or more from their tech guy who is the parts manager , should i service my vaults (6 yrs this year but asked him year 3,4,5) and his reply is always, check rear seal for leak snd check wheel for wobble while on jack (haven't done this year snd now with this thread i will) 

My vaults are at 8 years with no service ;)   But no leaking and the end piston is still bumped out, so I have no reason to mess with them.

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Just now, oldjeep said:

My vaults are at 8 years with no service ;)   But no leaking and the end piston is still bumped out, so I have no reason to mess with them.

i knew boatmate was right!!!!!!!

they even said that at ten years if your in same condition, leave them alone

 

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1 minute ago, granddaddy55 said:

how do you tell one is 50%, is their a see thru port on a vault

boatmate tells me, snd i have asked three times or more from their tech guy who is the parts manager , should i service my vaults (6 yrs this year but asked him year 3,4,5) and his reply is always, check rear seal for leak snd check wheel for wobble while on jack (haven't done this year snd now with this thread i will) 

I have the oil bath golds, not the vault system. Has the looking glass to see levels of oil and for water intrusion. 

about to go throw it up on the jack now to check for play in the wheel + i'll see if I can get the fill screw to budge. 

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5 minutes ago, BlacknBu said:

I have the oil bath golds, not the vault system. Has the looking glass to see levels of oil and for water intrusion. 

about to go throw it up on the jack now to check for play in the wheel + i'll see if I can get the fill screw to budge. 

get one of those drive on wheel lifts , called trailer aid, yellow is cheaper, black is s bit more but under $35-45 delivered , much easier on side of road than a jack or at home 

the moderator posted it last year snd i ordered it that day snd checked my wheels two days layer

Edited by granddaddy55
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57 minutes ago, Eagleboy99 said:

Or roll your own (pun intended)!  

 

didn't even think about how easy this would make it. I have some car ramps for changing oil on the wifes car in the garage. i'll just put it half way up one of those bad boys for now so its not too much pressure on the other side of trailer, leave it on hitched to the truck, and chalk the downward slope of the ramp. 

having to remove the tire to get to the fill plug is a PIA knowing the oil in these should be drained/refilled for maintenance. 

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2 minutes ago, BlacknBu said:

didn't even think about how easy this would make it.

Yeah, a few 2x6 or 2x8 cut-offs, some PL400 and  few deck screws to hold it together until the glue sets and you are golden. I'd go at least 4 2-bys wide though.  And yeah, chock the heck out of it so it does not roll off, and potentially onto you.

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4 minutes ago, BlacknBu said:

didn't even think about how easy this would make it. I have some car ramps for changing oil on the wifes car in the garage. i'll just put it half way up one of those bad boys for now so its not too much pressure on the other side of trailer, leave it on hitched to the truck, and chalk the downward slope of the ramp. 

having to remove the tire to get to the fill plug is a PIA knowing the oil in these should be drained/refilled for maintenance. 

How well this works depends on if you have torsion axles or a tandem spring setup.  Personally I use the truck jack.

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7 minutes ago, oldjeep said:

How well this works depends on if you have torsion axles or a tandem spring setup.  Personally I use the truck jack.

definitely have torsion axles. 06' boatmate tandem axle trailer. 

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19 minutes ago, BlacknBu said:

definitely have torsion axles. 06' boatmate tandem axle trailer. 

why bother making one,  get the yellow trailer aid on prime

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2 minutes ago, granddaddy55 said:

why bother making one,  get the yellow trailer aid on prime

 

Not making one. Going to use a ramp that I have like below which will serve the same purpose. 

 

I leave in less than 48 hours so ordering one right now doesnt help me get'r done today. :) 

 

10157442_rhi_11912_pri_larg.jpg

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8 minutes ago, BlacknBu said:

 

Not making one. Going to use a ramp that I have like below which will serve the same purpose. 

 

I leave in less than 48 hours so ordering one right now doesnt help me get'r done today. :) 

 

10157442_rhi_11912_pri_larg.jpg

Just realize that when you use that method rather than a jack that you are doubling the weight on the tire that you are running up the ramp.  So if you have the factory provided - don't have enough weight capacity C rated tires then this is really overloading the tire.

Edited by oldjeep
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1 minute ago, oldjeep said:

Just realize that when you use that method rather than a jack that you are doubling the weight on the tire that you are running up the ramp.  So if you have the factory provided - don't have enough weight capacity C rated tires then this is really overloading the tire.

I'm no math major, but I doubt it is doubling. I'd have to ask my kid who is a math savant.  She calculates all my angles for me.  :)

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Check air pressure in spare tire. Remember if you do get a flat loosen flat lug nuts before jacking up. Flat tires are usually shredded so be prepared for possible fender damage. Front flats rub the fender back flats can snag the fender and fold up.

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Just now, Eagleboy99 said:

I'm no math major, but I doubt it is doubling. I'd have to ask my kid who is a math savant.  She calculates all my angles for me.  :)

Well the weight is going somewhere, and not much should transfer to the hitch.

Don't have to be a math major to figure out that each tire is supporting 1/4 of the trailer weight less tongue weight (assuming a level trailer).  And when you use one tire to lift the other tire on that side it is going to take most of the weight that was on that tire - some may go to the tongue and a little may transfer to the other side depending on if the trailer frame actually tilts to the other side or if the suspension compresses enough to keep it level.

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5 minutes ago, oldjeep said:

Well the weight is going somewhere, and not much should transfer to the hitch.

Don't have to be a math major to figure out that each tire is supporting 1/4 of the trailer weight less tongue weight (assuming a level trailer).  And when you use one tire to lift the other tire on that side it is going to take most of the weight that was on that tire - some may go to the tongue and a little may transfer to the other side depending on if the trailer frame actually tilts to the other side or if the suspension compresses enough to keep it level.

I am certain that there is sin/cosine, tan type stuff going on here.  A few lever arms etc.  That much I do know. Besides, if you jack one side entirely (would have to be a heckuva jack!), then woulnd't the weight on the other side double according to your calcs?  

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