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Fuel Sending Unit and Perfect Pass Issues


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I have a 2003 Malibu Wakesetter 23 LSV and having an issue with my fuel gauge and Perfect Pass.  The fuel gauge is stuck on full so I suspect my fuel sending unit has gone bad and my Perfect Pass overshoots and undershoots by 2-3 mph so I really need to figure this one out because it makes wakeboarding really not enjoyable.

Two questions:  1) can anyone advise location and how to access the fuel sending unit (I think it may be under the floor section in the middle of the boat in the top of the fuel tank) and 2) any suggestions on how to figure out the problem with the Perfect Pass and how to fix?

Thanks for any inputs or suggestions.

Thanks,
Doug

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1) Fuel Sender is located under the center floor panel, you'll remove the 4 screws that hold it in and maybe need to wiggle the back seat. Replacement with a new and better sender is a matter of crimping to wires nicely.

2) Re; Perfectpass wander; Have you reset the configuration (engine configuration) settings on it (or added weight)? The easiest way to help it compensate better is by increasing the load value; much like crew weight; increasing the compensation is very helpful for the situation you describe.

Quote

KDW (Adjustable Pull Characteristics) The pull can be quickly adjusted to tailor your boat, load and riding style. KDW is accessed by turning the control off, then pressing the Up & Down Keys together. A typical value is 80. If the engine is slow to react to rider’s pull, an adjustment may be necessary. Boats with larger loads may require much higher values such as 80. The higher the number, the more aggressive the system will control speed corrections. After changing KDW, press Menu and NN will appear. (Normal KDW range is 80 – 160).

http://www.perfectpass.com/sites/all/themes/perfectpass - Copy/images/wakeboardpro2005.pdf

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1 hour ago, smileysteve said:

1) Fuel Sender is located under the center floor panel, you'll remove the 4 screws that hold it in and maybe need to wiggle the back seat. Replacement with a new and better sender is a matter of crimping to wires nicely.

2) Re; Perfectpass wander; Have you reset the configuration (engine configuration) settings on it (or added weight)? The easiest way to help it compensate better is by increasing the load value; much like crew weight; increasing the compensation is very helpful for the situation you describe.

http://www.perfectpass.com/sites/all/themes/perfectpass - Copy/images/wakeboardpro2005.pdf

Thanks, this is really helpful.  Another data point to share, my speedometer (analog diall) works and seems to align pretty well with digital readout on the perfect pass display, however my RPM gauge does not work (it went out several years ago) so I wonder if that has anything to do with the perfect pass now having issues.

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4 hours ago, dgarrison66 said:

Thanks, this is really helpful.  Another data point to share, my speedometer (analog diall) works and seems to align pretty well with digital readout on the perfect pass display, however my RPM gauge does not work (it went out several years ago) so I wonder if that has anything to do with the perfect pass now having issues.

If your tach signal is disconnected, perfectpass definitely won't be working as it should; You should be able to see the rpms on your perfectpass display as well.

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Have you performed all of the servo and linkage tests available on the PerfectPass support page?  I'd start there.  Also, as mentioned, the gray wire tap for PP which feeds RPM data must be working or it'll be a janky pull.

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I wanted to share an update that I removed the fuel sending unit and tested it by sliding the float up and down and the fuel gauge responded.  I think that the float may have gotten stuck somehow at the top and it always read full but when I removed it the float started sliding again.  Just for reference, my unit had QC-1 on the top flange and 085086 on the bottom.  It measures 7 3/4" long with the float being 1 1/4" long and 1 1/4" in diameter.  Attaching pics for reference.  I reinstalled it and will try it out on the lake next weekend.  For reference, I found this link on Amazon that appears to be an equivalent replacement:  https://www.amazon.com/KUS-USA-Water-Level-Sensor/dp/B00Y831J6Y?th=1&psc=1

I was going to attach pics but it appears this forum won't let me attach a picture.

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I tend to run my PP in RPM mode most of the time for barefooting, free skiing, and cruising.  It gives a very consistent pull without reliance on (slightly varying) speed input from the GPS.

Try yours in RPM to see if it works correctly, and if so, see if you like it better.  If it doesn't work, you probably do have a signal problem with the tach wire.

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@justgary - I tend to barefoot manually, what is your PP setup or which page do you use for footing?  I keep thinking using one of the other menu pages would be interesting application for footing, although I have never tried it as my main driver tends to simply want manual.

@dgarrison66 - Comments on PP:  system is very sensitive to good electrical signals (grounds and a clean 12 volt source) and a clean tach signal so I suggest you troubleshoot them and PP likes a strong throttle return spring.  PP website has great troubleshooting videos and literature.

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6 minutes ago, Woodski said:

@justgary - I tend to barefoot manually, what is your PP setup or which page do you use for footing?  I keep thinking using one of the other menu pages would be interesting application for footing, although I have never tried it as my main driver tends to simply want manual.

It has been quite a while since I even had it out of RPM mode, so I don't remember details of how to get it there.  As I recall, you press "Mode" until you see RPM.

My experienced driver knows what I like, so I generally don't need to say much.  Depending on whether we have a third person in the boat, I usually use about 3950 RPM or so (for around 39 MPH when I'm on a tether off the boom).  Once the system is on and in RPM mode, you just diddle the up/down buttons to set the RPM you desire.

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