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Prop removal w/o a puller.


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Went over a submerged log yesterday at idle speed and in neutral, but it still put a slight curl on two of the blades. How hard is it to get prop off? I can model a puller out of a C-clamp if necessary.  19 seasons of crystal clear lake operation and prop has never been removed yet, if that matters. TIA 

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If I were to try it without a puller.  I would heat up the prop hub with a propane/MAP torch and then use a brass drift and hammer on the back side of the hub (Leave the nut on the last couple of threads)

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50 minutes ago, electricjohn said:

Went over a submerged log yesterday at idle speed and in neutral, but it still put a slight curl on two of the blades. How hard is it to get prop off? I can model a puller out of a C-clamp if necessary.  19 seasons of crystal clear lake operation and prop has never been removed yet, if that matters. TIA 

yes that matters, first one i had on boat 4 years,  i used puller but had to tighten snd hammer once a day for 3 days

Edited by granddaddy55
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I fabbed a puller out of a C-clamp.  Have it on the prop and shaft now. Is the shaft tapered by any chance? I'll crank it down more in the morning.

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It's tapered where the prop sits.  Hit the side of the clamp.  Making the puller super tight just bends even a real puller.  The idea is to just put a little tension on it and vibrate it off.

Edited by oldjeep
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I had a devil of a time removing my stainless prop that had been on the shaft for about 15 years.  It didn't want to budge, so I made a puller that gave it no choice at all.  

ewPR4Eg.jpg

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5 minutes ago, justgary said:

I had a devil of a time removing my stainless prop that had been on the shaft for about 15 years.  It didn't want to budge, so I made a puller that gave it no choice at all.  

ewPR4Eg.jpg

Pretty McGyver-ish of you.  I recall seeing similar years ago:  http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=24654&title=inexpensive-and-easy-prop-puller

 

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1 minute ago, Eagleboy99 said:

Pretty McGyver-ish of you.  I recall seeing similar years ago:  http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=24654&title=inexpensive-and-easy-prop-puller

 

This type puller has been around the block before.  It was simple to draw one up for this size prop, then toss it on the mill and let it cut a few holes and slots.   On our boats, you don't get much room between the strut and prop, so it has to fit that gap. 

I sent a PDF plan to DocPhil and he built one also.  I believe I drew holes for three- and four-blade props for his.

No beating, no banging.  Just incrementally tighten the screws, and you suddenly get a very satisfying "piiiiiinnnnnngggg!" 

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15 minutes ago, justgary said:

I had a devil of a time removing my stainless prop that had been on the shaft for about 15 years.  It didn't want to budge, so I made a puller that gave it no choice at all.  

ewPR4Eg.jpg

That tool is bad a$$ ! Sorry for kinda swearing :)

Steve B.

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Nice tool.  I just hole sawed the front of a good C-clamp to fit around the prop shaft.  Worked fine and prop is off. And I still have a C-clamp. Now waiting for new prop (515) from UPS.

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My new prop is on the way, but in the meantime I took my old prop in for a repair estimate to keep as a spare.  Thought the price was to high for the minimal curl on two blades, so I took a rubber mallet to it on a wood block. Came out good, but just looking for thought from others who had props repaired, professionally or self repair.

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1 hour ago, electricjohn said:

My new prop is on the way, but in the meantime I took my old prop in for a repair estimate to keep as a spare.  Thought the price was to high for the minimal curl on two blades, so I took a rubber mallet to it on a wood block. Came out good, but just looking for thought from others who had props repaired, professionally or self repair.

It isn't rocket surgery.  Don't be afraid to use a real hammer on it if it still needs work.  You can use a second hammer to buck the blows if the wood block is too soft.  Just go slowly and with as little force as needed to move the metal.  If it looks uniform and like the other blades, give it a try.  If it vibrates, make tiny adjustments and try again.

You can put the prop upright on a bench and stand a sheet of paper next to it (with the edge of the paper touching the bench) and press the paper against the edge of the blade to make a pattern you can compare to the other blades.  That will show you fairly small deviations.

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Didn't want to go metal on metal, but I did use a ballpeen hammer to strike thin pieces of wood too. Prop is CNC machined and I didn't want to distort the machined surface.

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