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2016 23lsv powerwedge 2 intermittant


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Using the debug assist screen to control the powerwedge 2, the powerwedge 2 is very intermittent when the battery voltage (measured by voltmeter at the powerwedge circuit breaker terminal) goes below 12.6 Volts.  The powerwedge works normally when the voltage is above 13V.   In all cases I can hear the relays (in the wedge relay module) click when I push the debug up and down buttons.  At 12.6V the relays will click but the powerwedge motor will only engage at perhaps 1 out of 10 pushbutton pushes.  Above 13V the powerwedge motor will perform normally, responding to all pushbutton pushes.

Is this a relay contact issue, or is the powerwedge motor at fault?  Everything should work fine at 12.6V, but it doesn't.

This is a frustrating problem, as my battery voltage drops during the day when we are surfing with the audio system cranked up.  The engine does not produce enough electricity to keep the batteries fully charged when all the accessories are being used.  After a few rides the powerwedge stops working and fun time is over.  Poor performance for such an expensive boat!  Is there a way to increase electrical generation from the engine?

 

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I would check the battery connections, the connection at the battery power post on the port side stringer near the transmission, the breaker connection to the 6 pack relay, the relay harness plug, and the wedge harness plug.  See if there is a loose connection or if a pin has pulled loose from a harness plug.  Also check the main battery ground cable on the engine port side.

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I did unplug and check the two harness plugs.  I also had the digital voltmeter connected directly to the breaker connection (the one going to the 6 pack relay) and voltmeter was grounded directly to the engine main battery ground on the engine port side.  The voltmeter showed 12.6V during the period that the 6 pack relays were clicking and no response came from the wedge motor.  When the voltmeter shows 13.5V everything works correctly.

I'd like to check the voltage going directly to the wedge motor during relay actuation to see what is actually going to the wedge motor,  but I'd have to splice some wires to do so, and I'm reluctant to cut into wiring.  Are there any other suggestions?

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No.  Everything works fine when the battery voltage is above 13V.    If the battery discharges to 12.6V (also normal battery voltage)  the wedge will not work whether anything else is on or off.  If I turn everything off and run the engine to charge the battery to above 13V then the wedge will start working. 

Blasting the stereo will discharge the battery even if the engine is running.  That is why Surfing + radio blasting = wedge will soon stop working.

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What does an actual voltmeter read when the dash says it is 12.6?

Is this a factory stereo, or aftermarket?

Have you checked the alternator to make sure it doesn't have a blown diode (for example) that would reduce its output?

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It is the voltmeter that says 12.6.  The dash voltage is always different and doesn't seem to be accurate.

It is a factory stereo.

A reduced alternator output could be a real possibility.  How would I check for a blown diode?

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Don't cut the wiring harness, it could cause problems with warranty coverage.  It still sounds like a poor connection, but you can't rule out an internal failure in the power wedge or the harness wiring going directly to it.

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12 hours ago, jeffswift1 said:

It is the voltmeter that says 12.6.  The dash voltage is always different and doesn't seem to be accurate.

It is a factory stereo.

A reduced alternator output could be a real possibility.  How would I check for a blown diode?

The most definitive way to test the alternator rectifier is with an oscilloscope.  An alternator shop could do it for you, maybe a good auto parts store could, or perhaps you know someone with a scope.  Got any Ham Radio operator or electronics geek friends?

A clip-on ammeter would tell you that the output is enough to cover your load.

I also suspect that you have some issue with the wedge itself.  It would be worth the time to test the circuit in pieces starting from the wedge motor itself.  You can check the current draw of each piece as you apply a known 12V source (a good battery), then see if the current changes as you work your way through the harness to the relays.  It is possible that the wedge motor is just tired and could use a rebuild.  Sometimes just some new oil on the bearings will reduce the current draw due to a lighter load.

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Thank you everyone for your thoughtful suggestions.  I do happen to have an oscilloscope, and it may have helped lead me to the problem (I'll see over time).  Hopefully the image of the regulator output terminal is correctly inserted into the post. https://photos.app.goo.gl/zHixfdC7tcKmF3FF9  It showed a regular pattern of peaks at 14.5V.  I assume this indicates normal operation.  I then checked the lead going to the 6 pack relay during power wedge operation.  It showed a 1.6V drop, but the same operation tested at the battery lead only showed a 0.8V drop.  https://photos.app.goo.gl/asqhyyhKtyhDdbH98   Further searching showed the extra voltage drop occurred at the powerwedge fuse.  I removed, cleaned, and reinstalled the fuse connections and the new drop at the fuse output lead was reduced to  1.2V.

I now assume that under heavy use these fuse connections may have heated up (they are in the engine compartment) and possibly created additional resistance thus shutting down the powerwedge.  This theory will be tested over the summer.

There were 0.3V drops between the voltage seen across the regulator and the voltage seen across the battery (with everything in the boat turned on).  I assume this is a reasonable voltage drop under full load. 

Again, thank you all for your insight and suggestions.  I may have saved me from towing the boat 200 miles to wait in a 2 week line for service!!!

Perhaps to pay it forward a bit, some of you might be interested in a patent I secured a while ago.  It shows how to create a bow ballast system in in the 23LSV without any additional pumps, using the existing factory control system without modification.  It costs less than $20 (not including the bow bag), can be installed in an afternoon, and the bow bag can be inserted and removed in seconds.  The patent is at  https://patents.google.com/patent/US20180154988A1/en?q=swift&inventor=Jeffrey+Ralph+Swift&page=1.  You can use this for non-commercial purposes only!  I have been using it for years.  It makes a much better surf wake.

 

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59 minutes ago, jeffswift1 said:

It showed a regular pattern of peaks at 14.5V. 

Good job so far.  Continue to find, loosen, and clean connections.  All of them.  Even if they look good.

I think that your pattern is irregular, not regular.  Every sixth pulse drops out, probably indicating a blown diode since that phase (alternators are basically three-phase motors) is not getting rectified in that direction.  Perhaps you can compare your output to a car or another boat alternator.  It is a fairly simple task to remove the alternator, then disconnect the regulator and diode plate and test each diode with your ohm/continuity meter.

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OK.  I bought a new alternator, but am having difficulty taking the old one out.  I removed the alternator bolts, but the belt tension remained.  How do I loosen the belt so i can get the alternator out?

Thank you in advance.

 

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