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Making a list: '01 RLX Refresh


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Sometime this fall, once my garage cools off, I'm going to dig into a refresh project on the '01 RLX.  This is going to require removal of all upholstery behind the driver's seat.  While I'm at it, I plan to lift up the gas tank to get access under that.  So far, this is what's on the list...

  1. Drop rudder and shaft to replace strut bushing, which kinda started this whole train of thought.  I have a bit of play in this bearing, but it should be OK until fall.
  2. Replace fuel feed and return lines.
  3. Inspect and replace if necessary fuel vent line.
  4. Inspect blower tube routing and condition
  5. Replace steering cable (not really needed, but I don't plan on having easy access again anytime soon
  6. Replace soft-wall rubber hoses between flappers and mufflers (already did the down-tubes two weeks ago)
  7. Rip up carpet
  8. Bondo the low spots in the floor and sand it smooth (this is gonna suck)
  9. Replace the fuel sender (maybe)
  10. Fix the wiring for my transom pole light
  11. Coat the floor in Kiwi-grip
  12. Put down something else on the floor, maybe the fake deckadence stuff
  13. Snip off and seal up the pitot tubes (I have the pickups flipped up and out of the way already anyways)
  14. Replace rudder bushings and seals (or maybe the whole rudder to put on a tuneable one)
  15. PSS shaft seal (maybe, though my packing is pretty new)

What else am I missing?  I don't plan on cracking open the HDS box.  I'm not getting any leaking so I'm leaving well enough alone there.  On the flooring, I'm not sure what to do with the removable hatch panel and the cover for the in-floor cooler.  Keeping the floor dry in the summer won't be an issue, but I use my boat in winter, and it can take a couple days in the garage to dry out.  My garage gets smelly when that's happening.

Edited by UWSkier
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I think I would pull the strut only to change the bushing, but I realize that you also want to pull the rudder anyway.  The darned bushings are so hard to get out, even on a bench.  Yes, you would have to open the HDS, but the lid isn't the part that leaks, it's where the box is glassed to the hull.

Good idea on changing the fuel vent hose.  I also changed the filler hose as well, but it was hard to get it to release from the filler cap fitting.  Once you get it to turn, it's all yours.  That allowed me to remove the tank and flush out the little crumbs and gunk in the bottom.

I take it you aren't the original owner, otherwise you would just have Malibu cover the floor dips under the hull warranty.

 

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I bought a Strutpro bearing press if you want to try that first...I just ask for a couple dollars and shipping covered both ways because it’s a pretty expensive tool...

Edited by RedWakesetterVLX
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11 minutes ago, RedWakesetterVLX said:

I bought a Strutpro bearing press if you want to try that first...I just ask for a couple dollars and shipping covered both ways because it’s a pretty expensive tool...

I saw that tool but I'm not sure how you get a two piece bearing kit on without pulling the shaft out? 

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2 hours ago, UWSkier said:

Sometime this fall, once my garage cools off, I'm going to dig into a refresh project on the '01 RLX.  This is going to require removal of all upholstery behind the driver's seat.  While I'm at it, I plan to lift up the gas tank to get access under that.  So far, this is what's on the list...

  1. Drop rudder and shaft to replace strut bushing, which kinda started this whole train of thought.  I have a bit of play in this bearing, but it should be OK until fall.
  2. Replace fuel feed and return lines.
  3. Inspect and replace if necessary fuel vent line.
  4. Inspect blower tube routing and condition
  5. Replace steering cable (not really needed, but I don't plan on having easy access again anytime soon
  6. Replace soft-wall rubber hoses between flappers and mufflers (already did the down-tubes two weeks ago)
  7. Rip up carpet
  8. Bondo the low spots in the floor and sand it smooth (this is gonna suck)
  9. Replace the fuel sender (maybe)
  10. Fix the wiring for my transom pole light
  11. Coat the floor in Kiwi-grip
  12. Put down something else on the floor, maybe the fake deckadence stuff
  13. Snip off and seal up the pitot tubes (I have the pickups flipped up and out of the way already anyways)
  14. Replace rudder bushings and seals (or maybe the whole rudder to put on a tuneable one)
  15. PSS shaft seal (maybe, though my packing is pretty new)

What else am I missing?  I don't plan on cracking open the HDS box.  I'm not getting any leaking so I'm leaving well enough alone there.  On the flooring, I'm not sure what to do with the removable hatch panel and the cover for the in-floor cooler.  Keeping the floor dry in the summer won't be an issue, but I use my boat in winter, and it can take a couple days in the garage to dry out.  My garage gets smelly when that's happening.

I might like to purchase your old rudder

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3 minutes ago, Bozboat said:

I might like to purchase your old rudder

I'll let you know if I end up replacing it.  I might be able to accomplish my goal with the angle grinder.  I want a bit more rudder torque than I have now. 

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1 hour ago, UWSkier said:

I saw that tool but I'm not sure how you get a two piece bearing kit on without pulling the shaft out? 

I’ll let you know how it goes when I do mine. 

Edited by RedWakesetterVLX
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43 minutes ago, RedWakesetterVLX said:

I’ll let you know how it goes when I do mine. 

Think that works for the single piece bearing only, unless you can use the colletts to set the forward bearing in from behind 

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11 minutes ago, justgary said:

If you already have vesconite bearings, they should push out and in fairly easily. 

Don't think so. Probably the original single piece bearing. 

IMG_20200614_135244.jpg

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9 hours ago, UWSkier said:

Don't think so. Probably the original single piece bearing. 

IMG_20200614_135244.jpg

That bushing looks pretty good to me.  I'm not sure I would change it yet.

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34 minutes ago, justgary said:

That bushing looks pretty good to me.  I'm not sure I would change it yet.

There is a fair bit of slop in it. Probably has about 1/64th of slop, maybe a bit more. Enough to see on video. It'll get through this year but I get this clunking sound when turning full starboard at idle to fetch a downed skier. Pretty sure this is the source as the rudder is good and tight. 

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On 6/14/2020 at 11:08 PM, UWSkier said:

Think that works for the single piece bearing only, unless you can use the colletts to set the forward bearing in from behind 

You press the forward bearing in from behind and then the aft bearing will push the forward one in place. Same way you would do it with the shaft out using a threaded rod and large washers.  The collets are only used to press out.  

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19 hours ago, RedWakesetterVLX said:

You press the forward bearing in from behind and then the aft bearing will push the forward one in place. Same way you would do it with the shaft out using a threaded rod and large washers.  The collets are only used to press out.  

If you can push them both in from behind, then I think the strut-pro may be the way to go.  When are you doing yours so I can learn from your mistakes, err, expertise? :)

 

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5 hours ago, UWSkier said:

If you can push them both in from behind, then I think the strut-pro may be the way to go.  When are you doing yours so I can learn from your mistakes, err, expertise? :)

 

I’m not sure.  Maybe in a few weeks or later.  This weekend the trailer started giving me a bunch more slop then normal so I’ve got to dig into the brakes/master cylinder.  🙄 it’s always something...

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