Strut/cutlass bearing replacement

[RedWakesetterVLX]

I notice a small rubber piece from my rear strut bearing is starting to back out.  I’m pretty confident it’s the original strut and bearing and odds are the rubber just finally broke free from the bearing shell (20 years old.)

I’ve researched this quite a bit and have decided to purchase the Strutpro bearing press tool to complete the job.  It’s pricey, especially for hopefully a one time use but I had to compromise.  
 

https://strutpro.com/product/wakeboard-ski-boat-kit-1-38-x-1-18-x-8/

 

Originally I was going to jack the trailer, drop the rudder, pull the shaft then cut the old bearings out and install new bearings.  Reinstall and check engine alignment.  Unfortunately I don’t have a decent work area for this and time is something to consider as well. 

Once all the parts come in I’ll post up how the job went with some pics.  If all goes well and another crew wants/needs to change their strut bearings out I’m willing possibly loan it out for a small fee to help me recover some of the initial cost.  More to follow. 
 

On a side note...I’ve heard these engines tend to settle over the years.  I checked the alignment and I can’t get a .0015 feeler gauge at any part of the shaft coupler and Vdrive flange . This probably isn’t accurate because I believe you should remove the shaft coupler then reattached then check for alignment correct? This after the new bearings are in.  Any thoughts? 

[formulaben]

23 minutes ago, RedWakesetterVLX said:

If all goes well and another crew wants/needs to change their strut bearings out I’m willing possibly loan it out for a small fee to help me recover some of the initial cost.  More to follow. 

Funny, I was thinking of the same thing some time ago.  I would probably be in for that for sure.

[RedWakesetterVLX]

14 minutes ago, formulaben said:

Funny, I was thinking of the same thing some time ago.  I would probably be in for that for sure.

👍 I’ll let you know how it turns out. 

[RedWakesetterVLX]

To follow up on my engine alignment question I think before I do anything I’m going to pull the shaft packing hose from the shaft log and see if the shaft is centered.  If it looks good I’m going to proceed with the Strutpro tool...if it’s low and my bell housing clearance looks low I guess I have no choice but the pull and realign.   I probably should have done this before I bought the tool! 🤦‍♂️😂

Edited June 10, 2020 by RedWakesetterVLX

[justgary]

It will be interesting to see if that tool has enough meat to budge the original bushing.  I had to saw through my bushing from the inside and peel it away with a small chisel to get it out.

No need to pull the rudder to remove the strut, it will pass by easily.  You can also get a big start on your alignment when you replace the strut by letting the shaft take its natural position and putting the strut in that place.  The strut bolts allow enough motion.

 

[RedWakesetterVLX]

6 minutes ago, justgary said:

It will be interesting to see if that tool has enough meat to budge the original bushing.  I had to saw through my bushing from the inside and peel it away with a small chisel to get it out.

No need to pull the rudder to remove the strut, it will pass by easily.  You can also get a big start on your alignment when you replace the strut by letting the shaft take its natural position and putting the strut in that place.  The strut bolts allow enough motion.

 

Thanks Gary.  I read your thread a few times.  If the tool doesn’t work I’m going to just cut them out with the strut still attached to the hull.  I know it’s debatable to pull the strut vs dropping rudder and leaving strut on.  Watching Ron Tanis’s YT video on the bushing removal it looks pretty straight forward with strut in place. Hopefully I won’t have to do that though. 

[justgary]

13 hours ago, RedWakesetterVLX said:

Thanks Gary.  I read your thread a few times.  If the tool doesn’t work I’m going to just cut them out with the strut still attached to the hull.  I know it’s debatable to pull the strut vs dropping rudder and leaving strut on.  Watching Ron Tanis’s YT video on the bushing removal it looks pretty straight forward with strut in place. Hopefully I won’t have to do that though. 

The side of the strut has locations for two set screws that hold the bushing.  Your strut may or may not have the screws in place, but be sure to check before you start trying to get the thing out.  It will seem to you like the thing is screwed and glued in place, but I think that it just fits well and galvanically bonds itself to the strut over time.

Like I said, I definitely want to hear if the tool can do it.  Replace the bushing with Vesconite.  You will have to use the set screws to hold those in, but you won't need to hurt yourself to get them out again if you should be lucky enough to wear them out.

[formulaben]

5 hours ago, justgary said:

...if you should be lucky enough to wear them out.

I like the way you think.