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2011 Wakesetter New JL Audio System Install


jschultzuw

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In the process of installing a new JL Audio system in our Wakesetter.  With a new MM100 tuner I need to run sets of rca cables from under the dash to the storage area where the amps are located.  What's the easiest/correct way to gain access for running the new cables.  I removed the sub at the drivers feet hoping that would get me access but it is sealed. I removed the bow cushions and plastic board that sits on top of the front ballast tank.  I can see wires down in between the rear bottom of the ballast tank and the carpeted "toe kick", I'm thinking that toe kick should come out?  From there I am struggling with understanding how to gain access to under the dash. Any help is appreciated.

Thanks,

Jason

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I run mine around the bow. You don’t need to pull the sub out. I use a golf driver handle with the cables tied to the end of it to shove it to the front under the speakers to grab the cable. Same thing on the port side 

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1 hour ago, jschultzuw said:

In the process of installing a new JL Audio system in our Wakesetter.  With a new MM100 tuner I need to run sets of rca cables from under the dash to the storage area where the amps are located.  What's the easiest/correct way to gain access for running the new cables.  I removed the sub at the drivers feet hoping that would get me access but it is sealed. I removed the bow cushions and plastic board that sits on top of the front ballast tank.  I can see wires down in between the rear bottom of the ballast tank and the carpeted "toe kick", I'm thinking that toe kick should come out?  From there I am struggling with understanding how to gain access to under the dash. Any help is appreciated.

Thanks,

Jason

That walkway board in front of your front ballast needs to come out. The hardest part is locating the 2 screws holding it down. When you remove the bow cushions you should be able to feel around under the fiberglass lip to see where those screws come through and then just dig around in the carpet above them to find the head. Once I removed mine, I put ss finishing washers on them before putting them back in so they are easy to spot in the future. The bow cushions cover them anyway so the washers should have been there from the factory in my opinion. Once you remove that piece, you'll clearly see where all the factory wiring is run and fishing it through is a breeze. You can go all the way around the bow but that's just making your RCA's longer than they need to be and I've always been told to keep them as short as possible to minimize noise....and cost. Let me know if you need any pics of what I'm talking about. Good luck!

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and Brichter is right, the sub or even the kick panel under the helm don't need to come out for this but if you've already removed them then you'll have all the access you need. If you route everything in front of the front ballast you'll see where all the factory wires are going from the helm to that spot and if you have an extra set up hands you can reach far enough with the wires from the sub kick panel to that spot and you can have someone in the bow grab them from the other side of the hole. Then reverse this process on the observer compartment side. You basically just want to follow all the factory wiring that goes from the helm to that compartment. Taping them to a coat hanger can make it easier. You're on the right path though.

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I ran mine through the bow. It was a b and took me forever. Only problem with the MM100 is the volume knob is right by the steering wheel and I keep running my finger across it when I turn the steering wheel.   My wife hates it and told me I should have gotten the wet sounds headunit since the volume knob is on the opposite side.  I did tilt the wheel down a little and it seems to help. 

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Edited by dwc032
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