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SPN 66022 FMI 5. HELP!


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I am having a challenge with my 2012 VTX with the L96 engine. Code first appeared as a cylinder 5 misfire with a terrible rotten egg smell. Replaced all plugs and the SPN 65595 FMI:7 is now Inactive but SPN 66022 FMI: 5 stays active and won’t go away. This is bank 2 sensor 2..spotters side after the Cat, current below normal or open circuit. I cleaned the sensors and have switched all 4 of them all around but the code does not change from 66022. I don’t have access to any software so I can’t did much deeper without a long 4 hr ride. Any ideas would be appreciated. Anyone near north central Mass or south central NH with the software and a desire to help out a fellow Planker please let me know!

Any help is appreciated. Happy riding to all.

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That’s not the answer I want!! But it is a thought I’ve had. I have looked inside the converter with a camera and both sides look similar, none of the honeycomb looks cooked or melted. Any ideas how to test anthem Cat?

Thanks

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What might some symptoms be of a failed Cat? The Cat/manifold doesn’t seem to be any hotter or cooler than the other side....no smells...boat seems to run ok although I haven’t pushed it since the code appeared. 
Thanks again for all input.

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ahopkinsVTX
18 minutes ago, Planker said:

What might some symptoms be of a failed Cat? The Cat/manifold doesn’t seem to be any hotter or cooler than the other side....no smells...boat seems to run ok although I haven’t pushed it since the code appeared. 
Thanks again for all input.

Well the cats are performing a chemical reaction with the exhaust. So your misfire could have been sending unburned fuel into the exhaust. The fuel reacting with the cats could have been that rotten egg smell, which could have stripped/damaged the coating on the cats which in turn would not treat the exhaust correctly and then it would throw errors on sensor readings. 

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I understand your logic, but I really hope it’s something else as the Cats are $2000 per side for this engine. Does anyone know how to determine if a Cat is fried or still functioning?

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If you swapped the sensors to the other bank and still get the same DTC code you may have two faulty sensors, a wiring or connector issue at the plug for that sensor, or an internal failure in the ECM.

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Thanks for the feedback. Additional testing with a multimeter showed the O2 sensors seemed OK but a strange low voltage coming from the O2 sensor plug, female/boat side. The top left connection showed no voltage on the side of the boat not throwing a code but a -1 to -3 volts on the side identified by the code. I am thinking this must be at least part of the issue. The challenge is to properly identify the voltage irregularity and its cause without any scan tools.

I will keep plugging along, any new ideas please throw them at me.

Thanks

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  • 1 year later...

Any update on this issue?  I unplugged my O2 sensors on the exhaust dumps to replace the gaskets and now have this code coming up every 5 min.

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10 hours ago, Sharpag01 said:

Any update on this issue?  I unplugged my O2 sensors on the exhaust dumps to replace the gaskets and now have this code coming up every 5 min.

Did the new gaskets seal?  You may need to check to make sure you didn't get something wrong.

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10 hours ago, Sharpag01 said:

Any update on this issue?  I unplugged my O2 sensors on the exhaust dumps to replace the gaskets and now have this code coming up every 5 min.

Did you run the engine with them unplugged at all?

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I didn't run the engine with bank B sensor 2 unplugged but I did turn the ignition on.  Wondering if it just needs the 3 heat cycles to clear?

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I checked the resistance of the o2 sensor heater and it read good within limits in the manual.  Im going to swap port and stb sensors to see if the issue follows.  Waiting on my o2 sensor socket to arrive.  Any other pointers?

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ahopkinsVTX
6 hours ago, Sharpag01 said:

I checked the resistance of the o2 sensor heater and it read good within limits in the manual.  Im going to swap port and stb sensors to see if the issue follows.  Waiting on my o2 sensor socket to arrive.  Any other pointers?

Did you visually inspect the catalysts while the sensors were out?

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The catalyst looked good to me no issues visually, I checked it with the exhaust elbows off.  I didn’t have this issue prior to unplugging the sensor either.  If I wouldn’t have turned the ignition on with it unplugged I would probably ok, maybe I am overreacting and it will clear but our last time on the water the alarm kept going off.

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ahopkinsVTX
28 minutes ago, Sharpag01 said:

The catalyst looked good to me no issues visually, I checked it with the exhaust elbows off.  I didn’t have this issue prior to unplugging the sensor either.  If I wouldn’t have turned the ignition on with it unplugged I would probably ok, maybe I am overreacting and it will clear but our last time on the water the alarm kept going off.

OH, you maybe ok then. It will take 3 full heat to cooldown cycles to clear on its own. If it will clear on its own. May need to have it cleared.

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  • 2 weeks later...

After a long 3 day weekend at the lake, the alarm finally went away.  Was about to schedule a visit to the dealer to have them clear the code.  Awesome!

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