Overhauling 2019 25LSV Stereo

[MLA]

Rather then cut the harness. De-pin the terminal from the connector, source a mating terminal, crimp a short length of wire to it, push it on the boat side harness terminal that was removed from the OEM connector, cover with a piece of heat shrink. 

If you ever need to go back to the OEM amps, cut the heat shrink off, insert terminals back into the OEM connector and plug back into the OEM amp. Non-invasive and not expensive.. Same can be done with the audio input connectors to RCA. 

[Slurpee]

7 hours ago, Brandonloos21 said:

Doing a very similar setup on our newly ordered Bu. How did you go from the speaker wire connector (that is originally in the dsp amp) to just raw speaker wire to hook into the sdx4 (I presume that’s the amp powering cabins) I ordered the exile audio harnesses already, so I understand how I’m going from harness to RCAS, just confused on speaker wire portion.

Hah. Funny story. The day I put a down payment on my 2019 after looking at it on the lot I asked them to pull the amp and give it to me. I wanted to put it in my 2016 so I could move those amps or sell them. I expected them to unplug everything and give me a box.  Instead they just cable cut everything several inches back from the connector. 

That worked out rather well because I just spliced wires and connectors in where they belonged. But boy did it freak out the stereo shop when they took the boat by during prep to have the dealer standard floor package removed! They thought a theft occurred. Somewhere out there is a 2016 22VLX with a DSP amp mounted before it’s time.

I did run all new thicker speaker wires everywhere though but the bow. And I used the same factory specified connectors for everything. 

Edited January 20, 2021 by Slurpee

[Slurpee]

10 minutes ago, MLA said:

Rather then cut the harness. De-pin the terminal from the connector, source a mating terminal, crimp a short length of wire to it, push it on the boat side harness terminal that was removed from the OEM connector, cover with a piece of heat shrink. 

If you ever need to go back to the OEM amps, cut the heat shrink off, insert terminals back into the OEM connector and plug back into the OEM amp. Non-invasive and not expensive.. Same can be done with the audio input connectors to RCA. 

I’ve thought about that before. I like it!  Lol. It’d be my luck I’d forget where the housings were years later though. I’d probably bag them and screw the bag to the back of the amp board. Then forget I did that. 

[Brandonloos21]

2 hours ago, MLA said:

Rather then cut the harness. De-pin the terminal from the connector, source a mating terminal, crimp a short length of wire to it, push it on the boat side harness terminal that was removed from the OEM connector, cover with a piece of heat shrink. 

If you ever need to go back to the OEM amps, cut the heat shrink off, insert terminals back into the OEM connector and plug back into the OEM amp. Non-invasive and not expensive.. Same can be done with the audio input connectors to RCA. 

Perhaps I could just find the other version of that connector (female I suppose) and make my

own with speaker wire coming out? Do you happen to know what version the harness is?

[MLA]

12 minutes ago, Brandonloos21 said:

Perhaps I could just find the other version of that connector (female I suppose) and make my

own with speaker wire coming out? Do you happen to know what version the harness is?

From my research, a standard mating connector body is not produced by the connector manufacturer. They only offer the bulkhead body, which is whats mounted to the amp chassis. This is why you see the aftermarket RCA conversion setups with a 3D printed "box" on the back instead of a weather-sealed connector with pigtails. *NOTE* it has been quite a while since I looked into, as I have no need. 

[Brandonloos21]

2 hours ago, MLA said:

From my research, a standard mating connector body is not produced by the connector manufacturer. They only offer the bulkhead body, which is whats mounted to the amp chassis. This is why you see the aftermarket RCA conversion setups with a 3D printed "box" on the back instead of a weather-sealed connector with pigtails. *NOTE* it has been quite a while since I looked into, as I have no need. 

So you were reccominging pulling them, and putting the pins into them, then perhaps heat sealing them?

[Brandonloos21]

5 hours ago, Slurpee said:

Hah. Funny story. The day I put a down payment on my 2019 after looking at it on the lot I asked them to pull the amp and give it to me. I wanted to put it in my 2016 so I could move those amps or sell them. I expected them to unplug everything and give me a box.  Instead they just cable cut everything several inches back from the connector. 

That worked out rather well because I just spliced wires and connectors in where they belonged. But boy did it freak out the stereo shop when they took the boat by during prep to have the dealer standard floor package removed! They thought a theft occurred. Somewhere out there is a 2016 22VLX with a DSP amp mounted before it’s time.

I did run all new thicker speaker wires everywhere though but the bow. And I used the same factory specified connectors for everything. 

For the bow speakers, how did you hook them up to the amp, that’s most likely what I will do with all of them!

[Slurpee]

3 minutes ago, Brandonloos21 said:

For the bow speakers, how did you hook them up to the amp, that’s most likely what I will do with all of them!

I cut the wires and crimped some connectors on to match up with my amp's connectors.  I used the JL Mvi amps and they have pigtails coming off to Deutsch Connectors.  I sourced the mating housings and pins for all of the speakers, not just the bow.  I kept up that theme for connecting the wetsounds SDX2 amps to the tower speakers and subs.  At the speakers there are some different connectors that I also sourced the mates for so I could connect up cleanly when I ran my own wires to the other speakers.  Those were standard Aptiv automotive weatherseal connectors.

[Brandonloos21]

4 minutes ago, Slurpee said:

I cut the wires and crimped some connectors on to match up with my amp's connectors.  I used the JL Mvi amps and they have pigtails coming off to Deutsch Connectors.  I sourced the mating housings and pins for all of the speakers, not just the bow.  I kept up that theme for connecting the wetsounds SDX2 amps to the tower speakers and subs.  At the speakers there are some different connectors that I also sourced the mates for so I could connect up cleanly when I ran my own wires to the other speakers.  Those were standard Aptiv automotive weatherseal connectors.

Oh perfect. I’m going to need to get my hands on it in order to see exactly what route I’m going. I have ordered an sdx4 for the cabin speakers, running a pair per channel. I know on our old boat, they had the cabin speakers in parallel. Ideally I’d love to have raw speaker wire to be able to go straight into the amp, but it’s seeming that I will have to do some modification to get there.. lol

[Slurpee]

I wanted to be able to pull the whole amp rack easily since I am always tinkering with the sound.  Raw wires into barrier terminals is a PITA to work with.  It's also a really easy way to mess up your sound and cross wire things or get polarities backwards or the wrong speakers in the wrong outputs.  I like to touch those barrier terminals on the amps ONCE.

[Brandonloos21]

On 1/20/2021 at 2:32 PM, Slurpee said:

I wanted to be able to pull the whole amp rack easily since I am always tinkering with the sound.  Raw wires into barrier terminals is a PITA to work with.  It's also a really easy way to mess up your sound and cross wire things or get polarities backwards or the wrong speakers in the wrong outputs.  I like to touch those barrier terminals on the amps ONCE.

I figured you if anyone.. do you happen to know exactly the model which malibu uses for the 8” cabin speakers? How many watts do you give them? Thanks 

[Slurpee]

Well. I pulled one like this one out of my boat. Wet Sounds SD4 with OEM bulkheads and a dsp front end. I have no idea how much power was sent to the speakers from it.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Malibu-Boats-Wet-Sounds-4-Channel-Marine-Amplifier-SYN-DX4-DSP-OE-/114570697260?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292

Or did you mean the speakers? Revo8s I believe. I have 200W rated channels to them. But I like running my amps efficiently somewhere around 2/3 their rating. That’s about the knee of the amps power efficiency generally. I like keeping them running efficient and cooler. 

Edited January 28, 2021 by Slurpee

[Brandonloos21]

8 hours ago, Slurpee said:

Well. I pulled one like this one out of my boat. Wet Sounds SD4 with OEM bulkheads and a dsp front end. I have no idea how much power was sent to the speakers from it.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Malibu-Boats-Wet-Sounds-4-Channel-Marine-Amplifier-SYN-DX4-DSP-OE-/114570697260?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292

Or did you mean the speakers? Revo8s I believe. I have 200W rated channels to them. But I like running my amps efficiently somewhere around 2/3 their rating. That’s about the knee of the amps power efficiency generally. I like keeping them running efficient and cooler. 

Yes speakers I was talking about. I was just hoping malibu didnt put recon coaxials in 170k boats.