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Overhauling 2019 25LSV Stereo


Slurpee

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20 hours ago, Slurpee said:

So after a long trip up river with friends last weekend in 100F+ heat I discovered the SDX2 could overheat and shutdown till cycled. Yes, shoving purses and towels Up against the amp board was the likely straw that broke the camels back.

But I didn’t like that they’d do it when playing nothing while we floated (ie no air flow anywhere). And I wanted to do something to keep luggage off the amps. 

 And I’m bored this weekend. So behold. I’m almost done. Just to have to get the wiring (and maybe LEDs) done. Happily that part is inside in the A/C. Not the garage!
 

 

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Are all the fans pulling air up and out of the box ? 

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10 minutes ago, asnowman said:

Are all the fans pulling air up and out of the box ? 

Oh yes.  It's a pull configuration.  Five 80mm Noctua Redux fans running at 1800rpm.  Pretty quiet.  Can't hear them with the hatches closed.  Frankly can barely hear them with the hatch open.

It's definitely keeping the amps cooler.  Before, they got very hot to touch.  Now they're only climbing about 20C above ambient after running them really hard for 10 minutes.  Not a bad use for my scrap pile if I do say so myself.  Only had to spend $50 on the fans.

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4 hours ago, timmypop said:

Very cool. Is it open on the far side so the fans draw air across the amps and out the top?

It’s open on the bottom. Think of a chemical booth hood. Or maybe a hearth and chimney. 

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On 7/16/2020 at 8:04 AM, Slurpee said:

It’s open on the bottom. Think of a chemical booth hood. Or maybe a hearth and chimney. 

If heat rises, why would you not want to make some openings on the top?  I am so expecting a very "over my head" response from you :)

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11 minutes ago, Murphy8166 said:

If heat rises, why would you not want to make some openings on the top?  I am so expecting a very "over my head" response from you :)

Lol. It is open on top. Note the fans?  The fans pull air through the chute and exhaust it after it has cooled the amps.

Just putting a hood over the amps that is open on top and bottom will naturally bring cool air in and make airflow. Because like you said heat rises. And it has to be replaced by new presumably cooler air from below. The exhaust fans speed up that process. 

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  • 3 weeks later...
13 hours ago, gary_tenison said:

Slurp...what did you do to tune this thing? Looks like an awesome job.

Thanks Gary.

Kind of the normal. 

I used an oscilloscope to make sure all the signals running around had the same amplitudes.  Since I was mono'ing and splitting signals in the DSP mixer that changed amplitudes by +/- 6dB. 

Also, since I was passing preamp signals back and forth between the DSPs I had to add delays in the right spots to cancel out the propogation delay through the electronics.  Even though some were "pass-throughs" that's not instantaneous in a DSP system like it is in an analog system.  Nipping and tucking a millisecond here and there had all the sound going to the speakers simultaneously.

Then I added all the measurements into the DSP for time delays centered on "MY" - the driver's - ears.  LOL.  I bought it so I get the best tune. :)

Next I used the scope to watch the waveforms going to the speakers looking for distortion on real music so I could get the gains set at maximum.  After I had the maximum gains I started turning them down hear and there to get the balance I want.  Mostly that meant that the pilot speakers stayed near maximum.  Also since I was so close to the subs I let the crossovers go a bit higher so I could have some more more maximum to work with.  The bow and rearmost speakers got turned down the most.  And the middle cabin speakers were somewhere in between.  This helped set the stage for the music to be towards the front of the boat.  Especially for the driver. :)  Used the RTA and Pinknoise function in REW for that.

Subs are subs.  Same process.  Except I used the DSP to do some EQ'ing to get the tune I wanted.  Used REW for that with a calibrated microphone. They're pretty loud and fun to monkey with using a DSP.

Last was going out on the lake and cruising around with the wife.  We played music and adjusted the shelf filters on the low and high end till I had it to her liking.  I did a couple of cuts and boosts in the EQ as well on some speakers.

Next are the tower speakers.  They are plenty loud right now, but too bright.  I'm off this week for a Staycation so I'll play with them this week.

Edited by Slurpee
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1 hour ago, boardjnky4 said:

which oscilloscope are you using?

I use a Tektronix TDS3104. I have it for work in my home lab. I use regular Tek Probes for watching the Preamps. But I have some isolated high voltage probes for looking at the speakers directly. 

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22 minutes ago, Slurpee said:

I use a Tektronix TDS3104. I have it for work in my home lab. I use regular Tek Probes for watching the Preamps. But I have some isolated high voltage probes for looking at the speakers directly. 

A bit rich for my blood. Any advice for someone looking for something cheap?

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 8/3/2020 at 12:23 PM, boardjnky4 said:

A bit rich for my blood. Any advice for someone looking for something cheap?

I forgot all about something Gary did. Read his thread here. He used a distortion analyzer.  
 

 

 

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On ‎7‎/‎13‎/‎2020 at 10:38 AM, Slurpee said:

Installed. Nice airflow!

 

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THAT COOLING SYSTEM IS INCREDIBLE!!! The shroud definitely multiplies the effectiveness. This whole system is incredible, especially with all the nano details in your set-up and tune.

Btw, I use AC INFINITY cooling fans in several of my home systems. They're cool.  

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  • 4 weeks later...

So some developments. The HO box needs love. I had it mid storage and it eventually settled with one corner down on the floor. And some water got on it. MDF and water are a bad mix. 

The fix was removing the bad MDF which was fortunately in a cosmetic location. Then glass and bondo and a new coat of Duratex. 

Then I permanently (I hope) addressed the problem by putting mounting feet under the box so it’d stay up off the floor and level. In that setup it only fits all the way to rear is the port under seat storage. Which actually works out better than before. I dropped a 50lb bag on top to make sure it never moves, and then took some 1lb MLV and made a vestibule that fits over it, down the back and sides and has a top lip several inches past the driver. Water isn’t going to get at it anymore from any side unless I totally swamp the boat. I have other problems then. Lol. 
 

 

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  • 1 month later...
On 6/8/2020 at 7:39 PM, Slurpee said:

Out with the old. In with the new. Now I’m finally beginning to smile!
 

 

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Looks great. Can you share details on the adapter ate you used? I would like to do the same.

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9 minutes ago, arctic4wd said:

Looks great. Can you share details on the adapter ate you used? I would like to do the same.

Sure. Send me your email via PM and I’ll send you the step files and drawings for CNC. You can modify as you see fit. I did it in Fusion 360. 

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4 hours ago, Slurpee said:

Sure. Send me your email via PM and I’ll send you the step files and drawings for CNC. You can modify as you see fit. I did it in Fusion 360. 

Pm sent with my email. Let me know if you dont get it, maybe i typed something wrong.

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20 hours ago, arctic4wd said:

Looks great. Can you share details on the adapter ate you used? I would like to do the same.

So you've removed the wake control's and mainly just use the dash?

How come you picked that unit over the Wetsounds? the system doesn't freak out by removing the sound control on the right?

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33 minutes ago, Try2paz said:

So you've removed the wake control's and mainly just use the dash?

How come you picked that unit over the Wetsounds? the system doesn't freak out by removing the sound control on the right?

I wanted Apple Airplay, OTA updates to the headunit and transom remote over my phone, and a few other trivial things the Wetsounds doesn't do.  The wetsounds and JL headunits both are really nice though. No, the OEM black box and stuff are still there.  Just another input into my custom DSP system.  I just don't ever turn it on or bother with it.

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  • 3 weeks later...
22 minutes ago, tuandang79 said:

Wow Nice build!    how load are the fans when they are all running?

Thanks. You have to put your ears up to them to hear. They’re good fans. 

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  • 2 months later...
On 6/6/2020 at 5:09 PM, Slurpee said:

Some more pictures. The amp board is done. Cables for cabin and subs are all crimped and labeled and ready to run. Next is to go start sweating outside and fish the tower speakers cables. Booo

 

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Doing a very similar setup on our newly ordered Bu. How did you go from the speaker wire connector (that is originally in the dsp amp) to just raw speaker wire to hook into the sdx4 (I presume that’s the amp powering cabins) I ordered the exile audio harnesses already, so I understand how I’m going from harness to RCAS, just confused on speaker wire portion.

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I cut and stripped the wires to insert the speaker wires in to the new WS amp. I left enough wire on the original harness head to be able to solder it back together if I wanted to. I also made sure to mark the orientation of the wires in relation to the factory head for later reference and to make sure the wires were inserted correctly into the new amp as well.

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